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Class III vs Class IV Hitch ?

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I have a 2008 256 ssi w/ a volvo 496. I just purchased a new tow vehicle, 2012 Infinity QX56.

I believe the boat weight is aprox 5400 lbs plus 1500 lb trailer...

Should I be looking at a class IV hitch ?

Any brands suggestions ?

Thanks in advance.

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Class IV is a good idea. Brand is not a real issue, just your preference and how many herds of deer you plan on spending.

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I have the same boat and I weighed it at 8550 lbs. on a steel trailer. Trailer is about 1800. So I have a class IV because Class III is 5000 lbs. max

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Get your boat and trailer weighed. It weighs more than you think, with full gas and "stuff".

brick

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I had to update the factory hitch on my last Silverado, it came with a class III, to a class IV. I ended up going with a Curt brand which seems a prevalent replacement brand. I think I paid about $200 deer for it online and installed it myself. It semed much more robust than the factory hitch it replaced. I was glad i did.

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Get your boat and trailer weighed. It weighs more than you think, with full gas and "stuff".

brick

AND what ever you put into the towing vehicle.

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Make sure the ball is rated for that weight as well. Mine is only 6K.

This is what everybody forgets. You'll more than likely have to go a RV store in your area to get a 10,000# ball and mount.

I upgraded to a Curt class 5 from the class 4 that came with my last truck. I think I got it from etrrailer. I had an issue with it after 3 years, called Curt. They sent me new one and a shipping label to send the old one back, Free.

Mine wieghs in at 8200-8400 pounds.

.

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Get a class IV, it will cost you no more money and will give you added security. I dont want to be that guy. As that truck will tow that boat. But your talking 7k before gas, water and gear in that boat, end of the day your at 8k plus. Add people to that truck your over your weight limit. Which again Im not going to be that guy. But just be sure to be careful, make sure your breaks operate correctly on the trailer. And chances are slim, but more than likely DOT would ticket you if you were stopped, and if insurance was ever to be involved in a crash or other incident you may be looking at some liability issues.

And if the trailer is steel or galvanized your probably talking closer to 2 grand in trailer weight.

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Yes, good trailer "Brakes" are a must with that load behind you..

+1

If you are towing a lot, Electric-over-Hydraulic brakes on the trailer would be a must for that combo.

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As others have said, get the boat and trailer weighed when outfitted as it would be for a day/weekend at the lake. Class IV is my suggestion as you will certainly be over the 6000lbs that the class 3 is rated for. Infinity also suggests that anything over 5000lbs use a weight distributing hitch. You also need to take into account the weight of the people and gear in the tow vehicle as this part of the towing capacity rating.

"When towing at or near Maximum Trailer Weight, the allowable vehicle cargo and/or number of passengers is reduced because it is necessary to stay below the Gross Combined Weight Rating and the Gross Axle Weight Rating. If the vehicle has cargo and passengers, the allowable Maximum Trailer Weight is reduced. See your Infiniti Towing Guide and Owner’s Manual for proper use."

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+1

If you are towing a lot, Electric-over-Hydraulic brakes on the trailer would be a must for that combo.

Good point and definitenly a positive. But I have towed much heavier without e over h and just converting from surge drum to surge disk makes a world of a difference. I would disagree that e over h is a must, helpful, but any breaking system well maintained would be a positive. breakes on a trailer still only do so much, they dont help with sway or control, or help undersized axles on the tow vehicle. Like I said before that set up would tow it and I would tow with it, it just wouldnt be ideal or my first choice. Not saying you need a diesel, because you dont.

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E over H will help you stop the trailer while backing down the ramp instead of relying on your tow vehicles brake. Where surge brakes don't. Nothing like a 8,000 lb boat and trailer dragging down a tow vehicle on a slick ramp.

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E over H will help you stop the trailer while backing down the ramp instead of relying on your tow vehicles brake. Where surge brakes don't. Nothing like a 8,000 lb boat and trailer dragging down a tow vehicle on a slick ramp.

+100

My point exactly.

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Be very careful if considering the use of a weight distributing hitch setup. They are not really meant for boat trailers that use U-bolts to join sections of the trailer together and that are meant to flex. They are designed to be used on camp trailers that have rigid steel frames to lock the two together and push some of the trailer weight forward onto the tow vehicle for better handling. Load-rite has a warning on their site not recommending the use of such devices with their trailers.

Beyond the max tow weight, you also have to stay within the max tongue weight for the hitch. This is usually not an issue as you can balance the boat on the trailer by moving forward or backward to get 7-10% of the total weight on the tongue. For class IV the max should be 1000lbs, class III is 600lbs

Like others have suggested, fill the boat with fuel and everything you would normally carry in it and get it weighed. You can visit a local moving company, they should have a 40' or 60' scale that for maybe $10 you can get a total truck + tow weight and a tow only weight so you know exactly what you are dealing with and plan accordingly.

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Great point about the dist hitch use on boat trailers Stimpy. The O.P. can also find the nearest CAT truck scale and get axle by axle weights. Initial weigh is pretty cheap and additional weighs are only a dollar or so.

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E over H would be great to have but for a 256, not totally necessary. I have 4 wheel disc surge brakes on my trailer and they work well. However, I also have a diesel pickup with the greatest feature--engine braking. When you put it in tow/haul mode, as soon as you tap the brakes, the engine braking engages. Totally slows the rig without the brakes.

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Be very careful if considering the use of a weight distributing hitch setup. They are not really meant for boat trailers that use U-bolts to join sections of the trailer together and that are meant to flex. They are designed to be used on camp trailers that have rigid steel frames to lock the two together and push some of the trailer weight forward onto the tow vehicle for better handling. Load-rite has a warning on their site not recommending the use of such devices with their trailers.

Beyond the max tow weight, you also have to stay within the max tongue weight for the hitch. This is usually not an issue as you can balance the boat on the trailer by moving forward or backward to get 7-10% of the total weight on the tongue. For class IV the max should be 1000lbs, class III is 600lbs

Like others have suggested, fill the boat with fuel and everything you would normally carry in it and get it weighed. You can visit a local moving company, they should have a 40' or 60' scale that for maybe $10 you can get a total truck + tow weight and a tow only weight so you know exactly what you are dealing with and plan accordingly.

Yup. I know a lot of guys say get a wd hitch, but like you said they really arent meant for boats, its sort of misnomer.

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