Jump to content
Hatem

What are some cool modifications you've done to your boat?

Recommended Posts

On ‎1‎/‎28‎/‎2019 at 5:48 PM, Curt said:

Looks great. Very nice work. Now for some Elton John, the Doobies, Clapton and Bob Seger. Or, some yacht rock... Paul Davis, etc. Rip away. My wife does every time I connect the Bluetooth.

Nice.  You can tell a lot about someone's personality by the music they listen to. :) 

On ‎1‎/‎29‎/‎2019 at 8:57 PM, rjbergen said:

Saw your install on Facebook. Love it! Can't wait to get mine out of storage to start work on her.

Did you pick up any of the MS-NRX300 dust covers? Google search link

Definitely a nice install.  Mine is in the driveway but shrunk-wrapped and the weather isn't exactly conducive to working on it.  Just hovering around -3, lol.

On ‎1‎/‎28‎/‎2019 at 4:32 PM, TexasPilot71 said:

Here are some pics of the new install:85A01A0F-F15C-447E-BD01-8D3A3621C40F.jpeg.bfe6c22c0abcac4a91ae1c3e97d01db4.jpeg

Those are pretty nice, but I don't see a trim switch on that unit.  Is there a separate transom switch for the outdrive trim or no?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/29/2019 at 7:57 PM, rjbergen said:

Saw your install on Facebook. Love it! Can't wait to get mine out of storage to start work on her.

Did you pick up any of the MS-NRX300 dust covers? Google search link

Thanks!

Each remote came with its own dust cover.  I'm a little concerned about accidentally leaving the swim platform remote cover on.  I'll have to remember to remove it before each outing.  With the camper canvas on as it is right now, it covers it and keeps it in place.  These high res photos show just how badly she needs a bath!  They disconnected water to the boat house for the winter, though.  :(

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Hatem said:

Nice.  You can tell a lot about someone's personality by the music they listen to. :) 

Definitely a nice install.  Mine is in the driveway but shrunk-wrapped and the weather isn't exactly conducive to working on it.  Just hovering around -3, lol.

Those are pretty nice, but I don't see a trim switch on that unit.  Is there a separate transom switch for the outdrive trim or no?

LOL!  Funny, I don't even know the song showing on the remote.  I think that was a country station on Spotify.

-3?  Uggg...too cold for me!  Hard to believe others are (were) around -25!

Good question.  Nope...no trim switch on the transom.  I don't think any of the Sigs have it.  I always trim all the way up from the helm when I get her on the trailer, so I would probably never use it on the transom.  On other boats, I would use the switch to put some down pressure on the out drive support arm before connecting the bungee around the drive.  I don't use one on this boat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, TexasPilot71 said:

LOL!  Funny, I don't even know the song showing on the remote.  I think that was a country station on Spotify.

-3?  Uggg...too cold for me!  Hard to believe others are (were) around -25!

Good question.  Nope...no trim switch on the transom.  I don't think any of the Sigs have it.  I always trim all the way up from the helm when I get her on the trailer, so I would probably never use it on the transom.  On other boats, I would use the switch to put some down pressure on the out drive support arm before connecting the bungee around the drive.  I don't use one on this boat.

I was actually referring to Curt's selection of music.  He mentioned Bob Seager and Elton John etc.  I have no idea who that artist is on that screen display.  Not much of a country guy.  I'm more of a metal/fusion and classic rock. 

My transom remote got stuck in the up position.  Went to trim up after pulling out of the water and it kept straining in the up position.  Turns out the wires were corroded and shorting.  I need to order the Chaparral remote which has the radio and trim control on it.  This time put a gasket around it.

Saw this yesterday, thought it was pretty cool.  Mercury pulling ahead of Volvo in docking technology?  Someone snuck this film in who wasn't supposed to which is probably why it's grainy.

https://twitter.com/boatingmagazine/status/1091363990972829701

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First planes Then big ships. Now little boats.  Put my brain in a hydroponic fluid with 2 wires inputting happy hour.

Almost there people.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Hatem said:

I was actually referring to Curt's selection of music.  He mentioned Bob Seager and Elton John etc.  I have no idea who that artist is on that screen display.  Not much of a country guy.  I'm more of a metal/fusion and classic rock. 

My transom remote got stuck in the up position.  Went to trim up after pulling out of the water and it kept straining in the up position.  Turns out the wires were corroded and shorting.  I need to order the Chaparral remote which has the radio and trim control on it.  This time put a gasket around it.

Saw this yesterday, thought it was pretty cool.  Mercury pulling ahead of Volvo in docking technology?  Someone snuck this film in who wasn't supposed to which is probably why it's grainy.

https://twitter.com/boatingmagazine/status/1091363990972829701

That's awesome!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎2‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 12:02 PM, TexasPilot71 said:

That's awesome!

If cars can park themselves, then why not boats, right?  Problem is, these high-tech docking and steering systems only work with twins or more for obvious reason, so guys like you and me with single engines are excluded from benefiting from any of this new tech.  UNLESS...it can be incorporated in a single-engine/propped boat with a bow thruster.  That would be quite something.  It might need to have a stern thruster as well to really perform well but at least those two items are much more practical to install than adding a 2nd engine & outdrive! 

Time to get to the drawing board and get busy inventing this before someone else does! :haha-7383:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I prefer to dock my boat myself. I love the challenge of backing a single into a slip.... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Phillbo said:

I prefer to dock my boat myself. I love the challenge of backing a single into a slip.... 

Windy day, with full canvas, by myself....man I hate it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎2‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 2:48 PM, TexasPilot71 said:

Windy day, with full canvas, by myself....man I hate it!

And current.  For me, it's mostly the current but wind too makes the bow almost impossible to control.  Need to do it quick  an jump off and tie up before it takes off on you.

I bet a joystick system with a single engine can be done.  The only thing is the package would have to include a change from a single throttle cable shifter to a single DTC, bow & stern thrusters and an EMC or circuit board that you would add to the digital throttle control & steering.  A similar circuit board that determines which to turn more and which to power more (just like Axius or EVC) and instead of feeding the info to a pair of outdrives, you're working with 2 thrusters at bow and stern and one outdrive.  I bet you'd get the same, exact propulsion ranges that you would with a standard joystick on twins, maybe even better responses since the thrusters are positioned perpendicular to the boat's axius and so lateral motion would be achieved much easier than trying to do it with twin outdrives. 

To go completely sideways with 2 outdrives, they have to do A LOT of work.  I believe they need to turn about 30 degrees and then one prop pulsates forward in certain increments while the other does the same in reverse.  It's incredible how they make that work, but they do it while asking a lot from the outdrives.  But with thrusters, it would be minimal work since they're already facing sideways.  And to go diagonally, all they would need to do is activate both thrusters at lower RPM and position the outdrive to a certain degree and power that, either in forward or reverse and get the exact result with less work.

All that stuff is actually really easy to put together.  The only tough part is designing the circuit board.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/5/2019 at 2:48 PM, TexasPilot71 said:

Windy day, with full canvas, by myself....man I hate it!

Add a 5 mph current perpendicular to the slip too. That is what I deal with.  I am getting the hang of it but not a pro by any means

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, fortunately I don't have a current at the lake.  Different story when we go to Florida, but I'm also not trying to put her in a slip.  I really have no problems most days.  It's just the windy days when I have the canvas up.  That's so much surface area to catch wind.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, TexasPilot71 said:

Yeah, fortunately I don't have a current at the lake.  Different story when we go to Florida, but I'm also not trying to put her in a slip.  I really have no problems most days.  It's just the windy days when I have the canvas up.  That's so much surface area to catch wind.

On windy days we lower all the eisenglass and roll up as much canvas as possible.  It helps, but there is a lot of surface area on these things.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I still say bow thrusters are the only solution to a wind ? strong current space.  Some boats REALLY NEED a stern thruster also.   I have been in a old 45' Woodie with 16 people in it. Waves were 3' blowing away from the dock.   SO  SO enjoyable to drift sideways slowly to the dock & tie up telling jokes.   :wub:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/27/2019 at 10:00 PM, Denny said:

Hey Chuck, Denny from Toledo here, good to here from you. Do all the showers have the additional holes on the bottom now? Going on the 3rd season now, and haven't cleaned the out-drive yet.  

IMG-3759.jpg

 

 

Hi Denny! Great to hear from you again!!! Haven't had to clean your out-drive YET? That's great! Good to know your Drive-Shower is protecting the outside as well as the inside. Anyone in your group be interested in a Drive-Shower? Will give a discount for a group buy.  Just looked at the picture of your out-drive. Gosh, it looks like a NEW one!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Simreknc said:

Hi Denny! Great to hear from you again!!! Haven't had to clean your out-drive YET? That's great! Good to know your Drive-Shower is protecting the outside as well as the inside. Anyone in your group be interested in a Drive-Shower? Will give a discount for a group buy.  Just looked at the picture of your out-drive. Gosh, it looks like a NEW one!

Yeah, no more vinegar and rubbing compound, just a little mild soap and a little vinegar in the water, for the water spots. Denny.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎11‎/‎27‎/‎2018 at 7:17 AM, Dennis A said:

Looks like that plate is aluminum with an ABS plastic coating.  

https://www.seaviewglobal.com/products/modular-top-plates?variant=12309295169634

ADA-R1-001_8e12710e-3148-47a1-8c94-66834

 

Haven't seen you in a while, bro.  Hope all is ok and you're just busy with all those rugrats running around your house! :D 

Since you're quite knowledgeable about all these materials, I was just told about this stuff on another forum, every hear of it?

HDU Board.  High Density Urethane.  Waiting to hear if it's better to use for the radar base than straight azek, but wondering if you know anything about it?

https://www.polymershapes.com/product/hdu-board/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Denny, so this is the current rough-out after I ran the 2-1/4" sq x 36" piece of Honduran mahogany through the jointer and then took off all the square edges on the table saw to make it as roughly round as possible before I run it through the lathe.  This little bit of roughing makes it so much easier to begin turning and shaping on the lathe.  Sorry my pics lately have been coming out a bit blurry.  I think my Samsung Android is just finally getting old.

n5n3KlI.jpg

Iw8R4D2.jpg

Looking at the socket, the inner diameter where the pole inserts into is a mere 1".  Way too small for what we want.  So what I'll be doing is making the stem only of the bottom end of the pole at that 1" diameter x about 2" long so that it fits into the socket and where it sits on top of the socket, it will be the same as the outside diameter of the top of that socket which is a little shy of 1-5/8th inch and that'll be the base thickness of the pole and go from there. 

MJToj7s.jpg

VlLF152.jpg

Then I'll bottle the pole a little, making it kinda taper a slightly into a bulbous shape for the next 20 inches or so and then gradually taper down to about a 1" neck before I get to the top ball.  I'll see if a few rings before the ball make sense and look good and if they do, I'll keep them and if not, I'll knock them off but either way, it'll look awesome.  So that stem at the bottom will work out well so that it fits nicely into the socket but then it'll look like it's exactly the same width as the outside of the socket.

Plus the good thing is you can pop the mahogany pole off and throw a stainless steel one in whenever you want.  So you're not committed to it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

GREAT modification for all you beer drinkers.  Set up a little float-type switch in the cooler that senses the bottles of Bud light or Corona are running low and this things ALARMS at the same decibel level as an over-heating alarm and you can shut if off like any other rocker switch and fill 'er up!  :D 

low_beer_alarm_red_smallw_min_1_46beb1c9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/29/2019 at 11:25 AM, Hatem said:

Haven't seen you in a while, bro.  Hope all is ok and you're just busy with all those rugrats running around your house! :D 

Since you're quite knowledgeable about all these materials, I was just told about this stuff on another forum, every hear of it?

HDU Board.  High Density Urethane.  Waiting to hear if it's better to use for the radar base than straight azek, but wondering if you know anything about it?

https://www.polymershapes.com/product/hdu-board/

Sorry it's been so long.  I been heads down pencils up with work that I haven't been on here much and missed the notification in my inbox.

I don't know much about either the HDU or the Azek.  I know the HDU comes in many "flavors" and could be a viable option under the correct conditions.  I know they use it in outdoor signs so it should be able to withstand the elements,  but I am not sure of its mechanical properties and how well it would perform in a structural application.  The Azek concerns me the most from a rigidity and creep standpoint.  I would be concerned it would sag out of position in short order when exposed to the sun and heat of summer. 

 

Sorry, not much help here.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Hatem said:

@Denny, so this is the current rough-out after I ran the 2-1/4" sq x 36" piece of Honduran mahogany through the jointer and then took off all the square edges on the table saw to make it as roughly round as possible before I run it through the lathe.  This little bit of roughing makes it so much easier to begin turning and shaping on the lathe.  Sorry my pics lately have been coming out a bit blurry.  I think my Samsung Android is just finally getting old.

n5n3KlI.jpg

Iw8R4D2.jpg

Looking at the socket, the inner diameter where the pole inserts into is a mere 1".  Way too small for what we want.  So what I'll be doing is making the stem only of the bottom end of the pole at that 1" diameter x about 2" long so that it fits into the socket and where it sits on top of the socket, it will be the same as the outside diameter of the top of that socket which is a little shy of 1-5/8th inch and that'll be the base thickness of the pole and go from there. 

MJToj7s.jpg

VlLF152.jpg

Then I'll bottle the pole a little, making it kinda taper a slightly into a bulbous shape for the next 20 inches or so and then gradually taper down to about a 1" neck before I get to the top ball.  I'll see if a few rings before the ball make sense and look good and if they do, I'll keep them and if not, I'll knock them off but either way, it'll look awesome.  So that stem at the bottom will work out well so that it fits nicely into the socket but then it'll look like it's exactly the same width as the outside of the socket.

Plus the good thing is you can pop the mahogany pole off and throw a stainless steel one in whenever you want.  So you're not committed to it.

Looks great, going to be real pretty on the back of my girl. I know absolutely nothing about wood strength. Will the pole at 1" diamator be strong enough with a flag flying on it? 

I think that the 30"-33" range will work very well, you are the master.

The only way that my flag will fly is when it is on the pole that you made. (almost said flying on your pole) LOL, it is so hard to be politically correct these days.

Seen this when I was leaving the wood shop, and thought of you.  Denny.

IMG_9729.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, Dennis A said:

Sorry it's been so long.  I been heads down pencils up with work that I haven't been on here much and missed the notification in my inbox.

I don't know much about either the HDU or the Azek.  I know the HDU comes in many "flavors" and could be a viable option under the correct conditions.  I know they use it in outdoor signs so it should be able to withstand the elements,  but I am not sure of its mechanical properties and how well it would perform in a structural application.  The Azek concerns me the most from a rigidity and creep standpoint.  I would be concerned it would sag out of position in short order when exposed to the sun and heat of summer. 

 

Sorry, not much help here.

 

No worries, good to hear from you.  Glad work is keeping you busy, that's always a good thing. 

Yeah I'm not sure about HDU until someone on another forum saw that eagle emblem project I'm about to embark on and got really excited about it because he does that sort of thing -- well, not exactly eagle emblems but signs in general -- which involve a lot of imagery, so to speak and he said he doesn't use wood of any kind and uses strictly HDU unless he has a customer who specifically requests a type of wood which he then tried to convince not to use it since he can't guarantee it won't check or crack or rot due to lack of maintenance.  I'll have to ask him more about that material and look it up.

You bring up a very good point about Azek and if you've been following the windlass thread, I used that for the platform to hold the windlass since I've used that material for 20+ years on my construction projects and never had any problems with it except for its propensity to shrink, most in cold weather.  Interestingly enough, I've found that the change of temperature doesn't affect it in both ways in the same capacity.  In extreme heat, it doesn't expand nearly as much as it shrinks in colder temperatures.  Gaps at seams and corners open up but never expand.  Maybe it's because our summers are short and we rarely see 100* for more than a few days or a week at the most.  So it sees and reacts to the more predominant lower temperatures than the higher ones.  I fell ok about it and I don't think that even if it does get impacted, that it would be in such a way that would cause major problems, expecially for relatively small diameter piece.  If it was something that was long and overhung or was suspended, I would definitely be much more concerned and probably won' use it.  The windlass platform will be glassed so that thing ain't budging! :) 

15 hours ago, Denny said:

Looks great, going to be real pretty on the back of my girl. I know absolutely nothing about wood strength. Will the pole at 1" diamator be strong enough with a flag flying on it? 

I think that the 30"-33" range will work very well, you are the master.

The only way that my flag will fly is when it is on the pole that you made. (almost said flying on your pole) LOL, it is so hard to be politically correct these days.

Seen this when I was leaving the wood shop, and thought of you.  Denny.

IMG_9729.jpg

 

"Pole" and "back of your girl" sheesh, Denny, we're really getting smutty here lmfao! :D 

The only part that will be 1" diameter will be the stem that goes into the socket.  The rest of it starting from the part of the pole that sits on the top of the socket will be 1-5/8"th so it will be solid.  The bottleneck might taper down to 1" or maybe more but that's for a short distance before it's capped off with a decorative ball to finish off the top nicely.  It'll be awesome.

Look at how that purpleheart just slaps you in the face!  I have a few pieces just sitting in my shop I bought many years ago and hopefully someday we'll make something nice out of them.  That front piece is crazy, almost looks like some type of zebra wood.

I've used purpleheart for a finish flooring on a project many years ago.  The entire square footage of the first floor was all purpleheart boards and I'll tell you, as much as I liked it and how awesome it looks, putting down so much almost gave it the opposite effect.  It was overwhelmingly purple which greatly limited the matching choices or other finishes such as paint, cabinets and furniture.

Not sure if I posted this pic already, but this is from a new house I built in 2012 where the homeowner requested mahogany flooring in the master bedroom.  Any other choice wood and I would've tried to convince him otherwise but because mahogany is even better than cedar or even teak against moisture, I had no problem using it, even with  his & hers shower (basically two showers in one you can see the shower heads at both ends) and that clawfoot tub which overflows and spills like crazy.  I coated all 4 sides of the boards with 7 coats of oil-base polyurethane.

c3A3zeV.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Hatem said:

No worries, good to hear from you.  Glad work is keeping you busy, that's always a good thing. 

Yeah I'm not sure about HDU until someone on another forum saw that eagle emblem project I'm about to embark on and got really excited about it because he does that sort of thing -- well, not exactly eagle emblems but signs in general -- which involve a lot of imagery, so to speak and he said he doesn't use wood of any kind and uses strictly HDU unless he has a customer who specifically requests a type of wood which he then tried to convince not to use it since he can't guarantee it won't check or crack or rot due to lack of maintenance.  I'll have to ask him more about that material and look it up.

You bring up a very good point about Azek and if you've been following the windlass thread, I used that for the platform to hold the windlass since I've used that material for 20+ years on my construction projects and never had any problems with it except for its propensity to shrink, most in cold weather.  Interestingly enough, I've found that the change of temperature doesn't affect it in both ways in the same capacity.  In extreme heat, it doesn't expand nearly as much as it shrinks in colder temperatures.  Gaps at seams and corners open up but never expand.  Maybe it's because our summers are short and we rarely see 100* for more than a few days or a week at the most.  So it sees and reacts to the more predominant lower temperatures than the higher ones.  I fell ok about it and I don't think that even if it does get impacted, that it would be in such a way that would cause major problems, expecially for relatively small diameter piece.  If it was something that was long and overhung or was suspended, I would definitely be much more concerned and probably won' use it.  The windlass platform will be glassed so that thing ain't budging! :) 

"Pole" and "back of your girl" sheesh, Denny, we're really getting smutty here lmfao! :D 

The only part that will be 1" diameter will be the stem that goes into the socket.  The rest of it starting from the part of the pole that sits on the top of the socket will be 1-5/8"th so it will be solid.  The bottleneck might taper down to 1" or maybe more but that's for a short distance before it's capped off with a decorative ball to finish off the top nicely.  It'll be awesome.

Look at how that purpleheart just slaps you in the face!  I have a few pieces just sitting in my shop I bought many years ago and hopefully someday we'll make something nice out of them.  That front piece is crazy, almost looks like some type of zebra wood.

I've used purpleheart for a finish flooring on a project many years ago.  The entire square footage of the first floor was all purpleheart boards and I'll tell you, as much as I liked it and how awesome it looks, putting down so much almost gave it the opposite effect.  It was overwhelmingly purple which greatly limited the matching choices or other finishes such as paint, cabinets and furniture.

Not sure if I posted this pic already, but this is from a new house I built in 2012 where the homeowner requested mahogany flooring in the master bedroom.  Any other choice wood and I would've tried to convince him otherwise but becauseLook at how that purpleheart just slaps you in the face! mahogany is even better than cedar or even teak against moisture, I had no problem using it, even with  his & hers shower (basically two showers in one you can see the shower heads at both ends) and that clawfoot tub which overflows and spills like crazy.  I coated all 4 sides of the boards with 7 coats of oil-base polyurethane.

c3A3zeV.jpg

Look at how that purpleheart just slaps you in the face!

That is why I took the picture.

Sometimes less is more. I can the purple heart as an accent color, not the main color, the only true color that actually compliments it, is white.

 Love the bathroom floor.

Ok, your 1 of 2 manufactured mahogany flag poles mounted on top of my boat transom between my 2 aft taft rails.  Denny.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎4‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 6:45 PM, Denny said:

Looks great, going to be real pretty on the back of my girl. I know absolutely nothing about wood strength. Will the pole at 1" diamator be strong enough with a flag flying on it? 

So the only part that will be the 1" diameter is the bottom end stem of the pole so it fits into the 1" diameter of the socket, that's it.  Maybe 2" long at the most.  Once it sticks out of the socket, it will be 1-5/8th" diameter and then even bulbous more and then bottle back down to around an inch (maybe more depending how it looks) as it tapers towards the top end to the ball.  So it will be solid, no doubt about it and it won't be 1" diameter.  It's going to have a shape to it with different diameters at different points to make it much more interesting-looking and not just a straight, 1" pole.  :)  It's coming out really nicely and I'll post pics shortly.  Might even be worth drilling a 1/4" bore through the center about halfway up and inserting an aluminum rod for additional strength.  I'll see if that's needed when it's done but something tells me that won't be needed.

Does that stem only diameter that sticks into the socket make sense to you?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, Denny said:

Ok, your 1 of 2 manufactured mahogany flag poles mounted on top of my boat transom between my 2 aft taft rails.  Denny.

Wait, wuut?  You want 2 of them?  lol.  I'll make a duplicate if that's what you want.

In the meantime, finished shaping it on the main lathe which my buddy borrowed and it's at his shop and what a mess that place is, so I took it home and used my home-made lathe to finish it off and get it close to done.  Home made jig actually works awesome.

Starting about 3" in from the end to leave enough material for the socket stem.  Will get to that later.  But from here I need to work that bulbous center body and taper to the 1"+ neck top.

Jb9WFh2.jpg\

2bnc7Qz.jpg

gWQ6rhv.jpg

Got the tapered end and ring pre-end ball and I just made the ball a little over-sized and a bit oval for now so that we can look at it together and see what top end ball shape you would like to see and that would fit with an rather long flagpole like this.

zhNXqzW.jpg

Back to the bottom socket stem.  Need to shape it and keep it a bit over-sized since the usual principal of "sculpting" is to remove small amounts of material at a time.  Its always easier to remove material than it is to add!

lR0LNjr.jpg

Then I broke out the calipers to measure the exact 1" diameter of the interior of the socket.

1umgZEG.jpg

Looks good, we're gonna leave it a tad bit larger 1/16h of an inch for the final, super smooth sanding.

Wzbd8B9.jpg

Prior to that when it was a little rougher, I made sure that top ring that will sit on top of the socket needed to be 1-5/8th strong and that looked good.

ZhuynF2.jpg

So your total length of the flagpole is around 33" to the bottom of the stem, which means it includes the length of the socket which means it's the overall length.  That's pretty long and pretty cool so you can hang a pretty decent-sized flag on it. 

wo2OmKV.jpg

Here's basically what it looks like.  Like I said before, I left the top ball in an slightly over-sized oval shape so you and I (and whomever else watching this who might have an opinion on the final size and shape of that ball) can chime in before I put it back into the lathe and finish it off.  Sand it completely smooth and ready for oil.  But you @Denny need to tell me how you want that ball shaped and what you think would look good to you.  You can double click on the pics for larger and higher res. I think.

CiuqGVQ.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×