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RichMarionOhio

Anchor windlass thru-hull fitting?

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I am working on a project of installing an anchor windlass on my 205. I already have the windlass assembly which I intend on mounting inside the anchor locker. But, the system I have is more or less for deck mounting, especially the windlass retrieval bracket. I would like to make that a thru-hull unit like that pictured below. Is this part available from somewhere? This or even a smaller one? Any ideas appreciated! Thanks!!

thruhull_windlass_zpsek3hgzby.jpg

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What ever way you do it. Make sure you have a way to prevent the anchor from falling out of the boat if the anchor drive some how goes into FREE SPOOLING. If that is a possibility. Had that happen 1 time. ALL STOP " Diver in the water with a knife cutting the anchor line off the props. "

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I am working on a project of installing an anchor windlass on my 205. I already have the windlass assembly which I intend on mounting inside the anchor locker. But, the system I have is more or less for deck mounting, especially the windlass retrieval bracket. I would like to make that a thru-hull unit like that pictured below. Is this part available from somewhere? This or even a smaller one? Any ideas appreciated! Thanks!!

thruhull_windlass_zpsek3hgzby.jpg

Pursuit Boats

Pursuit is the only boat I've ever seen using that type fixture. Not sure I'd want a hole there unless I talked to Chap first. W

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Formula does a similar thru-hull as your picture depicts. Pretty sure these boats with the cutout are supported and glassed to allow for the fact the stress of the anchor is affecting the structure of the hull.

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Pursuit Boats

Pursuit is the only boat I've ever seen using that type fixture. Not sure I'd want a hole there unless I talked to Chap first. W

Bad link, W. Wondering, is it your thought that this hole (about 3/4-1" allowing for rode chain and anchor rope only) would cause structural issues? I'm not intending on allowing the anchor itself past the hull. I'll be using a mushroom type anchor. Pretty much standard where I boat (mud and sand bottom). The reason I prefer a thru-hull is that the plank mounts that are offered would obstruct the nav light and would just look like s**t on an otherwise clean bow deck.

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Has anyone seen Hatem's windlass project?!?! He is using the EXACT same windlass as Rich posted. It's from the 277 ssx...

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I throw my Fortress FX7 overboard. Works every time. Advantages of a small bowrider...

brick

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I throw my Fortress FX7 overboard. Works every time. Advantages of a small bowrider...

brick

That's all fine and dandy but mine isn't a bowrider hence the reason for the windlass. Safety and convenience.

Has anyone seen Hatem's windlass project?!?! He is using the EXACT same windlass as Rich posted. It's from the 277 ssx...

Drew, that's where I borrowed the picture.

Hatem, is this a Chap part? Or a vendor supplied item?

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Hatem will help you out. He's still working on it I believe. I think he bought one and had to modify the curve to fit his bow. Not sure if he installed it yet.

Good luck.....

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That's all fine and dandy but mine isn't a bowrider hence the reason for the windlass. Safety and convenience.

Drew, that's where I borrowed the picture.

Hatem, is this a Chap part? Or a vendor supplied item?

When I did mine I had to remove the center bow lights, and put in port and starboard lights. By the way I like the looks better. If yours is a top mount, stay with it. From my own experience, you don't want to to looking for your anchor on your hands knees while leaning over the bow. Leave that for the kids that don't mind if they end up swimming. Denny.

0909141911c_zpsbgiwfqat.jpg

0809141658_zpsakulfcev.jpg

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Wow...that sure is a shiny anchor for the mud. I like that look.

Thanks,

Back in the day, they said if it don't move, ( Chrome It).

After 2 seasons she's still standing tall. Denny.

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Thanks,

Back in the day, they said if it don't move, ( Chrome It).

After 2 seasons she's still standing tall. Denny.

I thought I maxed out the OCD'O-meter when I powder coated my trim tabs. W

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Thanks,

Back in the day, they said if it don't move, ( Chrome It).

After 2 seasons she's still standing tall. Denny.

What, you carry another for the mud? :slap:

'

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What, you carry another for the mud? :slap:

'

It's not a 10 anymore, but she is a strong 9.

She needs to look as good coming as she is going. Denny.

23 years, 1500 hrs.

0707141403_zps19914112.jpg

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I thought I maxed out the OCD'O-meter when I powder coated my trim tabs. W

Got pics. of your tabs, love to see them? Denny.

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Drew, that's where I borrowed the picture.

Hatem, is this a Chap part? Or a vendor supplied item?

Sorry, Rich, for the delay in the reply. I got it from Joe at Cecil Marine after pulling his teeth! (Figuratively). :) Because our boats did NOT come with the option of a windlass, it's tough for whomever would sell it to be responsible for anything that would happen as a result of it being installed on a boat that didn't come with that option, hence I have no part number whatsoever, I'm sorry.

I'm heading out for the day so I'll post some pics for you later of what it looks like but your boat has a sharp bow, so the flanges around that specific anchor roller (that's what it's called BTW) was designed to fit the contours of that boat which were different from my 276. So I've found several places that will rework the flange to fit the shape of my bow perfectly which will probably be something you'll need to do as well, just FYI. I could do it myself but it'll take me twice as long and a lot of elbow grease plus it will need polishing after.

The rest of the material such as the anchor, the solenoid the wiring and helm switches I ordered through the same provider that Denny has had all that success with (Anchorlift) since Cecil did not want to help with that project for liability purposes and that's completely understandable. They were SUPER to deal with and customized all the wiring for me to plug and play.

Heading out now but will give you more info like Jlai said later this evening.

Cheers.

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Sorry, Rich, for the delay in the reply. I got it from Joe at Cecil Marine after pulling his teeth! (Figuratively). :) Because our boats did NOT come with the option of a windlass, it's tough for whomever would sell it to be responsible for anything that would happen as a result of it being installed on a boat that didn't come with that option, hence I have no part number whatsoever, I'm sorry.

I'm heading out for the day so I'll post some pics for you later of what it looks like but your boat has a sharp bow, so the flanges around that specific anchor roller (that's what it's called BTW) was designed to fit the contours of that boat which were different from my 276. So I've found several places that will rework the flange to fit the shape of my bow perfectly which will probably be something you'll need to do as well, just FYI. I could do it myself but it'll take me twice as long and a lot of elbow grease plus it will need polishing after.

Thanks for the information, Hatem.

Well, it's looking more and more like a thru-the-hull for my boat is turning into a major project. Besides, without the boat here (she's still in storage until April 1st) I can't really get accurate measurements. BUT, in my sig picture, I notice that I may have some clearance issues with the trailer winch stand, so I'm thinking now that a deck mount anchor roller similar to what Denny is using might be the better idea but, even there, there is one big logistical problem in that my deck is far from level (again, note in my sig picture). There is a substantial roll-off toward the bow point edge and, of course, I'd have to change the nav light position either to a raised light or side lights. Whatever path I follow, I want it to look like it belongs there and it's not somebody's bad dream gone amuck....LOL.

Denny, what type of side nav lights did you use? Do you have any pics of them?

Thanks guys one and all for your help and suggestions!

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Thanks for the information, Hatem.

Well, it's looking more and more like a thru-the-hull for my boat is turning into a major project. Besides, without the boat here (she's still in storage until April 1st) I can't really get accurate measurements. BUT, in my sig picture, I notice that I may have some clearance issues with the trailer winch stand, so I'm thinking now that a deck mount anchor roller similar to what Denny is using might be the better idea but, even there, there is one big logistical problem in that my deck is far from level (again, note in my sig picture). There is a substantial roll-off toward the bow point edge and, of course, I'd have to change the nav light position either to a raised light or side lights. Whatever path I follow, I want it to look like it belongs there and it's not somebody's bad dream gone amuck....LOL.

Denny, what type of side nav lights did you use? Do you have any pics of them?

Thanks guys one and all for your help and suggestions!

Hey Rich, I don't remember what brand the lights are. I do know that they are LED. I will be back over to where I keep my boat in a couple of days. I'll take some pics. and get you some info on it.

Also we are practically neighbors, I am less then 2hrs from you. When you get your girl out, (and if you are willing to provide lunch, Ha!), I would be happy to come down and see what you have to work with, and give you some help laying it out. Denny

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Rich

How are you going to get at the winch & line if there is a mechanical, electrical, or rope jam or anything else ? Will all that be in a cramped space ?

Can you have a solid piece of Vinyl deck board cut on a curve to allow the anchor plate to be level. If needed.

We cut 2 lengths of PURE VINYL ( NO wood chips in it. ) deck boards, to length. Pre drilled all holes in the Vinyl spacer for everything to pass into the locker below. We added another Vinyl board under the deck WITH a full sized Aluminum backer plate to prevent crushing the Vinyl boards. Lots of little details were fitted up with 1" thick pine shelving boards planed to the same thickness as the Vinyl boards. When the pine pieces fit as desired. Then we laid the top deck piece in place & drilled away.

Took some thought and arm chair designing before ANY HOLES WERE DRILLED.

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Rich

How are you going to get at the winch & line if there is a mechanical, electrical, or rope jam or anything else ? Will all that be in a cramped space ?

Simple....open the anchor locker door.

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Noticed the Formula 330 Cross Over Bowrider also has the thru the hull anchor hole. Factory installed for 300K sardines. It must be saving them time & money to eliminate all the compound curved deck hardware.

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