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dirkpit222

voltage sensitive relay module...please help

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Hi all,

I have a 2008 signature 290. Its been in storage for about 2 weeks, during which time ive been winterizing it. When i went to work on it today and turned on the house battery switch, the VSR lights came on. The left side was a constant red and the right one flashed a few times then went out. Also, the main panel in the cabin said fault.

Its been working great til now. There are three new interstate batteries in the boat as well.

Does anyone know why it would suddenly do that, and how i can fix it?

Thanks

Chris

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Potentially two different and unrelated issues.

Let's start with the main panel in the cabin saying fault ...

Do you mean 120V AC panel, and the galvanic isolator red fault light?

Was the boat connected to shore power when the fault light was ON?

As the VSR indicator lights are concerned ...

They usually indicate that the VSR sensed the low battery voltage and is letting the battery or batteries be charged.

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Richard,

Yes the galvanic isolator light showed fault while plugged into shore power. I suspect that my c/o detectors may have drained the batteries.

Is the galvanic fault light directly related to drained batteries?

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All the CO monitors I know can run for at least a year on 1 tiny 9 volt battery.

Check that a bilge Pump is not running. Or that is has been running so long that it is now STALLED to a stop & pulling continuous current. Computer pumps like a big RULE pump do that. I had 2 hang up on ON. Only took 2 days to run down the battery supplying it. I can not hear them start or run.

Anyone turn on something & forgot to turn it off ? Powerfull speaker systems turned down to 0 volume WILL DRAIN batteries in a hurry. Defective remote controls are another way to run down batteries. My boat runs a lot of stuff in 2 positions if the key is accidently left in the accessory position.

Any running lights left on ? Automatic light that turns on when a hatch or boor opens. Refrigerators & oven / toaster lights are good for stuck on lights.

The only thing that should be tied directly to the battery post BEFORE the MASTER TURNOFF SWITCH in my opinion is / are the bilge pumps.

It takes 30 seconds to turn off the master battery switches after a cruise. Then any run down / dead batteries are simple to find out what caused that.

You do Not need CO alarms on, with no one on board.

Hopefully when you recharge all the batteries & you will find out what is draining them with a D C AMMETER being inserted into each NEGATIVE LEAD. HOPEFULLY the stuck on part is still stuck on.

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Forgot the most obvious .1 defective new battery pulling any others in parallel with it down. Found several boats over the years with that. NO charger can fully charge the batteries then.

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The galvanic isolator red fault light is ON when either there is a real fault in shore power installation, or the shore power is not connected/energized.

No direct relation to, or caused by, drained batteries ... but ... if the shore power was not available, the batteries were not being charged when needed.

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Ok thanks Richard, just so I understand correctly...when I had the shore power plugged in yesterday, the fault light should NOT have been on...unless something else besides the drained batteries is wrong?

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Forgive me, but "No direct.........." My take is, for some reason you have a fault as Richard suggested. But now your batteries and not being charged. Your fridge or anything could be pulling your batteries down and the fault shut your charger down. I think it is the same problem, for these two thing to happen at the same time is unlikely.

Now I have mentioned this before and the engineer at Chap agreed with me. That the VSR should not be on when the on board chargers are on. Why, (as in my case 3 batteries ) because than why have a 3 bank charger. With the VSR closed, all the batteries are connected as one big bank. If one goes bad, that the rest go down with it. The VSR, should be used when charging off the engine. BUT as the engineer said, most boaters don't understand and how much money do you want to throw at it.

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Ok thanks Richard, just so I understand correctly...when I had the shore power plugged in yesterday, the fault light should NOT have been on...unless something else besides the drained batteries is wrong?

Correct, if the red fault light is solid ON, there is a fault in shore power somewhere. If the red fault light blinks ON-OFF, this most likely indicates no shore power connected/energized/breakers off/etc. The batteries could not make the galvanic isolator show fault light as there is no direct relation, logical or electrical, between batteries going flat first and the galvanic isolator showing the fault as the result.

From what I learned from your previous posts, this might be a simple case of shore power not available or messed up, and charger not charging the batteries as a result, and therefor batteries going flat.

I would address the galvanic isolator fault first and make sure that the 120V AC shore power installation, connections, and boat installation are okay. Then, I would start checking the 12V DC installation ... batteries, charger, etc. If all seems okay, let the charger do its job and monitor what is going on.

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