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Hatem

What are some cool modifications you've done to your boat?

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6 minutes ago, Hatem said:

Did you see the pic I just posted above your last post?  Just to be sure.

Perfect sized flag.  I wouldn't go any bigger but you can if you want.  Yes, the clip for the top of the flag will be about 3/4"-1" below that ring that is under the ball.  You don't want it too much lower and it shouldn't get lost, you'll always be able to see it.  Good spot for the mounting location.  That's where I thought you were going to put it but probably misunderstood you. 

LOL!  1 - 2" bolt and 2 - 2" screws sounds just about right.

Teak looks like it's in great condition and that mockup flag is awesome.  I'll have it finished up by the end of the week and post a finish picture before I send it off to you.  Still have a bit more sanding to do to really smooth it out and get rid of a few, stubborn scratches here and there.  Plus I'm going to put a short, female, threaded bar in the stem to receive that lock-tightening screw on the socket.  We don't want that digging into the wood until it wears it out and then it ends up not holding anymore.  This way you lock it in mechanically and it stays there and never wears out or pops out.

No this flag looks perfect.

The center of the top mounting ring is 1" away from the top edge of the flag.

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27 minutes ago, Hatem said:

cyanoacrylate

Never heard of it. Looks great. Regular paint store like Sherwin Williams or...?

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6 minutes ago, Curt said:

Never heard of it. Looks great. Regular paint store like Sherwin Williams or...?

Just the fancy, scientific name for super glue, except we use the really thin stuff so it penetrates and acts just like a clear sealer.  Then dries really hard like a rock just like super glue does.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Cyanoacrylate-Quick-Set-Medium-Adhesive/dp/B001I9UMQ4/ref=asc_df_B001I9UMQ4/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584276296406267&psc=1

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2 minutes ago, Hatem said:

Just the fancy, scientific name for super glue, except we use the really thin stuff so it penetrates and acts just like a clear sealer.  Then dries really hard like a rock just like super glue does.

Thank you. I use the stuff when I cut myself, but never on wood. To the garage I go...

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On ‎4‎/‎9‎/‎2019 at 9:35 PM, Denny said:

No this flag looks perfect.

The center of the top mounting ring is 1" away from the top edge of the flag.

Denny, PM me a mailing address, buddy.  I'll give you mine so you know who and where it's coming from when you get it.  Although I'm guessing when you get a 4ft long box via UPS, you'll probably know what it is! :) For all your tireless and awesome help with the windlass.

I'll post pics of it when it's all done.  I'm heading up to West Marine in a little while to pic up some resin and other stuff to finish up the windlass glassing today and I'm looking for some other stainless steel stuff I want to use on the flagpole, but I should have it all finished up and buffed out and sent to you this week.  I'll post some pics of it when it's all done and definitely post a pic when you mount it. 

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On 4/14/2019 at 9:24 AM, Hatem said:

Denny, PM me a mailing address, buddy.  I'll give you mine so you know who and where it's coming from when you get it.  Although I'm guessing when you get a 4ft long box via UPS, you'll probably know what it is! :) For all your tireless and awesome help with the windlass.

I'll post pics of it when it's all done.  I'm heading up to West Marine in a little while to pic up some resin and other stuff to finish up the windlass glassing today and I'm looking for some other stainless steel stuff I want to use on the flagpole, but I should have it all finished up and buffed out and sent to you this week.  I'll post some pics of it when it's all done and definitely post a pic when you mount it. 

Some retro fitting done to mount Hatems flag pole. 1st had to relocate this.

IMG_9702.jpgNext repair area.

IMG_9773.jpgIMG_9777.jpgMade a new mount, no holes and it can be mounted anywhere on the taft rail, made 4 of them.

Posted this to maybe give someone out there an idea that may work for their purposes.

I made this, because my searches did not turn up anything like it, that would work for me.  Denny

IMG_9776.jpgIMG_9775.jpg

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On ‎4‎/‎15‎/‎2019 at 8:41 PM, Denny said:

Next repair area.

Nice plug job!

On ‎4‎/‎15‎/‎2019 at 8:41 PM, Denny said:

Made a new mount, no holes and it can be mounted anywhere on the taft rail, made 4 of them.

Posted this to maybe give someone out there an idea that may work for their purposes.

I made this, because my searches did not turn up anything like it, that would work for me.  Denny

Most definitely.  What is that, GoPro stand mount?

BTW, just a quick update: I decided to use Marine spar varnish on the mahogany and not the cyanoacrylate because the latter, while very strong and effective, doesn't have good or even any UV rating.  And since it's an acrylic, the chances of it whitening from the sun and elements are higher.  If it was something that stayed indoors, then it would be fine. But the spar varnish looks excellent in a gloss finish and will last for a really long time.  It's also super easy to reapply new coats after a few years. 

All I have left is the final coat, I have to add a bit of 5-minute epoxy to the recessed nuts that bolt to the screw eyes for the flag AND, I have to find a threaded insert that is 1/4-28 thread for the pole lock screw.  I went everywhere on Sunday looking for that size threaded insert and for some bizarre reason, they only carry 1/4-20 which seems to be the most common and couldn't find anything in 1'4-28.  That is a must since the thread on that screw handle threads through the mount and also needs to lock into something solid (such as this stainless steel insert) because the wood will just wear out in not time at all.  If I can't find one in the next day or two, I'll just put a metal ring around the stem so you can tighten up the screw handle to that instead of raw wood.  I'll post a pic of a bit later today.

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16 hours ago, Denny said:

Some retro fitting done to mount Hatems flag pole. 1st had to relocate this.

IMG_9702.jpgNext repair area.

IMG_9773.jpgIMG_9777.jpgMade a new mount, no holes and it can be mounted anywhere on the taft rail, made 4 of them.

Posted this to maybe give someone out there an idea that may work for their purposes.

I made this, because my searches did not turn up anything like it, that would work for me.  Denny

IMG_9776.jpgIMG_9775.jpg

Denny, how often do you treat that teak? Daily?  Man, that looks good.  :beer-7687-1:

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It does look amazing.  That's the result of good care and regular maintenance.

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2 hours ago, Water Dawg 6 said:

Put a naked female on the bow

Why stop at 1?

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On 4/16/2019 at 12:58 PM, tomnjo said:

Denny, how often do you treat that teak? Daily?  Man, that looks good.  :beer-7687-1:

Thanks.

Actually I totally redid it down to the bare wood in 92, when I first got her, with 3 coats of Sikkens Cetrol.

Every few years I put on (what they called a maintenance coat).

The winter layup of 2017 I put on the 3rd one, and ran the season of 2018.

The bottom has never been redone. And still looks like the day that I did it. NO sun rays, and it does appear to be effected by water.

I believe one of the reasons it has held up so well is, she sets in a building 99% of her life on a trailer . 

The other is it is a great product, so much that West Marine changed the label and raised the price for the same product.

This coming layup, I will strip it down to bare wood again and start over fresh one more time.

Originally in the groves they were painted black, kind of a nice contrast, but I elected to not put it back to the original design, I thought that less was more. Thought about putting it back to original this time, but it is so tedious to get those lines perfect, and I'm like Hatem, if I can't make it perfect, I'm not doing it.  Denny.

Bottom view, 26 yrs later. No maintenance coats, original 3 coats. No direct sun, only water, with no effect.

IMG_9801.jpgIMG_9782.jpgIII

I still think, Less is more.

IMG-2154.jpg

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On 4/16/2019 at 8:09 AM, Hatem said:

Nice plug job!

Most definitely.  What is that, GoPro stand mount?

BTW, just a quick update: I decided to use Marine spar varnish on the mahogany and not the cyanoacrylate because the latter, while very strong and effective, doesn't have good or even any UV rating.  And since it's an acrylic, the chances of it whitening from the sun and elements are higher.  If it was something that stayed indoors, then it would be fine. But the spar varnish looks excellent in a gloss finish and will last for a really long time.  It's also super easy to reapply new coats after a few years. 

All I have left is the final coat, I have to add a bit of 5-minute epoxy to the recessed nuts that bolt to the screw eyes for the flag AND, I have to find a threaded insert that is 1/4-28 thread for the pole lock screw.  I went everywhere on Sunday looking for that size threaded insert and for some bizarre reason, they only carry 1/4-20 which seems to be the most common and couldn't find anything in 1'4-28.  That is a must since the thread on that screw handle threads through the mount and also needs to lock into something solid (such as this stainless steel insert) because the wood will just wear out in not time at all.  If I can't find one in the next day or two, I'll just put a metal ring around the stem so you can tighten up the screw handle to that instead of raw wood.  I'll post a pic of a bit later today.

Great choice on the varnish. All I have ever used on the teak is Sikkens, a little slow drying, but very durable, and easy to repair.

I trust your judgement, I know that you will figure out a way to make it secure and permanent.

The main issue, made in China, metric, verses US standard. That nightmare started for me in the automotive end in 1982.  Denny

IMG_9782.jpg

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9 hours ago, Denny said:

 

Originally in the groves they were painted black, kind of a nice contrast, but I elected to not put it back to the original design, I thought that less was more. Thought about putting it back to original this time, but it is so tedious to get those lines perfect, and I'm like Hatem, if I can't make it perfect, I'm not doing it.  Denny.

Wow, the grooves were originally black?  That must've looked really cool.  I suppose the only way to do that is use something like 5F5 and strip it clean with scrapers and putty knives etc.  Get as much of that finish off as possible.  Then sand the top surface down to bare wood and also the grooves with small, bent sandpaper and try to get as much out as possible and then paint the grooves with as small a brush as you can and not worry about getting any black paint on the top surface for now.  Once that dries, then take a flat, random orbital sander and sand off any black that got on the top surface, leaving a nice, black edge in the grooves only.  Then do the sickens.  That is tedious as heck, for sure.

7 hours ago, Denny said:

Great choice on the varnish. All I have ever used on the teak is Sikkens, a little slow drying, but very durable, and easy to repair.

I trust your judgement, I know that you will figure out a way to make it secure and permanent.

The main issue, made in China, metric, verses US standard. That nightmare started for me in the automotive end in 1982.  Denny

Yeah that marine spar varnish is great stuff.  Also slow drying like the sickens but it gave that mahogany an amazing color.  I just have the 3rd coat to go.

I did find the 1/4-28 nut at my local hardware store.  Couldn't believe they had it.  Got it epoxied into the drilled hole in the stem and it lined up perfectly with the locking screw on the mount.  We're almost there!

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On ‎4‎/‎15‎/‎2019 at 8:41 PM, Denny said:

Some retro fitting done to mount Hatems flag pole. 1st had to relocate this.

Just in time for the season, all done just a few little things I need to do to the protruding ends of the screw eyes or I might just use locknuts if I can find some shallow ones.  Those will probably be better but that high-gloss marine spar varnish is some pretty good stuff.  6 coats and it's as smooth as a baby's asss.  :lol:

I'll be shipping it to you by tomorrow, Denny.  I hung this new flag on it with just some wire for now because those flag clips that I have are VERY difficult to put on.  They're made to go on and stay on!  So I didn't think it was a good idea to put them in and then struggle to remove the flag before shipping it.  I'll send them anyway and you can put them in with that nautical flag you want to use.  Otherwise I would just go ahead and put this flag on with the clips and leave it at that, but then it'll be tough to remove it and put on the other flag.  Might as well save you a little bit of hassle.  

73ShkxG.jpg OhW5ck5.jpg

ZJSYD07.jpg 7iB4WJs.jpg

And I set the 1/4-28 threaded nut into the stem with some 5-minute epoxy and it locks the pole in very nicely and super easy to line up and tighten.  That way it won't wear out and last a very long time.

4jbxRhF.jpg

Don't forget to take pics and post them when you install it!  I have the 1 bolt and 2 screws I'll put in with the package.

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1 hour ago, Hatem said:

Just in time for the season, all done just a few little things I need to do to the protruding ends of the screw eyes or I might just use locknuts if I can find some shallow ones. 

Looks great. Awesome.

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I've used this since I've had my boat. For the railings, I sanded them all down to bare wood and used the Sikkens products. Since then I've only put on a coat every several years. This stuff holds up well.  The swim platform was the same until the Canadian Geese and ducks showed up to the party and pooped galore on it. Every year I had to sand it and redo it. The poop would "burn" its way through the multi layers and start eating the wood. I warned the harbor master that if the slip holders didn't stop feed them, I'd haul the next load of poop and sling it all over their boat. At that point, I didn't really care if they threw me off the property. This is when I got those bird spikes.  They worked good too!

For the teak inside the boat, I removed all of the pieces into the garage and sanded and oiled them and then put them back in. I haven't touched them up since. They are in good shape. Inside the cuddy, I left them as is. No sun or weather exposure.  I love my cuddy!

Hetem, your Mahogany poles are very nice. They look much better than mine does. My pole is not Mahogany though which is what makes the difference.

IMG-1303.jpg

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19 hours ago, Curt said:

Looks great. Awesome.

Thanks, Curt.  Thinking of making one for the 276.  The one I made out of purpleheart looks pretty good without any finish on it, but will look even more amazing when it gets a finish and that purple just spits out.

purpleheart-fininshed.jpg

You know they used to use purpleheart wood to make the solid keels and ribs on old ships.  Keels that were 20+" x 20+" and even thicker.  The material is superb and actually very durable for the marine environment. 

16 hours ago, SST said:

I've used this since I've had my boat. For the railings, I sanded them all down to bare wood and used the Sikkens products. Since then I've only put on a coat every several years. This stuff holds up well.  The swim platform was the same until the Canadian Geese and ducks showed up to the party and pooped galore on it. Every year I had to sand it and redo it. The poop would "burn" its way through the multi layers and start eating the wood. I warned the harbor master that if the slip holders didn't stop feed them, I'd haul the next load of poop and sling it all over their boat. At that point, I didn't really care if they threw me off the property. This is when I got those bird spikes.  They worked good too!

LOL!  Did they stop feeding them after your "warning"? That Canada geese poop and duck droppings is some powerful shhhttttuufff! :haha-7383: @tomnjo, you still have that pic of your old dock that was mine-fielded with Canada geese droppings? :D 

I've used Sikkens a couple of times many years ago but haven't in a while.  It seems to be the favorite stuff for most of you guys with teak.  I think it beats the heck out of leaving it bare and letting it gray.  The effort to maintain it like that, to me, is well worth the result.  I'm pretty sure most of all these petroleum-based finishes contain essentially the same minerals and materials in the end.  They might vary as to what solvent is used with them and their strength against UV rays and the elements in general, but I think they're all pretty much the same when it comes down to the overall makeup. 

Denny will have to keep an eye on the marine spar varnish that I used on the flagpole and let us know how it holds up.  I was told that 3 coats was more than sufficient (which is what is typical with furniture etc. when varnish is applied), but I doubled up on that considering I did a lot of sanding in between layers to get that glassy finish.

16 hours ago, SST said:

Hetem, your Mahogany poles are very nice. They look much better than mine does. My pole is not Mahogany though which is what makes the difference.

Thanks man.  The offer still stands, BTW.  I'd be happy to make one for you if you like.  We can even try to make it out of teak or any other type of wood.  This time I'm definitely using my shop lathe, though.  That homemade piece of @#$%@# rig nearly took my thumb off lmfao! :D 

I saw these at West Marine.  Looked like really dark, teak, but were relatively cheap.

LZ8il3T.jpg

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22 hours ago, Hatem said:

Just in time for the season, all done just a few little things I need to do to the protruding ends of the screw eyes or I might just use locknuts if I can find some shallow ones.  Those will probably be better but that high-gloss marine spar varnish is some pretty good stuff.  6 coats and it's as smooth as a baby's asss.  :lol:

I'll be shipping it to you by tomorrow, Denny.  I hung this new flag on it with just some wire for now because those flag clips that I have are VERY difficult to put on.  They're made to go on and stay on!  So I didn't think it was a good idea to put them in and then struggle to remove the flag before shipping it.  I'll send them anyway and you can put them in with that nautical flag you want to use.  Otherwise I would just go ahead and put this flag on with the clips and leave it at that, but then it'll be tough to remove it and put on the other flag.  Might as well save you a little bit of hassle.  

73ShkxG.jpg OhW5ck5.jpg

ZJSYD07.jpg 7iB4WJs.jpg

And I set the 1/4-28 threaded nut into the stem with some 5-minute epoxy and it locks the pole in very nicely and super easy to line up and tighten.  That way it won't wear out and last a very long time.

4jbxRhF.jpg

Don't forget to take pics and post them when you install it!  I have the 1 bolt and 2 screws I'll put in with the package.

That looks amazing!  Great job!!

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When I repaired my floor where the captains chair was bolted, I tried to find some Teak wood for trim around the new flooring. Nobody had it in my area.. Its been awhile since the repair but I seem to recall that the various specialty wood shops around here said I couldn't get it. Something about Asia. But I just did a quick search and found this website that sells it. 

https://www.woodvendors.com/

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On 4/21/2019 at 10:57 AM, Hatem said:

Just in time for the season, all done just a few little things I need to do to the protruding ends of the screw eyes or I might just use locknuts if I can find some shallow ones.  Those will probably be better but that high-gloss marine spar varnish is some pretty good stuff.  6 coats and it's as smooth as a baby's asss.  :lol:

I'll be shipping it to you by tomorrow, Denny.  I hung this new flag on it with just some wire for now because those flag clips that I have are VERY difficult to put on.  They're made to go on and stay on!  So I didn't think it was a good idea to put them in and then struggle to remove the flag before shipping it.  I'll send them anyway and you can put them in with that nautical flag you want to use.  Otherwise I would just go ahead and put this flag on with the clips and leave it at that, but then it'll be tough to remove it and put on the other flag.  Might as well save you a little bit of hassle.  

73ShkxG.jpg OhW5ck5.jpg

ZJSYD07.jpg 7iB4WJs.jpg

And I set the 1/4-28 threaded nut into the stem with some 5-minute epoxy and it locks the pole in very nicely and super easy to line up and tighten.  That way it won't wear out and last a very long time.

4jbxRhF.jpg

Don't forget to take pics and post them when you install it!  I have the 1 bolt and 2 screws I'll put in with the package.

WoW! What a gorgeous piece of art work, going to take me a little while to bring my teak up to that level. It might be easier to mount it in its own glass cabinet, and just show it. Sure is going to turn some eyes.  Denny.

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22 hours ago, TexasPilot71 said:

That looks amazing!  Great job!!

Awesome, thanks, TP.

19 hours ago, SST said:

When I repaired my floor where the captains chair was bolted, I tried to find some Teak wood for trim around the new flooring. Nobody had it in my area.. Its been awhile since the repair but I seem to recall that the various specialty wood shops around here said I couldn't get it. Something about Asia. But I just did a quick search and found this website that sells it. 

https://www.woodvendors.com/

Tough to get it in Buffalo, really?  That's interesting.  Usually these types of exotic woods are solely relegated to woodworking stores like Rockler or Woodcraft etc.  But sometimes you can find amazing selections just at specialty wood lumberyards.  But those are mostly flat boards sold in linear foot, vs woodworking stores that have blocks and thickness timber for these specialty hobbies or crafts that they sell by board foot.  A lot of guys like to turn bowls, for example, and any type of burl is a common type of wood they look for or that you can find there.  For a flagpole like that, it needs to be a minimum of 2"x2" by whatever length in order to knock off the corners and get enough material to turn on the lathe.  

12 hours ago, Denny said:

WoW! What a gorgeous piece of art work, going to take me a little while to bring my teak up to that level. It might be easier to mount it in its own glass cabinet, and just show it.

HAHAHA, nooooo!  Put it on and don't worry about dinging or scratching it lol. :D 

12 hours ago, Denny said:

Sure is going to turn some eyes.  Denny.

All the 20 year-old chicks are gonna be checking you out now, Denny. 

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12 hours ago, Hatem said:

Awesome, thanks, TP.

Tough to get it in Buffalo, really?  That's interesting.  Usually these types of exotic woods are solely relegated to woodworking stores like Rockler or Woodcraft etc.  But sometimes you can find amazing selections just at specialty wood lumberyards.  But those are mostly flat boards sold in linear foot, vs woodworking stores that have blocks and thickness timber for these specialty hobbies or crafts that they sell by board foot.  A lot of guys like to turn bowls, for example, and any type of burl is a common type of wood they look for or that you can find there.  For a flagpole like that, it needs to be a minimum of 2"x2" by whatever length in order to knock off the corners and get enough material to turn on the lathe.  

HAHAHA, nooooo!  Put it on and don't worry about dinging or scratching it lol. :D 

All the 20 year-old chicks are gonna be checking you out now, Denny. 

Speaking about checking things out, I seen this at a marina that we were at today and immediately though you and your new upcoming adventure. This is on a 42 footer, to the tune of around 12G's, give or take.  Denny.

IMG_9832.jpg

IMG_9833.jpg

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9 hours ago, Denny said:

Speaking about checking things out, I seen this at a marina that we were at today and immediately though you and your new upcoming adventure. This is on a 42 footer, to the tune of around 12G's, give or take.  Denny.

That is awesome!  That's also a very well-grinded circle around the tunnel.  A lot of the ones I've seen, guys are way over-grinding the outside of the hull and they don't need to.  All you need is a couple of inches larger than the tunnel diameter for the epoxy or poly resin to stick to and adhere.  He might have to grind out a little more if he's going to do any fairing.  But if not, that is perfect. 

Interesting part is that they haven't already drilled the holes for the prop shaft.  Sometimes people will pre-drill them on a work bench where it's easier before glassing in the tunnel.  Looks like these guys have the room to do it after and inside the boat.  I know I won't! lol 

I wish I had more time to get mine done.  Looks like I've ran out and it might have to wait until next off-season.  Oh well.  I mixed some peanut butter and rounded the inside corners of the windlass platform and glassed in all the connections and installed the windlass and gipsy and ran all the wiring etc.  I'm not going to gelcoat it yet until I try it out on the water and see how the line handles the stowing in the locker first.  If it doesn't tangle up, I'll mix some gelcoat and match that off-white color that Chaparral uses and paint it to match the inside of the anchor locker.  If it does tangle and be a fail, I'll have to pull it out and bite the bullet and go drum.

This weekend I'll be taking off the old and making the new radar plate.  I'll be really curious to see how it held together with all those cracks in it.

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