Jump to content
Wingnut

Winterization

Recommended Posts

http://s526.photobucket.com/user/wingnutmfs/library/Winterization%20%20%20Merc%20496256%20SSX?sort=3&page=1

Based on the number of E-mails I've been getting it would seem like it must be Winterization time for many. Big slap in the face for us in the Northeast who had a really cool summer, but hopefully the attached photos may reduce some traffic in the old e-mail in box.

W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is really great! Invaluable information and really excellent the way you diagramed that step by step.

Now can you please do that for a Volvo Penta 8.1Gi? :D Just kidding.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is really great! Invaluable information and really excellent the way you diagramed that step by step.

Now can you please do that for a Volvo Penta 8.1Gi? :D Just kidding.

No Need. Volvo's never make it past the first season so no need to winterize... (Kidding more)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Wing!

Question for you -

I contacted you many years ago about using Mobil 1 15W-50 Extended Performance, which I know you were using and recommended. They stopped producing it and I purchased enough for 5 years worth of 'end of season' oil changes. Last fall, I used the last of it. It just so happens that I went to AutoZone today and picked up Mobil 1 15W-50 (standard) and wondered if I should use it, or the Mercruiser oil that they came out with a few years ago. Back then, you said you were going to switch to the Mercruiser oil, but in the pics I see the standard M1 15W-50. Admittedly, I haven't been on this site in several years, but logged in tonight to see about whether the standard M1 version would be okay to use. Yours was one of the first posts I saw.

Can I assume you had a change of heart about the Mercruiser oil, or did you feel the standard M1 15W-50 was just fine to use?

Thanks in advance!

Pete

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use Merc 20w-40 Synth recommended oil for 75 bucks for a big jug (forgot the capacity). That gives me the ultimate peace of mind.

Question to Wing - (thanks for posting the pics! wish every configuration was the same.... but it's not): would you use an electric pump to push the pink AF to the muffs or just use the gravity and let the drive suck it up to the engine? It's not clear from your pics. I've seen some dudes use a battery and a small pump to help with the process. I was warned Bravo drives are much more sensitive to this issue (compared to Alpha drives which suck water like crazy on their own) so would a pump be a better option - since the gravity only produces a tiny fraction of a typical garden hose's pressure?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use Merc 20w-40 Synth recommended oil for 75 bucks for a big jug (forgot the capacity). That gives me the ultimate peace of mind.

Question to Wing - (thanks for posting the pics! wish every configuration was the same.... but it's not): would you use an electric pump to push the pink AF to the muffs or just use the gravity and let the drive suck it up to the engine? It's not clear from your pics. I've seen some dudes use a battery and a small pump to help with the process. I was warned Bravo drives are much more sensitive to this issue (compared to Alpha drives which suck water like crazy on their own) so would a pump be a better option - since the gravity only produces a tiny fraction of a typical garden hose's pressure?

I let the Bravo's suck in the pink stuff, but I do elevate the 5 gallon container up on to the swim platform and establish a primed siphon by flooding the suction hose all the way to the muff. Clear hose makes it easy to scan for air, and Bravo sucks up four gallons in about 15 seconds at idle. I have been using standard 15w-50 Mobil One since they stopped making the Extended Performance. W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have a female hose connection on the stern for freshwater flushing can you introduce the antifreeze there in lieu of using muffs? If you do that do you have to plug the ports on the outdrive to create suction? Maybe put tape over them?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I let the Bravo's suck in the pink stuff, but I do elevate the 5 gallon container up on to the swim platform and establish a primed siphon by flooding the suction hose all the way to the muff. Clear hose makes it easy to scan for air, and Bravo sucks up four gallons in about 15 seconds at idle. I have been using standard 15w-50 Mobil One since they stopped making the Extended Performance. W

Still trying to get it perfect Wing.... I was not so particular with my old Merc 3.0 TKS Alpha setup, but since Bravo's require more water supply to operate.... (I used to use a big 18 inch funnel connected to a short garden hose and onto the muffs (which required another person), but it sounds like B3 needs a lot more pressure/supply than that (maybe that's where the shop's warnings about Bravo's came from).

Anyhow, my new plan is to use a big clear bucket to hold several gallons of pink AF, placed right under the end of the transom/exhausts. Then use a 120 V utility pump to suck AF from the bucket to the muffs via short garden hose (two of them). Returning AF from the exhaust would land right back in the bucket allowing virtually endless supply. That setup would also open up the thermostat more quickly as the pink fluid would be recirculated, thus getting a bit warmer than typical fresh water supply. I know I am over-thinking this a bit, but I don't want to have to rush with AF on the muffs and risk supplying too little AF to B3 - endless supply would allow me to run it on pink with a higher pressure and a bit longer to make sure: a) thermostat opens up completely, b ) all water is out (I'd drain it first anyway), c) continuous coolant supply/no risk to the raw water pump.

Any issues with this plan?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Still trying to get it perfect Wing.... I was not so particular with my old Merc 3.0 TKS Alpha setup, but since Bravo's require more water supply to operate.... (I used to use a big 18 inch funnel connected to a short garden hose and onto the muffs (which required another person), but it sounds like B3 needs a lot more pressure/supply than that (maybe that's where the shop's warnings about Bravo's came from).

Anyhow, my new plan is to use a big clear bucket to hold several gallons of pink AF, placed right under the end of the transom/exhausts. Then use a 120 V utility pump to suck AF from the bucket to the muffs via short garden hose (two of them). Returning AF from the exhaust would land right back in the bucket allowing virtually endless supply. That setup would also open up the thermostat more quickly as the pink fluid would be recirculated, thus getting a bit warmer than typical fresh water supply. I know I am over-thinking this a bit, but I don't want to have to rush with AF on the muffs and risk supplying too little AF to B3 - endless supply would allow me to run it on pink with a higher pressure and a bit longer to make sure: a) thermostat opens up completely, b ) all water is out (I'd drain it first anyway), c) continuous coolant supply/no risk to the raw water pump.

Any issues with this plan?

I like this plan... wondering how big of bucket / tub will be required.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nothing huge, I was thinking smthg like 3ft by 1.5ft. That would easily catch the return fluid.

I'd just have to watch the temperature. The fluid would get hot quickly. That's probably the biggest risk. But the thermostat would stay wide open during the procedure. Good for nasty winters we have these days ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Capturing the antifreeze with buckets & trying to time the thermostat being open is tricky. Here's what I do for a friends raw-watercooled Bravo equipped boat. Closed cooling is lttle different.

-Drain all raw water from block, exh manifolds, water heater, any hoses, etc.

-Using muffs, draw in pink from a 5gal tank to get the seawater pump, coolers, hoses, & exhaust manifolds.

-Next to fill the block, remove circulator pump hose and pour in another 2-3 gal pink until it runs out the thermostat housing.

This way you know for sure the block is filled and don't have to guess about the thermostat being open or closed. I'd like to hear what others do for winterization also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What about just removing the thermostat and then replacing it in the springtime? About five minutes, max, is what I figure and then no question about the tstat being open or closed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 5.7 mercruiser with an Alpha 1. I use a kiddy pool and low tox antifreeze. Pour the antifreeze in the pool with a pump connected to the muffs. Run it until about 170 degrees. Then I spray fogging oil in the carburetor until it die. The I put plastic over the carburetor and replace the flame arrestor. Been doing this for 22 years. No problem's yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup, I am working on the pump project... Got some initial videos but it's too early to show. My thing now is which pump to use, since I do have a choice.

I can use a 330 GPH pump or a 1000 GPH. Garden hose seems to put out about 300 GPH (5 GPM).

I think the 1000 GHP pump would be an overkill, the AF might spray out of the muffs when on idle. Don't know. Been trying to look up Bravo 3 6.2 L V8 water pump suction rate to no avail. But it looks promising.

The biggest risk is: a ) overheating the engine since the AF will get warm very quickly and will provide no cooling, b ) running the engine dry if the pump gets a bubble and stops pushing the water at the maximum rate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup, I am working on the pump project... Got some initial videos but it's too early to show. My thing now is which pump to use, since I do have a choice.

I can use a 330 GPH pump or a 1000 GPH. Garden hose seems to put out about 300 GPH (5 GPM).

I think the 1000 GHP pump would be an overkill, the AF might spray out of the muffs when on idle. Don't know. Been trying to look up Bravo 3 6.2 L V8 water pump suction rate to no avail. But it looks promising.

The biggest risk is: a ) overheating the engine since the AF will get warm very quickly and will provide no cooling, b ) running the engine dry if the pump gets a bubble and stops pushing the water at the maximum rate.

I was wondering the exact same thing regarding what type of pump to use...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, most folks on this and many forums claim muffs with a garden hose are OK for idle speeds. And that's probably true. BUT, the fogging procedure calls for 1300 RPM or so. I will probably do the 5-minute fogging operation on the garden hose with muffs (which might be able to handle 1300 RPM) and only use my pump for the antifreeze part (but still on the fogging cocktail), but just for a minute or so, since I expect the engine to reach 170 F VERY quickly. I will need one person in the boat to monitor the temp very closely as it will start going up (and not cooling the engine anymore) VERY quickly given the recirculated and limited fluid.

By the way, I have saved myself an expense.... by using my above ground pool's pump! I have a leftover pump from an old pool that does 330 GPH and a bigger pump that came with the 16' pool (1000 GPH). $40 in my pocket LOL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The "W" word has hit me too. Boat has to be out of the slip this wknd! Ordered my filters from my trusty buds at Cecil Marine. This year I'm going to try the Mobil 1 from Wally World in lieu of the Merc Oil I've used every year. In the Spring I installed a flushing port down in front of the water pump. Makes it so easy and no worries of the stupid muffs!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, most folks on this and many forums claim muffs with a garden hose are OK for idle speeds. And that's probably true. BUT, the fogging procedure calls for 1300 RPM or so. I will probably do the 5-minute fogging operation on the garden hose with muffs (which might be able to handle 1300 RPM) and only use my pump for the antifreeze part (but still on the fogging cocktail), but just for a minute or so, since I expect the engine to reach 170 F VERY quickly. I will need one person in the boat to monitor the temp very closely as it will start going up (and not cooling the engine anymore) VERY quickly given the recirculated and limited fluid.

By the way, I have saved myself an expense.... by using my above ground pool's pump! I have a leftover pump from an old pool that does 330 GPH and a bigger pump that came with the 16' pool (1000 GPH). $40 in my pocket LOL

Saw this on Craigslist. A local boat guy uses it to winterize engines.

post-8643-0-29180400-1411098974_thumb.jp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nah.... this should do the job. That's with the 330 GPH pump. I was only able to obtain the reading of 250 GPH (using a stop watch and a gallon container) but then, my garden hose is 277 GPH so if the latter does the job, the pump will too (at idle, just to suck and circulate the AF for a minute or two).

The white bucket will be filled with 6 gallons of AF and placed under the drive (hope there is clearance, otherwise, I'll have to chop the top of it off), then the pump will push the AF into the drive, and the bucket will receive the AF back from the motor. Closed circuit which means no running the engine dry at any point (as could easily happen with a gravity bucket setup or a funnel). Simple enough, except there will be essentially no cooling to the motor since the warm fluid will be pumped right back in. Good for opening the thermostat and should be quick and easy given someone watches the temp on the digital display.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I let the Bravo's suck in the pink stuff, but I do elevate the 5 gallon container up on to the swim platform and establish a primed siphon by flooding the suction hose all the way to the muff. Clear hose makes it easy to scan for air, and Bravo sucks up four gallons in about 15 seconds at idle. I have been using standard 15w-50 Mobil One since they stopped making the Extended Performance. W

Not that anyone asked this newbie but been boating for 15 years and the bucket of pink stuff on the swim platform works great!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...