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Bobtylerjr

2004 Volvo Penta 5.0 Gxi will not start

20 posts in this topic

Starting problem on 2004 5.0 Gxi and hoping there is someone who will be able to help.

I have a 2004 Sunesta 236, recently purchased used. Ran fine for about ten hours,without issue. Would not start on last attempt to go boating. I had both batteries tested and replaced with new 1000 CCA Interstates. I have bypassed the kill switch behind the cockpit panel (temporary to isolate the problem). I located and checked one 50 amp circuit breaker (located on back, stern side, of engine). The breaker did not feel "popped" when I checked it. I checked all fuses in the fuse and relay box on the top of the engine. I checked all circuit breakers behind dash, although none appear to even be potentially related. No breakers behind the dash were "popped". The boat has ample fuel. The fuel pumps make a noise as if they are running normally when I turn the ignition key to the first detent. I consistently get the alarm sound when I rotate the key to the first detent as well.

I am at a loss except to start replacing parts, call a mobile repair or take the boat to a dealer. I am reasonably capable of swapping parts and mechanical work but I am out of ideas in terms of further diagnosing the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

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I would check and make sure that you are getting spark from the distributor. If you are, then I would concentrate on fuel supply.

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So it cranks but will not start, correct?

Grab some carb cleaner and spray it into the air intake. Then try starting it. If it starts briefly, fuel issue. If a few tries of this and it does not start briefly, likely a spark issue.

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Paul's comment is right on. I use a squirt oil can full of gasoline and open the throttle valve, remove the flame arrest-or, and squirt about 1 teaspoon of fuel into the air intake. If she starts for a few seconds, you have a fuel issue. If not, remove a plug wire from a plug and insert a small screw driver into the terminal. Hold it 1/4" from the engine block and have a friend crank the engine. If the spark is strong and blue, ignition is likely fine. If it's yellow or non-existent, then it's time to inspect the cap, rotor, and ignition module. There is a relay affixed atop the engine marked MAIN that controls the ignition circuit and another one that runs the electric fuel pump. Another place to check. W

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Just attempted to start using staring fluid. The engine turns strong and there was one significant "pop" but no start/run at all. I am going to make another attempt in a few moments just to confirm.

I wanted to clarify that I am adding the starting fluid correctly to the throttle body... The throat with the hinged valve is closed when I add two brief shots of starting fluid. I attempted to gently rotate it, using very little force by pushing on one side, the valve open and it would not move so I stopped. I was not sure if the starting fluid needs to be in the open throat or if simply adding a couple shots (sprays) of the fluid to the closed throat would suffice. After the start attempt that resulted in one "pop", the throat was closed and wet but not soaked. Sorry for all the detail but I am trying to be as descriptive as possible since I cannot show you video and to avoid confusion.

I will let you know how my next attempt goes shortly. Thank you.

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Second attempt to start using starting fluid... I opened the throat of the throttle body using the power lever at the helm, sprayed two good shots of fluid into the open throat, returned the power lever to the neutral position (closing throat) and attempted to start. The result was no start/run or "pop". I will now check the spark and report back.

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Second attempt to start using starting fluid... I opened the throat of the throttle body using the power lever at the helm, sprayed two good shots of fluid into the open throat, returned the power lever to the neutral position (closing throat) and attempted to start. The result was no start/run or "pop". I will now check the spark and report back.

Be real careful using starting fluid on a gasoline engine as it fires under compression, being so much more volatile than gasoline. In excess it can actually break the top compression ring. In a test such as yours it really does not tell you anything either as the engine will fire without an ignition spark as the fluid auto fires under pressure. Use gasoline as suggested and you might learn where the problem lies.

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I checked the spark by removing one wire, inserting a screwdriver in the end of the wire, holding it against the exhaust manifold and observing the spark. The spark appeared blue and strong.

So to recap... fuel pumps are heard operating when the ignition key is turned to the first detent, all breakers, fuses and (as best as I can tell) relays are in order (not blown, popped, or malfunctioning). Adding starting fluid to the throttle body, as mentioned in my recent posts, had no effect.

Any other thoughts?

Thank you.

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Hello Wingnut. I did not see your most recent post warning about starting fluid until after I had completed my checks and posted my reply (above). Based on the fact that the engine did not start and the spark test appeared good, is it worth repeating the test tomorrow using gasoline? It seems that if using starting fluid is more likely to cause at least a momentary start, using gasoline may only produce the same result???

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Hello Wingnut. I did not see your most recent post warning about starting fluid until after I had completed my checks and posted my reply (above). Based on the fact that the engine did not start and the spark test appeared good, is it worth repeating the test tomorrow using gasoline? It seems that if using starting fluid is more likely to cause at least a momentary start, using gasoline may only produce the same result???

It is really easy to flood the engine using starter fluid. I'd inspect the cap and rotor internally for any signs of carbon tracking, then repeat the test with gasoline, not carb clearer as there are many variants of that on the market, some of which that are not even flammable. When squirting in the gas be sure to make sure you open the throttle plate, and remove the flame arrestor and confirm that the teaspoon of raw fuel has made it well into the air plenum. W

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i would say, NEVER spray starting fluid into a gasoline engine!!! Not unless you have lots of money and want to replace your engine. That stuff will destroy your engine in a hurry. do what Wingnut suggested.

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Bobtylerjr

The ECM has a "clear flood mode" built-in. You can activate it simply by pushing in the remote control stick at the helm all the way forward before cranking. (You need to do this in neutral by pushing in a round button in the middle of the remote lever and push forward the lever.)

The ECM will sense this and turn off the fuel injectors while cranking. The throttle will also be wide open, letting more air in. If the engine dis not start because it was flooding, after a few turns, it will start.

I am not sure if this mode is built into every ECM but I have tried it on a dozen or so boats and it seems to operates in the same way.

It is simple to do but be careful that when it starts, the engine will rev up high. Be reactive to pull down the lever to reduce he RPM.

Push the trim switch down so that your drive shaft is not suffer turning at angle.

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The Accord V6 has a 2 second 0 fuel delivery on every start. Then it fires instantly everytime . That feature WILL help if a injector is leaking down. The rough start for a few seconds, should tell the driver there is a problem.

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This is my experience with two 2004, VP 5.0 GXi, two seasons ago:

After the usual winter & spring maintenance, including changing all spark plugs with new OEM VP ones, i had exactly the same behaviour you're experiencing with the starboard engine.

In my case, we succeeded with difficulty to start roughly with the flood procedure (all accelerated in neutral) and then with warm engines no problems at starting.

At the end of craziness, and having heard of something bad in that period supply of VP spark plugs, we changed the spark plugs with commercial equivalents; result non more problems for the entire season.

I'd add that, after 50 hrs the port engine had the same issue. We changed the spark plugs immediately and again non more issues during the entire next season.

I don't know if usefull for you, this is simply my experience.

Regards. Giuseppe.

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All companies will make a bad run of their products.

The GOOD companies / marinas / mechanics, tell their customers. " We had a bad run of parts. Do you have a problem ? "

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Check your crankshaft sensor. Mine is located right hand side above starter. (loss of signal = no start) My marina tech ran the computer on mine.

Also, when this happened to me we found a loose wire in the front of the engine (white) going into the engine harness; when wiggled things seemed to sound better after we got the engine started. The wire seemed to control the fuel allocation. I believe it traveled from the fuel pump then to the harness.

Once we got the motor running, then shut it down we found it wouldn't start again all the time. The tech took off the throttle and noticed the bad connectors and saltwater corrosion.

Also, check your neutral safety switch.

Mine had two issues some bad connectors in the remote throttle and that loose wire leading into the engine harness. Replaced the wire and re-did all the connectors with marine grade heat shrink.

My boat is a 2005 Chaparral 210 SSi, Volvo Penta 5.0 GXI-e, 270 hp, SX sterndrive.

Btw...I am by no means a mechanic and claim no expertise in this area, but I am fairly good at researching.

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After much delay due to weather and a very busy schedule, the boat is running.    New set of spark plugs :)

 

Thank you very much for everyone's comments and assistance!

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