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Accessory Rocker Switches on Dash - Sunesta 224

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I would like to add some LED Lighting to the transom area of my boat. I'd like to wire it to an accessory switch at the dash. Were do I find the panel to connect to?

Thanks for the help!

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Do you have an unused rocker switch on your dash or will you need too add one??

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If you already have an unused ACC switch ...

you connect power (+) red wire to the switch, and ground (-) yellow or black wire to a ground (-) bus bar that should be installed already somewhere under the helm. FWIW, you will need to crimp the correct terminals to the LED wires to connect.

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Question:

Would it be possible to swap out the switch for the courtesy light from a 2 way to a 3 way like the mooring light switch. You could wire the courtesy light to the up or down position and wire the LEDs to the opposite position. Just snap the courtesy light cover back on the 3 way switch and it would look completely stock. Assuming you don't have a free ACC switch.

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Question:

Would it be possible to swap out the switch for the courtesy light from a 2 way to a 3 way like the mooring light switch. You could wire the courtesy light to the up or down position and wire the LEDs to the opposite position.

Electrically yes ... I have wired a second (real) horn to the same circuit by using a 3 position toggle switch. You will be able to use one of but not both connected devices at the same time.

Aesthetically ... could be a problem finding the same (form and function) switch. Beside watching for correct shape and position of connection terminals, one needs to find the same lighted two way toggle switch as one used by Chap. The Chap switches are often customized and not available elsewhere. I had to use the Chap's one way switch and replace its guts to allow for two way switching while preserving Chap's unique lighted option.

Things might be different today than a few years back, and you might be able to find and order a suitable switch from Chap dealer ... good luck.

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Do you have an unused rocker switch on your dash or will you need too add one??

Yes, there are actually 3 unused ACC switches on the dash. I was just hoping there was a remote panel somewhere rather than having to run the wire all the way to the underside of the helm... I have a Lowe fishing boat that has a remote fuse panel up near the front that I can just wire accessories to...

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Yes, there are actually 3 unused ACC switches on the dash. I was just hoping there was a remote panel somewhere rather than having to run the wire all the way to the underside of the helm... I have a Lowe fishing boat that has a remote fuse panel up near the front that I can just wire accessories to...

On mine the carpet panels inside the helm are just screwed on. What boat do you have?

When I added mine all I had to do was unscrew the panel and plug into the swtch. I was already powered.

Some places I had to get help running the wires...

image_zpsbwsqu5ta.jpg

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Hi..i am a new user here. I want to ask would it be possible to swap out the switch for the courtesy light from a 2 way to a 3 way like the mooring light switch. You could wire the courtesy light to the up or down position and wire the LEDs to the opposite position.

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3 hours ago, PeterJohn said:

Hi..i am a new user here. I want to ask would it be possible to swap out the switch for the courtesy light from a 2 way to a 3 way like the mooring light switch. You could wire the courtesy light to the up or down position and wire the LEDs to the opposite position.

We have covered this already in this topic ... ;)

On 27 February 2016 at 2:52 PM, 2004lebanshee said:

Question:

Would it be possible to swap out the switch for the courtesy light from a 2 way to a 3 way like the mooring light switch. You could wire the courtesy light to the up or down position and wire the LEDs to the opposite position. Just snap the courtesy light cover back on the 3 way switch and it would look completely stock. Assuming you don't have a free ACC switch.

 

On 27 February 2016 at 3:19 PM, Richard W said:

Electrically yes ... I have wired a second (real) horn to the same circuit by using a 3 position toggle switch. You will be able to use one of but not both connected devices at the same time.

Aesthetically ... could be a problem finding the same (form and function) switch. Beside watching for correct shape and position of connection terminals, one needs to find the same lighted two way toggle switch as one used by Chap. The Chap switches are often customized and not available elsewhere. I had to use the Chap's one way switch and replace its guts to allow for two way switching while preserving Chap's unique lighted option.

Things might be different today than a few years back, and you might be able to find and order a suitable switch from Chap dealer ... good luck.

 

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Ok to clarify previous comments in this post, there is a bunch of yellow wires going to a buss bar under the help on my 2005 220SSI. This is ground?

All my switches have yellow and purple wires in the top two horizontal connections on the back of the switches. This is the power for the light in the switch itself? 

I have 3 ACC switches - are these all unused? Pulling the far right switch shows 4 blade/pins (picture attached): yellow and purple on the top two pins, orange/purple on the middle pin on he left (as looking from the back of the switch) and red (labeled “exhaust”) on the bottom pin on the left. I assume the middle pin is power and the bottom pin is load?

Is this pre-wired for this switch to operate the optional Captains Call switchable exhaust that I don’t have? If so, I can just pull the red “exhaust” wire and use that pin for my tower lights? 

Last question, since they are LED, and the switch is rated for 20a, I can skip the relay I bought to wire the lights?

E7798E62-FEB2-4895-9393-76980D2EC3CF.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Berzerkel said:

there is a bunch of yellow wires going to a buss bar under the help on my 2005 220SSI. This is ground?

Could be. Yellow is a ground color.

1 hour ago, Berzerkel said:

This is the power for the light in the switch itself?

Likely the ground for the switch illumination when the switch is activated. Most switch configurations have the illumination B+ supplied internally when the switch is turned on. 

If the switch is back lit when the NAV lights are on, then you would have switched B+ to the likely the #8 terminal. 

 

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1 hour ago, Berzerkel said:

I assume the middle pin is power and the bottom pin is load?

If you have a simple volt/ohm meter, you can confirm which is B+ supply and switched B+ for sure. 

1 hour ago, Berzerkel said:

Last question, since they are LED, and the switch is rated for 20a, I can skip the relay I bought to wire the lights?

Whats the current draw of the lights? LED does not guarantee its under 20A

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Thx WWT - 

i confirmed my hypothesis with my multimeter today and wired up my lights. My Samson LED spots are 10W spots each, so 4 of them is only 40W, at 12v is less than 4 amps. So I just left them through the switch. 

For what it is worth, the accessory switches are actually wired up for the optional accessories the factory offered. None are just “empty” switches ready for a new load. And some are wired to switch negative (2nd ACC from right on right panel) and some are wired to switch positive. (Far right ACC on both left and right switch panels). At least they were on my boat. Couple this with a bad circuit breaker and some wire connector corrosion and I had a FUN day under the helm. 

Curious what other options those switches were wired for from the factory other than captains call on the far right switch on the right side panel.

But, it’s done! Tower lights all work on switches including anchor light on the correct switch. 

 

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