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Tlandry

280 signature flame arrestors

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I've searched and searched and although the question has been asked, there hasn't been an answer.  During some random in water engine maintenance on my 2003 280 Signature with 4.3 mpi's, I noticed the flame arrestors dirty. Enough that they must be impeding air flow.  One minute later, having removed the 3 3/8 nuts, it was apparent that they do not come off as they do not clear the studs they sit on before hitting the underside of the deck. There is no pushing or pulling that will clear them.  I tried removing the stud (which also holds the throttle body on the intake manafold) and they cannot be removed as they also hit the underside of the deck before clearing the throttle body base.  It appears that I will need to remove the throttle bodies all together which is outrageous. The motors run great but I also know that the previous owner never replaced the cap and rotors, which is on my list, but is nearly impossible to get to.  I plan on doing everything all at once in the off season so I don't hamper the fun of the summer.  Has anyone out there  done this or know of anyone who cam up with a soution ?  My local chap dealer has only been one for a year. Great to talk to on the phone, but I was hoping for some expert advice.  

 

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7 hours ago, Tlandry said:

I've searched and searched and although the question has been asked, there hasn't been an answer.  During some random in water engine maintenance on my 2003 280 Signature with 4.3 mpi's, I noticed the flame arrestors dirty. Enough that they must be impeding air flow.  One minute later, having removed the 3 3/8 nuts, it was apparent that they do not come off as they do not clear the studs they sit on before hitting the underside of the deck. There is no pushing or pulling that will clear them.  I tried removing the stud (which also holds the throttle body on the intake manafold) and they cannot be removed as they also hit the underside of the deck before clearing the throttle body base.  It appears that I will need to remove the throttle bodies all together which is outrageous. The motors run great but I also know that the previous owner never replaced the cap and rotors, which is on my list, but is nearly impossible to get to.  I plan on doing everything all at once in the off season so I don't hamper the fun of the summer.  Has anyone out there  done this or know of anyone who cam up with a soution ?  My local chap dealer has only been one for a year. Great to talk to on the phone, but I was hoping for some expert advice.  

 

Remove all the TB studs, and cock the throttle body enough to free the studs and/or arrestor maybe? Poor design there but like most boats, maintenance seems to be an afterthought.  Not too many 280's out there.   W

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They come off.. It's tight on my 02 280 but they do come off... You have to turn them and tip them just right...

Good luck with the cap... I paid someone to do that :) .. Even with access you can't see back there....    I did have to change out a coil once and had to disassemble half the engine to get to it..

It's crazy the way these things are shoehorned in there..   But without the deck on they would be simple.  Like WN says, maintenance is an afterthought. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Scottbrown312 said:

They come off.. It's tight on my 02 280 but they do come off... You have to turn them and tip them just right...

Good luck with the cap... I paid someone to do that :) .. Even with access you can't see back there....    I did have to change out a coil once and had to disassemble half the engine to get to it..

It's crazy the way these things are shoehorned in there..   But without the deck on they would be simple.  Like WN says, maintenance is an afterthought. 

 

 

And if it has the "crab cap" as I think it might, then the stupid distributor is plastic and it is really easy to strip out the cap retaining screws. In a model year they also changed the thread so you really need to look at the old one carefully, or re-use the old screws to be sure. I found a billet aluminum replacement that I first put on my 1997 GMC 5.7 which is a really nice piece, priced right. I've since done 2 boat engines and this piece is stout.

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The sigs are great boats but the engine compartments are just awfully cramped. On my current boat I can get to the water inlet hose, coupler, trim senders, etc. and see what I'm doing just by laying on top of the motor. Cap and rotor is a breeze. Not sure what Chap was thinking with this design and I wonder if another engine like a carbed one would be shorter and fit better? 

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I have had this same problem on my '01 280 with 5.0 EFI's, and have asked Chaparral for a solution, but have not received a reply as of yet. There is an older thread on here, about a month ago, with pictures of my situation.

I used 1/8" copper tubing with a small 'U' shape on the end for my compressed air gun. I lay towels on the motor, undue the flame arrestor, and stuff a rag in the throttle body as much as possible. Then I slide the U shaped tube inside the flame arrestor, and spray them with carb cleaner from the outside. Once they are 'wet', I blow air out from the inside. You can do about 1/4 of it at at time, and rotate it until you get the whole thing. Wear glasses, because you can spray blow the carb cleaner at  yourself accidentally. It's a real PITA, for something that should be a 5 minute job, but I found it worth it. The motors run much better with air flow...

Another member here, Egan317, has a couple of friends with '02 280's that cut access hatches to remove the flame arrestors, and he promised to post some pictures. I am very curious how they did it.

I'm surprised that Chaparral didn't make the rear trunk on an access hatch of it's own, which would have made servicing the motors a whole lot easier. If anyone made that modification I'd love to see it.

Good luck,

Brian

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