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acarter937

Shore Power Operation

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All,

I need to first see if my assumptions are correct in order to know if there is an issue. I assumed that when the boat is plugged into power, you can use all of the powed accessories indefinitely? I was cleaning this weekend and the radio shut off after 4 hours. I switched the battery switches from port at house and starboard at off to the reverse and the the radio returned.

At the panel

The switch was on shore power

The meter was reading 115v

The batter changer switch was on

What am I missing? The owners manual is not very clear on shore power.

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I assumed that when the boat is plugged into power, you can use all of the powered accessories indefinitely?

Not really ... it depends on many factors. An example:

All 12vdc accessories draw combined xxx Ah.

A battery charger supplies maximum of yyy Ah.

If xxx draw is larger than yyy supply, the system runs negative power balance.

In such case, the batteries will last longer but eventually will go flat.

If you start with flat, weak, or damaged batteries ... all bets are off.

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The only accessory that is dual power is the refrigerator. It switches from DC to AC on shore power or generator. Everything else is either DC or AC all the time and when the generator is running the AC panel is feeding AC items, hot water heater, stove top, microwave and AC outlets. Like Richard said, bad batteries or over loaded DC system, example stero amp draws more than charger can supply.

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Just so I am clear. The DC items still run off the battery when you are on shore power but the charger will charge the battery or batteries as they need?

The AC items run directly off of the shore power?

Can the air conditioning, microwave, hot water heater and stove top run on straight shore power?

To make a long question short. When I'm at the dock, can we use everything and how is this done?

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Did you say you switched the port & starboard batteries on & off the house selector ? If yes ? Your selector is PROBABLY wearing out or loose connection at the back of it.

It is VERY dangerous to use tools on ANY nuts on the back of any selector switch. WINTER GLOVES PREFFERABLY a FULL plastic face shield. Or goggles that seal the open side of your eyes. A slipped tool across the + & minus cables or other metal parts that can be reached if a tool slips

Worse ? You forgot to take off rings. ( did that OWWW. ) shorted ring & cooked skin & meat. Smelled like Pork Bacon fat.

Metal chains on the neck? UGH

Going to check Selector switch cable end tightness ? Remove ALL cables from each battery. You have to label them if there is any chance they are springing around. Make sure they can NOT SLOWLY relax onto the battery posts again while you check the nuts & cables on the selector switches.

Electric gives no warning sounds or appearences just before a dead short.

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Just so I am clear.

1. The DC items still run off the battery when you are on shore power but the charger will charge the battery or batteries as they need?

2.a. The AC items run directly off of the shore power?

2.b. Can the air conditioning, microwave, hot water heater and stove top run on straight shore power?

3. To make a long question short. When I'm at the dock, can we use everything and how is this done?

1. Yes, within the capacity of batteries and supply limits of battery charger.

2.a. Yes, they do.

2.b. Yes, they can and do.

3. See 1. and 2.

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1. Yes, within the capacity of batteries and supply limits of battery charger.

2.a. Yes, they do.

2.b. Yes, they can and do.

3. See 1. and 2.[/quote

Got it!! Thank you. I will be replacing the batteries next season

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Richard, you have a way with words!! And yes I agree with you. (like you need me? :) ) Your charger should be a high end and a little over what you would think you would need. Meaning, some would say that a 20 to 25% over what your boat would use if every thing D.C. was on.

So, you need to do the math. As Richad pointed out, what is xxx? Why a high end charger, the D.C. voltage will be cleaner with less A.C. noise coming though.

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