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Mr. Bill

Bennett trim tab installation... and here we go.

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I am starting my Bennett ST-16 trim tab installation. I know its over kill but I saw in some thread that the dual actuators are slower, so I figured the bigger tab should react slightly better for its relative movement. Also they were not much more money and they do look sweet but I do have some questions

First question, should I use 5200 or 4200 to attach the tabs and actuators? The tabs seems like my kids could use them as a step and I want to make sure they are sturdy but I am concerned about replacing parts if needed.

Second question. The hull is not perfectly flat and when I lay the hinge bracket in there positions there is a slight gap on either end. Maybe 1/8"... The bracket will bend but will the hinge still work?

I will post pics if any one is interested.

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You need to use 5200 on thru fittings. If you lay a good bed of the 5200 under the hinge bracket, it will be flat enough to work. Take your time and measure twice. Trust me, I zoned out someone and ended up mounting mine too far in. They work fine so it's no biggie but I'm still pissed at myself for being such a moron!!

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Now I'm not 100% sure about this but I think that those sport tabs are for boats that have dead flat transoms....... your transom if it like my 265ssi is not dead flat. So what will happen is as the tab goes down it will not be in line with the flow of water past it and kick up a lot of spray or something like that.

I have 12x12E's with shorty actuators on them and they work just fine.

Hang on a few hours and see what others have to say.

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I am starting my Bennett ST-16 trim tab installation. I know its over kill but I saw in some thread that the dual actuators are slower, so I figured the bigger tab should react slightly better for its relative movement. Also they were not much more money and they do look sweet but I do have some questions

First question, should I use 5200 or 4200 to attach the tabs and actuators? The tabs seems like my kids could use them as a step and I want to make sure they are sturdy but I am concerned about replacing parts if needed.

Second question. The hull is not perfectly flat and when I lay the hinge bracket in there positions there is a slight gap on either end. Maybe 1/8"... The bracket will bend but will the hinge still work?

I will post pics if any one is interested.

The contour is slight and the actual will be less than the apparent once you torque down the screws tight as the tab hinge will deflect a bit. That said you will still have a slight gap, and that is the reason to use 5200, as it is structural, and not just a urethane sealant like 4200. Locate your hinge plates with masking tape then drill and countersink all the mounting holes. Mount the hinge backing plate to the hull using two short screws, and carefully tape around the outside edge, as 5200 is a bugger to clean off. Bed the tab in a good thickness of 5200, cutting in the edges with a puddy knife as you slowly tighten the screws. When the plate/screws fetch up, slowly remove the tape and you will have a perfect caulk joint. Just be sure to mask off both the hull and the tab.

I'd be interested to see a sport tab without turned down edges. Never saw one. I like that offering but as you know the turn down will not work on a canted transom. Make sure you mount them as far out as the hull contours will allow.

W

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One trick I was taught with drilling into fiberglass, start the hole with the drill in REVERSE, this tends to cause less of the area around the hole to crack or flake.

I had my tabs installed while it was at the shop for a major engine repair (rear main seal), they didn't mount them as far out as I would have liked but they told me where they mounted them between the strakes and on a flat plane would be a better fit. I hope they are right.

Good luck with your install!

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I've measure several times yesterday and mocked it up with a level and the appropriate spacers. I'm feeling pretty good about the location. And if I understand correctly I will not tighten it down flat but tighten it snug and allow the 5200 to fill the small gap.

For some reason I can't post pics. The computer locks up and I have to go back in the browser just to continue. I will have to try on the home computer.

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Goggle chrome worked for the pic. Here is a pic of the bracket taped to the hull. I did get the shorter actuator, which allows me to mount it farther out.

FA554022-10E9-444D-9DCB-301683935DFB_zps

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I followed Wingnut's recommendations to a T, using the masking tape, etc. My install came out great, I just mounted them between the strakes as MightyS4 described above. I planned to mount them further out but flaked out a bit when I actually did it! But they still work very well. I also had mine powder coated black for a much nicer look.

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I am starting my Bennett ST-16 trim tab installation. I know its over kill but I saw in some thread that the dual actuators are slower, so I figured the bigger tab should react slightly better for its relative movement. Also they were not much more money and they do look sweet but I do have some questions

First question, should I use 5200 or 4200 to attach the tabs and actuators? The tabs seems like my kids could use them as a step and I want to make sure they are sturdy but I am concerned about replacing parts if needed.

Second question. The hull is not perfectly flat and when I lay the hinge bracket in there positions there is a slight gap on either end. Maybe 1/8"... The bracket will bend but will the hinge still work?

I will post pics if any one is interested.

I used 5200 to install my Lenco 12x12s. For a 246 I didn't see any selection charts that came up with anything more than a 12x12. I have the newer WideTrack hull with integrated swim platform so I had to use the shorty actuator. Works fine.

I would NOT use my tabs as a step, however. Seems like a bad idea to me....

One trick I was taught with drilling into fiberglass, start the hole with the drill in REVERSE, this tends to cause less of the area around the hole to crack or flake.

I had my tabs installed while it was at the shop for a major engine repair (rear main seal), they didn't mount them as far out as I would have liked but they told me where they mounted them between the strakes and on a flat plane would be a better fit. I hope they are right.

Good luck with your install!

I did that, too. Put a strip of tape on the hull where I drilled and reversed for a few revolutions, then went to forward. Worked like a champ. Similarly, I was not able to mount as far outboard as I would have liked, but I did mount as per the Lenco instructions wrt positioning from the strake (manual diagram up near top of this thread http://forum.chaparralboats.com/index.php?showtopic=25938

)

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Well the weather gave me just enough time to get the tabs mounted and that's about it. We don't typically get the boat in until schools out anyway and I have several other projects for it any way. I really did not want the 4200 to show on the hull but I noticed right away that I had a tough time removing it without making a mess so I just smoothed it out and called it done. Hopefully I can get the rest of the install completed in the next couple days.

nkdenton, my intention is for the kids NOT to use the tabs as a step but lets face it, they are kids. I just noticed how convenient it would be for them to use it to get on the swim platform. I wanted to make sure they are secure just in case they decide not to listen to me... LOL.

CE664FF5-B6AF-4F1A-9EB9-AE081731E1B4_zps

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Looks good, but what does the lip do on the tabs? The stainless smart tabs i ordered have them and ive been talking to nauticus because the stainless tabs dont clear my swim ladder. Nauticus told me i can cut the tabs to a smaller width to fit my boat, but i was wondering if the lip served any purpose? Bennet self leveling tabs dont have the lip btw.

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These things are beefy! I have not seen the regular tabs but these seem pretty thick and the powder coating is beautiful.

I also bought the electronic indicator kit and it has the auto retraction. The helm controls has 2 wire that need to connected. See below. i am not sure exactly what wires they mean. I understand the ignition wire. That just drops power when the key is off. This one I am running thru a switch so I don't always have to use it but the other one has me a little confused. Do they want the power for the light on the gauges? Or maybe just another switched power wire. FYI I have been an electrician for 25 years. But have limited wiring experience for cars and boats. Very similar but still different.

From the instructions-

  • Purple wire with inline 1.5 amp fuse: Connect to ignition switch or any 12 volt circuit that turns ON and OFF with ignition. This wire is used to initiate Auto Tab Retraction when the ignition is switched to the OFF position. If Auto Tab Retraction is not desired this connection may be omitted.
  • Orange wire with inline 1.5 amp fuse: To source that supplies power to boat’s electronics and or gauges. This wire switches the display system and must be installed.

My second question is on the retractor relay. This relay is located next to the pump. It has a short cable. I am thinking this power must be direct powered? If so I was thinking of adding a breaker in the main fuse block that has the bilge breaker, stereo memory etc....Its right next to it. I just don't want to drain the battery if I am wrong. Any thoughts.

From the instructions-

  • Power Cable: Attach the black wire to 12 volt negative ground and the orange wire with inline 20 amp fuse to 12 volt positive source and plug into EIC Relay Module. Power source must be capable of supporting 20 amps.

As always I appreciate the help.

This is a pic of the pump and the relay. The relay wires to the pump, the blue cable goes to the helm controls and the red and orange wire go to the actuators for position indication. The orange and black are power as noted in my second question.

BAF2D04B-43E5-4813-8E56-12E0DCC3CB80_zps

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"My second question is on the retractor relay. This relay is located next to the pump. It has a short cable. I am thinking this power must be direct powered?"

Yep, both the up relay and the down relay components needs direct power to operate, knowing the 20 amp source is necessary. Your trim switches will be energized from another source, whether key switch energized or not.

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Have you drill a hole yet for the switch? I fixed mine here in my 265. Easy to control in a rough sea as you can rest your arm against the side of the boat as you operate the switch. You might have to reduce the length of the 2 top fixings and be careful not to drop the plastic nuts.

I think that both orange and purple go to the same supply (switched live at the helm)

DSCF0397_zpsuyp9zdqf.jpg

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Very good information to a bunch of questions I was going to ask thanks fellow boaters 

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