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Thank you in advance to whomever answers.  I just purchased a 2005 204 SSI with only 84 hours on it.  Boat is in great condition.  I test drove it two weeks ago and ran great.  Took it out this past Sunday with no problems.  However on Monday I towed it to the highway patrol to have trailer inspected so that I can license it.  As I backed it in driveway and getting ready to go inside I hear something running.  It didn't take me long to figure out it was the bilge.  I have a switch on the dash that I knew was off but double checked and sure enough it was in the off position but was lit up red indicating it was on.  I flipped it to the actual on position and it stayed red and continued to run.  What could be causing this now constant power to the switch to keep it running?  There is no water in the boat at all.  I had to disconnect battery cables to get it off.  Any suggestions?

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I agree stuck float switch. Last summer while out on the boat I noticed my bilge light on, on the dash.  Needless to say thought it was a stuck switch and had a lot of people on board for a fireworks show so didn't want to open the engine hatch to check.  Ended up anchoring and had the transom lights on when I noticed a swirl of water under the swim platform and the o ship moment sunk in.  Moved everyone and opened the hatch and my new dripless seal was leaking like crazy.  Anchor up on a moonless night so had to take a slow ride back about an hour.  A friend was working a tow boat that night so I called him and told him I needed a crash pump quick because my high water alarm came on and I was sinking on the way back in.  Made it to my slip and was able to keep her afloat  with the pump until I could contact mechanic who did the work on the seal to haul her, this was at midnight.  Almost lost another boat last year. 

Al

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8 hours ago, BBanta said:

Thank you in advance to whomever answers.  I just purchased a 2005 204 SSI with only 84 hours on it.  Boat is in great condition.  I test drove it two weeks ago and ran great.  Took it out this past Sunday with no problems.  However on Monday I towed it to the highway patrol to have trailer inspected so that I can license it.  As I backed it in driveway and getting ready to go inside I hear something running.  It didn't take me long to figure out it was the bilge.  I have a switch on the dash that I knew was off but double checked and sure enough it was in the off position but was lit up red indicating it was on.  I flipped it to the actual on position and it stayed red and continued to run.  What could be causing this now constant power to the switch to keep it running?  There is no water in the boat at all.  I had to disconnect battery cables to get it off.  Any suggestions?

You might already know all this, but since you just purchased the boat, I figured you might be a totally new boater and not fully familiar with how a bilge pump works............

In addition to being controlled by the switch on the dash, bilge pumps have a float switch that is in the bottom of your bilge.  If the boat is unattended or the dash switch is off, but the water level in the bilge rises, the float switch will turn on the pump automatically. It's a safety feature in case water starts to build-up in the bilge that you aren't aware of.  To accomplish this, the pump is wired directly to the battery so it can operate even if the switch is off.  As others have said, most likely your float switch has gone bad or something has caused it to rise into the on position.  Not a big deal to change the switch.

 

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2 hours ago, newboat2016 said:

You might already know all this, but since you just purchased the boat, I figured you might be a totally new boater and not fully familiar with how a bilge pump works............

In addition to being controlled by the switch on the dash, bilge pumps have a float switch that is in the bottom of your bilge.  If the boat is unattended or the dash switch is off, but the water level in the bilge rises, the float switch will turn on the pump automatically. It's a safety feature in case water starts to build-up in the bilge that you aren't aware of.  To accomplish this, the pump is wired directly to the battery so it can operate even if the switch is off.  As others have said, most likely your float switch has gone bad or something has caused it to rise into the on position.  Not a big deal to change the switch.

 

+1 and man that guy Drew from Florida is something else.  Right away "Stuck float switch!" boom bang! :)  He's amazing and for his age, he's pretty knowledgeable but I also especially like the way you explained that the power is constant to the float switch and bilge pump in case the scenario you described (God forbid of course) happens and water starts coming into the bilge while the boat is slipped or unattended in anyway.  I'm a newbie going into my 3rd year and last year was the first time we left it in the slip and I didn't know about that safety feature until the dealer mechanic explained it to me and I even turned off all the battery switches and pulled up the float to see if it would kick the pump on and sure enough, it did.  So I slept much better after that.  So that was a good, valuable piece of information you just put out.

Iggy keeps telling me to add a secondary bilge and if I have the time, I will this year because redundancy on something that could save your boat from sinking is worth the weight of the boat in gold!  I'll get it done, Ig. :)

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5 hours ago, newboat2016 said:

You might already know all this, but since you just purchased the boat, I figured you might be a totally new boater and not fully familiar with how a bilge pump works............

In addition to being controlled by the switch on the dash, bilge pumps have a float switch that is in the bottom of your bilge.  If the boat is unattended or the dash switch is off, but the water level in the bilge rises, the float switch will turn on the pump automatically. It's a safety feature in case water starts to build-up in the bilge that you aren't aware of.  To accomplish this, the pump is wired directly to the battery so it can operate even if the switch is off.  As others have said, most likely your float switch has gone bad or something has caused it to rise into the on position.  Not a big deal to change the switch.

 

I was aware of the automatic bilge.  If it is the float switch, is their an easy way to reach or work on it myself?  That pump sits at the very bottom of the boat underneath the motor and harder to #$^% to get to.  I was going to try and just disconnect the wire so that I could leave power to the trim, etc. but couldn't reach it yesterday.

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Wait, first of all there are two identical threads.  We need to pick one :)

Second, in the other thread we agreed that the helm switch light would NOT be illuminated if the float switch were the culprit.  So that leaves the helm switch as the most likely culprit as also discussed in the other thread since you said the helm switch was in fat illuminated.

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It will be a long reach to get to it.   I pulled the port side storage out of mine to be able to reach mine.   Check that something isn't stuck under float.  I had a chunk of stuff get caught under mine and has same issue. 

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The pump & switch do not need to be under the engine or floors..  We move them to a easy to reach area..  3 inches of water or 6" inches. Stilll a great mildew maker if covered up for long periods.

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Thanks everyone for the info.  It was indeed the float switch.  I believe the light switch at the helm was luminated because the bilge was running.  I went and got an extender that allowed me to reach and grab at the float switch.  There was nothing underneath it but was able to push down on it to where it finally shut off.  My thought is while trailering it, it must have popped up to the on position.

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2 hours ago, BBanta said:

Thanks everyone for the info.  It was indeed the float switch.  I believe the light switch at the helm was luminated because the bilge was running.  I went and got an extender that allowed me to reach and grab at the float switch.  There was nothing underneath it but was able to push down on it to where it finally shut off.  My thought is while trailering it, it must have popped up to the on position.

So did the helm light go off, to answer TP's question?

Interesting that all that stuff is so far under the engine.  Usually the ones I've seen are right there as soon as you open the hatch, but maybe that's because they changed the location since 2005.  

Funny, these improvements we see on occasional items it seems like they're constantly adjusting as they build newer models...

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Interesting that all that stuff is so far under the engine.  Usually the ones I've seen are right there as soon as you open the hatch, but maybe that's because they changed the location since 2005.  

You can open engine hatch and look down and see mine.  But a normal person can't reach it.  Need arms like orangutan to service it from the top. :)

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3 hours ago, Brian S said:

You can open engine hatch and look down and see mine.  But a normal person can't reach it.  Need arms like orangutan to service it from the top. :)

LOL!  I guess I'm lucky, then, but I still have to reach way down low to both of those, the float and the bilge pump what I like in that pump is that I can clip it out and suck out water from deeper areas.  But still, they're in front of the engine and not under but I need orangutan arms to reach them without jumping into the bilge.  Still thinking about where to add the secondary one that Iggy keeps rightfully bugging me about.

Only problem with what you see below is the 2 transducers I have to avoid when stepping into the bilge.  UGH, life is so tough! :D

20150313_135658_zpstfotucxj.jpg

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I'm seriously thinking about adding a second bilge pump to my boat. Has anyone done that? 

I am paranoid the pump will clog or fail one day when I really need it. A backup seems to be a pretty cheap thing to add and would give me a lot of peace of mind. I already have two batteries. Why not two bilge pumps? 

If I decide to do this, will I need to run a complete second line and outlet hole on the side of the boat or could I just have a Y connector that splices into the existing line? 

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1 hour ago, TimBrown said:

I'm seriously thinking about adding a second bilge pump to my boat. Has anyone done that? 

I am paranoid the pump will clog or fail one day when I really need it. A backup seems to be a pretty cheap thing to add and would give me a lot of peace of mind. I already have two batteries. Why not two bilge pumps? 

If I decide to do this, will I need to run a complete second line and outlet hole on the side of the boat or could I just have a Y connector that splices into the existing line? 

Definitely Y connect into the existing one.  No need to drill additional holes on the outside of the hull ooof who needs that headache, right.  Guy at West Marine was telling me how to connect it so it doesn't recirculate back through the other pump.  It's simple.

The guys who have stern and bow pumps I believe have two separate discharges in most cases.  At least the ones I've seen (non Chap) do.

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2002 SSI is right in the open. Piece of cake to change or modify to a auto computer pump.

I would run a    COMPLETE separate line & switch / float setup. Use the second pump ONLY powered by your 2nd battery..

 Otherwise a stuck pump connected as a  Y  ?      WILL    blow out the 1 fuse powering both setups. That leaves both pumps not pumping.  Separate  hoses also.

 

Completely isolated, so ANY failed part in 1 pump setup can never stop or weaken the other pump.  I wire all pumps in anything separate.

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16 hours ago, TimBrown said:

I'm seriously thinking about adding a second bilge pump to my boat. Has anyone done that? 

I am paranoid the pump will clog or fail one day when I really need it. A backup seems to be a pretty cheap thing to add and would give me a lot of peace of mind. I already have two batteries. Why not two bilge pumps? 

If I decide to do this, will I need to run a complete second line and outlet hole on the side of the boat or could I just have a Y connector that splices into the existing line? 

I check mine by putting hose in bilge and running it for a while during spring prep.   It keeps up with a hose on a moderate flow.  Have forgotten the plug before and it kept up with that water intake as well.   If I were installing a second pump it would get its own discharge line as I wouldn't want any flow restriction what so ever.  Two pumps on one port would not allow for optimal flow IMO.  I never get water in bilge so one is fine for me.  

The local tow boat guys carry a container of bees wax,  similar to the wax of a toilet ring seal. They find leak and pack it around it to slow the leak to a trickle which allows pumps to catch up whenever possible. I have one in my parts box just in case we hit a submerged object.  Jump in if needed, pack wax in hole them head for shore. 

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15 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

2002 SSI is right in the open. Piece of cake to change or modify to a auto computer pump.

I would run a    COMPLETE separate line & switch / float setup. Use the second pump ONLY powered by your 2nd battery..

 Otherwise a stuck pump connected as a  Y  ?      WILL    blow out the 1 fuse powering both setups. That leaves both pumps not pumping.  Separate  hoses also.

 

Completely isolated, so ANY failed part in 1 pump setup can never stop or weaken the other pump.  I wire all pumps in anything separate.

You can power it separately like you said and all that and that's fine, but you could easily Y it into the existing outcharge tube so you don't have to drill a separate hole on the outside of the hull.

If you Y it correctly it should discharge out the same hole just fine without affecting the other pump.  A separate power source sure, but why not joint the two tubes with a Y up near the hull ejection point.  Each would have their own power source (which is the main idea) and connect it to the same hose further up near the discharge hole.  If you notice when those runs and then stops, there's always a little residual water that is left in the tube that back flows back into the bilge.  So if the if you connect it up high enough you eliminate as much residual water left in the hose (of the 2nd pump) and if your see the first being used, it always has left over water in the hose that comes back down the old pump because the hose is going up, so gravity brings it back down, so what?  That's what it does anyway but you don't want it to discharge into the bilge is the point I was making.

That's what I'm doing anyway and if the proper connection is used to join the other one up high, it would be nice to see the final few feet running down instead of up it  enties out as much as possible.  I don't think Tim was asking to use the same line right at the base of the pump!

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when my boat was built you could see where they used that spray in insulation (called "great stuff" at home depot and lowes), last summer a piece broke off and would get caught under the float, causing the bilge to run.  in my previous boat the mechanic that changed the oil, dumped a quart or so into the bilge, the bilge pump didnt like that too much.

 

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Cyclo, check this out from RULE/King Pumps website:

How do you install two pumps on a single Thru-Hull fitting? 
To install two pumps with one thru-hull fitting installation is critical. Both discharge hoses need to rise upwards as explained in Hose Installation. The two discharge hoses must rise up to the highest point possible then bend to slope down towards the thru-hull fitting. The two hoses need to merge together into a Y-Valve, a Tee fitting is not recommended. Then the single discharge hose coming off Y-Valve can be routed downwards to the thru-hull fitting. Installation in this way allows water to drain downwards to the thru-hull and not to have the ability to flow back through the other pump.

http://store.waterpumpsupply.com/morupuqu.html

So like I said, installation is critical.  I would just want to avoid drilling yet ANOTHER thru-hull hole as I have them all over the place for self bailing drainage and then you have to add a matching SS ring/cap etc, and the others have ball valve shut off's on them that confuse me when I should shut them or not.  So far I haven't shut except one at the swim platform locker and it filled right up.  I chose that one to shut knowing that if it filled up it would just overflow onto the SP and overboard.  Now I just leave them all on.  

But Tim, read all those instructions on that site to help you decide.

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You do realize shoving AT LEAST 2 X the amount of water thru the same sized hole   WILL   reduce the total output to less than each one on a correct sized hose by itself?

Worse if you put a BIGGER capacity pump into the same sized output hose.    You need to decide how much you want to kid yourself into feeling better.

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27 minutes ago, cyclops2 said:

 

You do realize shoving AT LEAST 2 X the amount of water thru the same sized hole   WILL   reduce the total output to less than each one on a correct sized hose by itself?

Worse if you put a BIGGER capacity pump into the same sized output hose.    You need to decide how much you want to kid yourself into feeling better.

Ok man.  No problemo. :)

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Just to stir the pot up a little.

ALL the BIG  backup pumps are NO float switch.  Simple ON _ OFF switch. Fused to the maximum amps. LONG hose connected to pump & left coiled on the floor. .....Toss the hose over the side & switch ON.  When I need that pump ?  I am calling my mommy's name out loud !!

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