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Lure8

Bluetooth adaptor added to my 243 Sunesta power source

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I just added a Bluetooth adaptor to my Sunesta 243 this past weekend using the RCA inputs on my JBL MR4.2. I forgot that this will need a power source as well. What suggestions does anyone have regarding a power source?

I really don't want to splice into any wires presently going into the radio leaving them exposed to the elements. I had thought of running wires up under the inner gunwall back to the battery box and directly connecting them to the battery using a rotary switch to turn it off when stored. I know it would be easier to pull power off the radio somehow, but I'm hesitant. I'm good at remembering to dis-connect the power when docked, but I'm not much of an electrician!

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I just added a Bluetooth adaptor to my Sunesta 243 this past weekend using the RCA inputs on my JBL MR4.2. I forgot that this will need a power source as well. What suggestions does anyone have regarding a power source?

I really don't want to splice into any wires presently going into the radio leaving them exposed to the elements. I had thought of running wires up under the inner gunwall back to the battery box and directly connecting them to the battery using a rotary switch to turn it off when stored. I know it would be easier to pull power off the radio somehow, but I'm hesitant. I'm good at remembering to dis-connect the power when docked, but I'm not much of an electrician!

Yes, I would slice into it. If it is done right, it should not be exposed but sealed.

There are many ways to do this. You could solder them and use a adhesive heat shrink tubing.

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When i hooked up my fusion BT i used the amp remote output on the head unit. Can you use that?

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Ok, I guess if I used the snap together splices I would feel confident doing it. It's very difficult to get to the amp to splice onto those wires. I do have a light fixture in the head that has a hot and neutral I can easily splice into. I'm not worried about it being tied to the ignition switch since it draws so few amps and will be de-powered when i turn off all power when docked.

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That is a standard automotive connector that you can get anywhere. Also, It does not seal the connection.

You can also use water tight "butt" connectors. The ends have heat shirnk tubing on them.

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That is a standard automotive connector that you can get anywhere. Also, It does not seal the connection.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but there's nothing to seal using these connectors is there? Isn't the insulation penetration so minor that it "self-seals"? They are marine-rated. I wasn't concerned with mine since it was in the cabin and wouldn't be prone to a moist environment let alone actual water intrusion.

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If your Sunesta is arranged like mine, you have the stereo head unit in the head compartment with the backside of the head unit up under the sink. For mine, the aux inputs were on the back of the head unit, so anything I wanted to plug in there was kept in the compartment under the sink. Right next to the backside of the stereo head unit is a 12V socket (below the rail in front of the sink. The power source to that would be ideal. The connectors on that are just simple spade plugs (no sealing). You could make a little jumper to go between the factory power wires to the 12V socket and power your bluetooth unit. This way you're not cutting into or splicing the original wiring in any way. That's always my preferred method for any modification. Electronics change over the years, so anything I do regarding them should make the minimum impact on the original boat, and be reversible.

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I just used a snap splice, attach it to the hot wire at the back of the head unit. IMO it doesn't need to be water proof, its under the the gunnel.

.

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If your Sunesta is arranged like mine, you have the stereo head unit in the head compartment with the backside of the head unit up under the sink. For mine, the aux inputs were on the back of the head unit, so anything I wanted to plug in there was kept in the compartment under the sink. Right next to the backside of the stereo head unit is a 12V socket (below the rail in front of the sink. The power source to that would be ideal. The connectors on that are just simple spade plugs (no sealing). You could make a little jumper to go between the factory power wires to the 12V socket and power your bluetooth unit. This way you're not cutting into or splicing the original wiring in any way. That's always my preferred method for any modification. Electronics change over the years, so anything I do regarding them should make the minimum impact on the original boat, and be reversible.

Great idea! I'll crawl underneath there next week. I'll let you know how it turned out

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Lure8

The blue tooth receiver must share the same battery+ and ground as the head-unit and the rest of the audio, such as external amp. This is important for preventing unwanted noise. DO NOT use the amp REM circuit to power the BT. 1) is a "dirty" circuit in regards to audio signal processing and 2) is not intended to carry that kind of load. Use the head-unit's yellow B+ and black ground, even if it involves creating a new connections between the boat harness and head-unit harness. If the head-unit is powered through the main battery switch, then the new BT will also be.

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So you're saying I should tap into the "yellow" hot going into the head unit and the "black" ground for the Bluetooth?

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I just did this this weekend. I tapped into the aux power line running off the radio and the neutral was yellow (vs traditionally black).

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Lure8

The blue tooth receiver must share the same battery+ and ground as the head-unit and the rest of the audio, such as external amp. This is important for preventing unwanted noise. DO NOT use the amp REM circuit to power the BT. 1) is a "dirty" circuit in regards to audio signal processing and 2) is not intended to carry that kind of load. Use the head-unit's yellow B+ and black ground, even if it involves creating a new connections between the boat harness and head-unit harness. If the head-unit is powered through the main battery switch, then the new BT will also be.

Good advice. I have a that problem in my truck. I had tapped into the old factory head unit to make an auxiliary input to plug in my ipod. That all works great, but regardless of what device is plugged into the auxiliary input, if that device is powered through an adapter into the lighter socket, I get a distinct but quiet alternator whine while the motor is running. I'm assuming by your post that tapping a power source for the ipod into the the same power source as the factory stereo, I could likely eliminate that whine?

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I some ways in the past few post, I think you guys over think this.

I would keep to the manual. Note that they are showing that the BT100 is powed by the AMP ON trigger. Why, because when the deck is OFF the BT100 will be off too, saving power. Also, with that in mind the BT100 can not be pulling that much power anyways. Myself, I would add a fuse, there not showing one.

I would not be worried at all about wiring mods. As time goes on, yes we will add & replace any piece of equipment. As long as your connection are soild and watertight were needed.

In some cases you can install a BUS bar and use ring connectors to make or break your connections. As in: http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|328|2289986&id=2289987

These are great and more so for the Neg connections since there all common to each other.

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So you're saying I should tap into the "yellow" hot going into the head unit and the "black" ground for the Bluetooth?

Yes

I just did this this weekend. I tapped into the aux power line running off the radio and the neutral was yellow (vs traditionally black).

Not sure what you mean by aux power line. The boat side of the head-unit harness could be yellow, but the head-unit's ground IS black and its B+ IS yellow. Thats the circuit im referring to.

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Why, because when the deck is OFF the BT100 will be off too, saving power. Also, with that in mind the BT100 can not be pulling that much power anyways

Ding ding ding, no more callers folks, we have a winner! Those BTs dont draw much, so no harm in having them on a constant B+ thats through the master switch, same as the head-unit. But 2 things. 1) rest assured, that BT ill draw more then a head-units AMP turn-on circuit is intended to carry and 2) That circuit can lead to some unwanted noise.

If you want the BT only one when head-unit is on and off when the head-unit is on, then use a relay that powered by the yellow B+ and triggered by the amp turn-on.

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