Duane2135

OMG blew another coupler today

140 posts in this topic

I can't believe that I blew out another coupler. I just replaced it 2 years ago this month! I wonder if my former mechanic used some kind of crappy coupler from china while charging me for an oem?

I'm out of my mind knowing that the engine is coming out for the third time in the last 6-7 years!!!

I'm done with I/o's. Next boat is a jet, outboard or inboard. But to be honest, I may take a few years off from boats ;(

We were pulling up to the dock to load the boat, after dropping of my driver I put it in reverse and heard a winding noise no thrust in either forward or reverse. At least I didn't need a tow, lol.

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That's insane. I've never heard of serious issues with two couplers going in that short of a period. Obviously it wasn't done right...Hope you get her fixed and give her another shot. Maybe you could retro mount a big block bravo stainless steel coupler? Maybe it's time to drop in a new motor altogether considering your rusty spark plugs as well? I bet the mechanic put your new coupler on and didn't check alignment. Your alignment could be sagging from soft motor mounts.

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Coupler failures are rare. They are missing something. The couplers for the big block engines are stainless, not aluminum and that's a nice upgrade, but either the alignment is terrible, you have a cracked transom plate, or a failed motor mount. Something is not right here. I cant believe the gimbel bearing did not fail. Are you using an extreme pressure grease on the coupler? Spline applications won't tolerate a simple multi-purpose lube. W

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Coupler failures are rare. They are missing something. The couplers for the big block engines are stainless, not aluminum and that's a nice upgrade, but either the alignment is terrible, you have a cracked transom plate, or a failed motor mount. Something is not right here. I cant believe the gimbel bearing did not fail. W

+1 this whole post. While I/o's do have more parts, something is seriously wrong with your drive shaft parts. This isn't the norm, hope you get everything right!

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You may need a new mechanic. First.

Need to find what is destroying the drive. BEFORE another coupler is installed.

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I'm not taking it to the same mechanic. I've had some recent troubles with him when I had my brothers boat there. In my brothers case, we had to pick up the boat after 7 months of getting nothing done, and that was in the winter before he got busy. The guy had a million excuses for his lazyness. As it turned out my brothers o/b had thrown a rod, and that diagnoses took the full 7 months to get, and we only got it because I started dropping by his shop weekly to get updates. I had to because he was dodging my brothers calls and never called my brother back and my brother lives and works out of town. This a-hole really embarrassed me. My brother used him based on my referral, then he treated my brother like crap. When my brother called him to tell him to just replace the whole motor with a new one, the guy wouldn't let my brother get a word in. He told my brother that he didn't have time to talk and that he needed to return a call to someone else. My brother blew his top, called me and we picked up the boat without the powerhead attached. We threw the tools aside and left the cowling, hooked up and left. I thought it might get physical for a moment. This guy even tried to tell my brother that he called back, but couldn't leave a message because my brothers voicemail wasn't set up, lol. We got a good laugh though because when the table was turned and mechanic wanted something, he figured out to use the phone. We took the boat to my house to fix his trailer lights. By the time we got to my house (10 min), this bozo called my brother and leaft a voice mail, demanding he come back and pay a disassembly and diagnostic fee of $350.00 or he would keep the engine parts we left, LOL. I thought this guy was lucky my brother didn't sue for loss of use, after all the mechanic originally said it would only take two months to fix or replace the motor.

Three weeks after taking the boat to another shop in June (read busy season), my brother had it on the water with a brand new 4 stroke outboard.

I honestly think my old mechanic may have developed a drug problem after his last divorce. The signs are there and his new girl friend runs interference for him now at the shop. She shows signs of drug use as well.

Problem is I haven't found a new shop. I may try the local Chap dealer who's over an hour away at Plano Marine. It's just that I'm gun shy of dealerships, I've been taken for a ride before at Marine Maxx when they tried to stick it to me. My estimate to replace my gimbal ring grew from 2700 deer to over 6500 doe's, once they had it all apart. Then they tried to hold my disassembled boat as leverage. They were shocked when I threw my parts into the bed of my truck and paid them their inspection fee, hooked up and left. That was when I found my old tech, and for a while I thought he was really good. But he used to have good mechanic that left a year later. I wish I knew where that guy went.

I've never tried Plano Marine but I've visited with them a couple of times and used their parts department a few times and really like them. I didn't get the Marine Maxx vibe.

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Duane, you could do this yourself, just get a hoist and a $200 coupler!!! You would put way more time and care into it than some mechanic would...

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I've thought about this. But I'm not sure I'm up for it. Ive never even pulled the out drive myself, let alone a motor. Does the motor have to come out very far? Or is it just I've got to move it up and and forward a few inches in order to do the job? I know.ill need a alignment tool, but are there other special tools I would need?

But hay if a coupler is only a couple of hundred deer then maybe it will be a fall project. I haven't looked for parts yet, just too discusted to deal with it today. I didn't even clean her up, I just put her away.

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I've thought about this. But I'm not sure I'm up for it. Ive never even pulled the out drive myself, let alone a motor. Does the motor have to come out very far? Or is it just I've got to move it up and and forward a few inches in order to do the job? I know.ill need a alignment tool, but are there other special tools I would need?

But hay if a coupler is only a couple of hundred deer then maybe it will be a fall project. I haven't looked for parts yet, just too discusted to deal with it today. I didn't even clean her up, I just put her away.

You'll need an alignment tool with the gimbal bearing puller/presser from ebay for like $100 and you'll need to disassemble the whole back of the boat to get at the motor safely. The motor should really come out of the boat to do the work properly. This would be a good time to check your exhaust manifolds, valves, oil pan, starter, gimbal, and fix your alignment. There are some wires in the rear of the motor that will have to be removed. You will also have to unbolt the flywheel housing or the rear motor mounts to get the motor out. You can unbolt the motor mounts from the block and leave the ones bolted to the stringers in the boat. Adjust as needed when reinstalling. You will need a chain hoist and a nice solid tree or a forklift, tow truck, or a-frame hoist. It's a two man job, but is very doable. Just do everything over a month or so and do a little at a time. You have an offseason, right?

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Good luck Duane. I was thinking what Wingnut wrote - something is not aligned and you need to find the cause.

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Sorry to hear of your problem. Don't give up!

I am fortunate to have a great dealership ( Huggins Outboard, Albany GA) who has given me great service on 4 Chaparrals over 25 years. Please keep us updated.

brick

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I would guess that when the first coupler blew you needed a new drive shaft as the splines were worn. The mechanic reused the old shaft and the worn splines caused a repeat failure.

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this kind of thing happening to my cars and boats is why I try to do a lot of stuff myself. Like Drew said, you'll put more care into it than any ol' mechanic. And it all boils down to nuts and bolts (provided you have great help like this site).

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had a coupler go out..replaced with stainless...the issue was the FACTORY put the lock retainer on the nut used for alignment upside down..the nut moved down and made the engine get misaligned..ug...i will say we sometimes search harder for a good shop than we do for a hot date..i just lost my shop due to retirement..gonna miss that shop..now left to search for another.{ shop that is{}still have the hot date}.good luck with your search..i too have felt like unloading the chap .still glad i didnt..except for a couple things its been an amazing part of my life ..my boys were raised on it .and will probably get it when i go to the deep 6..Good luck brother!

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this kind of thing happening to my cars and boats is why I try to do a lot of stuff myself. Like Drew said, you'll put more care into it than any ol' mechanic. And it all boils down to nuts and bolts (provided you have great help like this site).

There's great help on this site? Please tell me more. Be still my old heart....

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I would guess that when the first coupler blew you needed a new drive shaft as the splines were worn. The mechanic reused the old shaft and the worn splines caused a repeat failure.

The coupler is aluminum, and have only seen the input shaft spines wear on big block engines that were not greased as their couplers are stainless, but I'm not saying it could not happen.

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Ive called local shop and they are quoting me 7-800 doe for the repair, of corse this is a blind quote. I'll be taking it by there some time this next week. They say it will be three weeks before the can get to it😔

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The coupler is aluminum, and have only seen the input shaft spines wear on big block engines that were not greased as their couplers are stainless, but I'm not saying it could not happen.

I agree. I engaged my fingers before my brain. It is not likely that the aluminum coupler splines would wear the steel input shaft splines.

Lack of grease and misalignment?

You are supposed to grease the splines twice as often if you do a lot of trolling.

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If the mechanic cannot tell you for sure what the problem was and how he fixed it so it does not happen again, sell or trade the boat. Sometimes it is the best thing to do and a great excuse to get another boat.

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Update,

Finally got the coupler removed and found I have a broken tooth on the flywheel. I also found the freshwater pump is missing a vain with a second about to rip off, also found that the backplate on the pump wis worn down with plenty of scoring. I also discovered that I do, in fact have a gasket on the manifold where it attaches to the elbow. Just got it cleaned off. New alternater is installed. I also cleaned up the engine to give it a new appearance.

So once the new pump parts and riser gaskets come in I will move the motor off of the mount and install new flywheel and coupler. Then move on to the lower unit and give it a once over, then move to replacing gimbal bearing, new shift cable, new bellows, and new trim sensors.

http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/duane652000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpspuqa87sc.jpeg.html

http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/duane652000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsxfbux5o8.jpeg.html

http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/duane652000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfapgr7g4.jpeg.html

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Well I've been replacing valve seals and have discovered that cyl #8 has ring blow by and several valves are leaking on other cylinders. So it seems a rebuild or engine replacement may be prudent. I haven't done a compression test, but will later in the week.

Makes me wonder how much power I'll gain with a fresh engine?

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Well I've been replacing valve seals and have discovered that cyl #8 has ring blow by and several valves are leaking on other cylinders. So it seems a rebuild or engine replacement may be prudent. I haven't done a compression test, but will later in the week.

Makes me wonder how much power I'll gain with a fresh engine?

I would get a long block and swap accessories if you go that route. Should cost around 2-3k.

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