Jump to content

Replacement Bilge Pump


Recommended Posts

I scoured the feed for anything regarding replacement bilge pumps. Hence the new feed. The integrated float switch has failed on mine and am looking to replace the pump with as much or more GPM that I currently have (1000). It was enough to not only keep up with a boat launched without its drain plug, but was actually lowering the water in the bilge.

My question is on best brands you may have experience with. I can't get a read on what brand is preferred.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mass produced equipment CAN run off THOUSANDS of rejects. For a couple of years. RULE PUMPS had the computers in the pumps die after several hours of use. I know for a fact. Then they ran great for years again. I use them.

They have NO float switch. They run on 12 vdc to the computer leads of the pump...............They ALSO PROVIDE a wire to power the motor IF THE COMPUTER DIES. Works fine if needed. Done that with 2 way switch AUTO or CONTINOUS RUN.

LUCK is what modern equipment is all about.

Link to post
Share on other sites

We ran decades with sealed contacts in little glass tubes until some Gore Clone decided that if these tubes broke we would poison all the swordfish. Disregard third world countries dumping millions of pounds of Hg into the water and air. So now we have mechanical contacts enclosed in faulty plastic cases that leak. Want pictures ?.( a prior posting).One of the hats that I wore was an instrument technician. The first float less level sensors were installed in the basements of manufacturing buildings to keep them from flooding. They were more pain than women at that time of month. No rhyme or reason to what made them act up. Could be oil,debris interference or voltage. We had more flooded basements until we went back to ball floats and explosion proof contacts.I still don't trust electronics for a boat.That's why i can't say I've tried one.

So to answer the poster's question. I don't know of a reliable pump switch that I trust. Add a second one as an alarm. Then you can find out why they added the extra wire.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not long ago our fellow member Jim had a Rule switch hot and smoking in the bilge of his nearly-new boat. As for pumps themselves, Rule seems to make a good one. I have a Rule 1500 that is a solid nice pump, but I have the Atwood switch the factory originally installed. I had replaced the pump about two years ago because the Atwood pump strainer and impeller were breaking apart, but I decided against changing the switch, given the quality on new ones.

Get the biggest pump you can get that will fit your outlet hose. The smaller the boat, the faster you need to get the water out, so go big with pumps.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The integrated float switch has failed on mine and am looking to replace the pump with as much or more GPM that I currently have (1000). It was enough to not only keep up with a boat launched without its drain plug, but was actually lowering the water in the bilge.

whaaat-268x200.png

Seriously?! That would've sent me to the panic house! I've heard stories from members who said they had to drive around almost at WOT until they could beach the boat in order to keep the water from coming into the bilge because it would overwhelm the bilge when they would stop or even slow down. That must be a supersonic bionic pump, man!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I did the plug out. With my first boat. As the boat kept needing more power added to stay on plane :) Then the water sloshed up between the floor boards !!

Went to WOT & it started lowering. Fortunately I left the drain plug by the opening.

See Being lucky ALWAYS beats any other thing you may know or learn !!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry to have made this post about the terror of filling the engine compartment with lake water. I had 200-300 yards to get back to the dock and when I get in the boat to put it on the trailer, the water lever had lowered 3-4".

What I was asking about is a brand / type of replacement bilge pump. I did see a post that Rule makes a good pump. I read that some cycle every 2.5 minutes instead of using a float switch, but that sounds like a potential battery killer.

Link to post
Share on other sites

My recent experience with the factory installed Atwood pump was not good, so I give the nod to Rule from past experience.

The Atwood was not dependable and It was difficult to service the impeller while hanging upside down.

Link to post
Share on other sites

How long will a 1500 GPM pump run on an average battery? I know there are many variables to this question but will the pump keep the boat from sinking for hours or just run the battery down quickly with a minor leak?

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Rule COMPUTER check for water RESISTANCE against the impellor blade. If the is no resistance? it stops in 1 second on all my units

So battery drain is almost nothing . About 30 seconds per hour. VERY LOW current drain. I do not know the minimum voltage the computers will run down to.

I have all mine screwed to a thick aluminum 6" X 6" plate. I just pinch the 2 blue tabs on the side & can remove & clean the screen of crud. Easy to do without looking at it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...