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Hatem

What are some cool modifications you've done to your boat?

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Hey all, Newbie Chris here. 2002 Chaparral 230 SSI. We're a young family and it's our first boat. We are in northern Minnesota.

Two requirements we absolutely didn't have were the porta potty and sink. I've taken the porta potty out and made the enclosure a comfortable (and warm) spot for the kiddos. I'm happy with leaving it at that, although I'll have to figure out a way to prevent my two year old from turning down the volume on the aftermarket stereo inside!

That leaves the sink. The most creative thing my friends and family have offered is to use it as an ice bucket for white wine and bubbly when entertaining guests. Yeah, okay, I can't wait to take advantage of that twice a year and, oh yeah, there's a cooler right below it. I've thought about trying to transform it into a workstation that could extend to the captains chair for those work-from-boat days. I've thought about transforming it into a sub woofer enclosure. That's as far as my imagination has taken me. Right now, it just holds my tie ropes which is about as unimaginative as it gets.

Any brilliant ideas out there?! Much appreciated!

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On ‎11‎/‎2‎/‎2017 at 0:09 PM, Exoset said:

I had to upgrade the truck to :P

IMG_0417.jpg

 

 

 

Very sweet.  I'll always be a Ford guy, though.  :lol:

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2 hours ago, ColdOne said:

I hate spell checker.... Hatem

I could not post with out it.  Denny.

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17 hours ago, Hatem said:

Very sweet.  I'll always be a Ford guy, though.  :lol:

Hehe I checked the Ford Super Duty but there was 2 things bothering me :

1. Ford don't make Mega Cab and the truck is recreational, and I need the additional space in the cabin, I don't use it for work or else

2. I do like the layout of RAM interior, much more than the one in the Ford

I like the double sunroof in the Ford and the new front layout.

In the end, and despite the ''war'' between Ford/RAM/GM, I think there is no more bad trucks today. they are all very good trucks, it is just a matter of taste :)

I just wanted a truck tough enough to tow 15 K and since all 3500/350 tow above 20 K I just had to go with the one I liked most ;)

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@Exoset:

So, I'm really interested in changing over to the VesselView 4 as you did.  Where did you buy your units?  I'm finding one on eBay in the $800 range, but they are very few and far between otherwise.  If you don't mind me asking, how much did you spend on each?  Is $800 high or low?

Appreciate the help!

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56 minutes ago, TexasPilot71 said:

@Exoset:

So, I'm really interested in changing over to the VesselView 4 as you did.  Where did you buy your units?  I'm finding one on eBay in the $800 range, but they are very few and far between otherwise.  If you don't mind me asking, how much did you spend on each?  Is $800 high or low?

Appreciate the help!

Bought it on eBay too, weird thing about VV4 is that it stays high in terms of price because the newer VV are larger than 4 inches and because of that, a lot of people don't have enough room to fit the newest models, and consequently, there is a strong demand on VV4. I would say 800$ is a pretty good price, they dropped to 500-600 a couple months ago but now they are back to their original price.

Merc stopped producing them for now because of the VV 502/702 so they should become more and more difficult to find, if you want one, don't wait too long, I guess you won't be able to find them in a near future.

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Two mods I am in the middle of doing is adding a fumoto valve and push/pull cable to the oil pan to drain the oil and adding 2 batteries along with a new switch panel since the original one is too small for the dual battery switch and isolator.

I found it odd I could not find a generic panel to buy and am having to make one myself.

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On 11/28/2017 at 0:17 PM, Exoset said:

Bought it on eBay too, weird thing about VV4 is that it stays high in terms of price because the newer VV are larger than 4 inches and because of that, a lot of people don't have enough room to fit the newest models, and consequently, there is a strong demand on VV4. I would say 800$ is a pretty good price, they dropped to 500-600 a couple months ago but now they are back to their original price.

Merc stopped producing them for now because of the VV 502/702 so they should become more and more difficult to find, if you want one, don't wait too long, I guess you won't be able to find them in a near future.

Good stuff.  Thanks, man!

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Got a battery question for anyone who might know the answer can kindly reply here without having to open a new thread just for that.

I don't remember the procedure but I'm pretty sure all 3 deep cycle batteries are kaput, dead as can be and I need to get the hatch opened to access them and install the new ones.  I have the 1 starter and the other two whatever they're called but should I just plug my 110vt chord into the outlet I have that runs to the transformer/transducer whatever and to the battery and get enough power to open the hatch?  Or is there another trick anyone knows?  Any help would be appreciated. 

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2 hours ago, WaterDR said:

What about the VV phone ap?  No need to install a screen?

 

Not sure if you were referring to my question or something else, I apologize I'm not sure what you mean by using an ap in this case.

I just needed to know if it's basically ok to just plug in my shore power outlet (which is 110vt) with 3, completely dead deep cycle batteries just to get enough power to open the hatch so I can access them and change them among other things I need to do.  I know it's probably a silly question but I've never had to deal with this before and I do have a full tank of gas and I'm basically de-winterizing it, so to speak.  Just want to be sure that's the way to go and if there's a potential risk or it should be ok and should work. 

I don't think there's another way to pop the hatch off without powering it.

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2 hours ago, Hatem said:

 

Not sure if you were referring to my question or something else, I apologize I'm not sure what you mean by using an ap in this case.

I just needed to know if it's basically ok to just plug in my shore power outlet (which is 110vt) with 3, completely dead deep cycle batteries just to get enough power to open the hatch so I can access them and change them among other things I need to do.  I know it's probably a silly question but I've never had to deal with this before and I do have a full tank of gas and I'm basically de-winterizing it, so to speak.  Just want to be sure that's the way to go and if there's a potential risk or it should be ok and should work. 

I don't think there's another way to pop the hatch off without powering it.

 Hatem. Glad to see you are still around. As I recall you have a 276 SSX that’s  just like mine. If that’s the case where your battery switches are you should have two lugs that you can hook a jump box up to and power than the hatch from there. 

Hope that helps and happy boating.

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Good to hear from you buddy!  Do what. ColdOne said. Plugging in your shore power (and powering the charger)  will charge your batteries which will boost the hatch motor but if your batteries are bad, that’s probably not an option. Worth a try though. 

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11 hours ago, WaterDR said:

What about the VV phone ap?  No need to install a screen?

I think you may have been referring to my post. Why not VV Mobile?  Because I am replacing the stock tachometer unit. The VV4 shows me everything I need to see. I’ve even removed all the other gauges on the panel in lieu of the VV4. It’s awesome!

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18 hours ago, ColdOne said:

 Hatem. Glad to see you are still around. As I recall you have a 276 SSX that’s  just like mine. If that’s the case where your battery switches are you should have two lugs that you can hook a jump box up to and power than the hatch from there. 

Hope that helps and happy boating.

Thanks, man.  I forgot I do have a powerpack kicking around somewhere.  I need to also lift the drive first in order to pull the boat out of it's tent storage, so I need enough power to do that as well as open the hatch.  You think the powerpack will have enough for both those functions?

11 hours ago, TexasPilot71 said:

Good to hear from you buddy!  Do what. ColdOne said. Plugging in your shore power (and powering the charger)  will charge your batteries which will boost the hatch motor but if your batteries are bad, that’s probably not an option. Worth a try though. 

Good to see you too, TP.  I wasn't sure if the shore power connection will only trickle power to the batteries through the charger or if it will do that while at the same time provide a constant 12 vt to the rest of the electrical components.  I was hoping for the latter.  Gonna try it this week and let you guys know what happens.

I guess I'll pop the hatch first, then try to raise the drive if I have enough power to do both.  If not, then at least I can change the batteries.  Cheers.

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Hatem - My jump box has enough power for both functions. just make sure your switches are on.

35 minutes ago, Hatem said:

Thanks, man.  I forgot I do have a powerpack kicking around somewhere.  I need to also lift the drive first in order to pull the boat out of it's tent storage, so I need enough power to do that as well as open the hatch.  You think the powerpack will have enough for both those functions?

 

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G'luck, Hatem.

 

Since the thread got revived, might as well add to it:

Made a neat bow shade. I'm 6'5 and can stand upright in it. Was very effective this past weekend, we had some nice sunny days. Can handle some wind gusts, too. Takes less than 5 min to set up, breaks down into a handy included little bag.

Recipe:

https://www.amazon.com/Neso-Tents-Grande-Reinforced-Corners/dp/B0786J8X2K/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Remove the “bags” off end of each rope, and add clips like these (can’t vouch for these exactly, I had some already at home):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E011MLG/ref=sspa_mw_detail_2?psc=1

And use a tent pole like this, I’m still playing with length, but started with 16’ long, can be a foot or so shorter. I put rubber caps on the ends to protect my vinyl, the ends sit where seat pads intersect:


https://www.amazon.com/WEANAS-Aluminum-Tent-Pole-Replacement/dp/B074N6HSRB/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

 

41711839234_d364f64103_b.jpg

 

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Ok--let's try this again.

When I landed a dock at the local state park marina last year, one of the plusses was getting shore power and water.  That said, the benefit I was getting out of the shore power was keeping the batteries fully charged, via the onboard charger I installed last year.

My desire to maximize the value from my dock fees, as well as the wish to eliminate the need to get a cooler together for every outing (especially the spur of the moment ones), lead to a fun project over the late winter/early spring--adding a dual power refrigerator to our 225 SSI.

The first step was getting a true shore power system on the boat.  Fortunately, I was able to score a barely-used EZACDC shore power kit at a really good deal from another powerboat Facebook group I'm in.  As fortunately, I was able to fit the panel in next to the battery panel on the boat:

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The really challenging part was finding a location for the refrigerator, without taking away from the relatively small amount of usable storage space on the 225 SSI.  Ultimately I landed on using the factory cooler location, but without the drop-in cooler well.  The smallest Dometic AC/DC refrigerator just squeezes in there, with enough room for the door to swing open:

y4mX7-NIJ1ZKpkfLnaUWL_sCM_TNnmDlh7XX_lOr

I had to fabricate a mounting plate out of Starboard, and then shave it down a few times until I got to something that could squeeze through the opening, but still had enough on the ends to screw the plate into the deck below.

y4mDxQsBoGB6cYeVJjmncXaHR2YXbSw8jjHKTWlM

Once finished up and wired up, the results are great.  I always have cold beverages ready when I get to the boat, and we gained a little deck space through not having a cooler floating around on deck.   The unit keeps things VERY cold, and is pretty efficient when running on battery.

y4m0B7dLQBvh-W4EDa1HFN7cU8pobU6F935ZvyID

y4m1MUInWii8Cyodecf4lEjHVIMpFEHVBF8dFwujy4m5Tt5RCatDmMY7EIhwwYKGuRvGLzH-0dhomFiZ

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11 hours ago, ColdOne said:

Hatem - My jump box has enough power for both functions. just make sure your switches are on.

 

Ok, sounds like a plan, thanks a lot.  I'm gonna try the chord first just to satisfy my curiosity and if it doesn't work, PlanColdOne.  If you never hear from me again you'll know what happened lol. 

7 hours ago, Toddavid said:

G'luck, Hatem.

Appreciate it very much.  Have you talked to Bill at all, recently?  Wonder how our old buddy is doing?  Hope all is well with him.

7 hours ago, Toddavid said:

41711839234_d364f64103_b.jpg

 

That is ridiculously brilliant!  What a great idea for some shade, especially at the bow seats.

7 hours ago, sburke91 said:

y4mJdUzfHGOvZ42PBMAE2eUSo00P3x9NjqzOgv7p

Maybe when you get some time, you can show us how you set up the shore power panel.  That looks great, but I hope those marks in between the two panels are just pencil marks?!

7 hours ago, sburke91 said:

 

Once finished up and wired up, the results are great.  I always have cold beverages ready when I get to the boat, and we gained a little deck space through not having a cooler floating around on deck.   The unit keeps things VERY cold, and is pretty efficient when running on battery.

That is just outstanding!  I like the way you made the mounting plate with a little left over at the ends but I'm surprised you were able to get in there to screw it down?!  Looks like you can barely fit a few fingers in there.

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