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connojo

Ran 4.3L Merc without water????

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Hey people, as I said in an earlier post, I'm brand new to boats and boating. I bought my first boat on Saturday past and decided to start it up at my house for the first time since I got it home. My muffs seemed like they were on tight but when I looked they were on the ground, I'm guessing they fell off when I was turning the engine over, it might of ran for one to two minutes in Neutral, it was a cool rainy day. As soon as I seen them on the ground I immediately tuned my boat off. I put the muffs back on squeezed them as hard as I could and started it back, everything seemed OK but again I'm not sure what to look for. There was water coming out of my exhaust but one thing I did notice as it was running, the right side manifold was hot and the left was still cool to the touch. Did I just screw my boat?? how do I known what do I look for?? Thanks, sorry if some of questions are elementary.

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and I should of added that I pulled the cover and felt the engine after I noticed the muffs were off and shut it down. Everything was still cool the touch so it didn't really get warm at all.

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The engine should be OK but you will definitely need a new raw water impeller and exhaust flappers at the top of the exhaust pipe. The muffs will force water into the engine because of the hose pressure but the boats ability to pump it's own sea water is cooked. Be sure to locate all of the broken impeller blades when you replace the spent unit.

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Yeah everybody is telling me that I need to replace my impeller, where is the impeller?? is it in the outdrive it's self or on the engine?

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I Just ordered a new water kit, as for the flappers, I'm going to pull my boots back and see if they are toast. I was just told by a friend that you don't need the exhaust flappers anyway but if they were there from factory I'll be putting news ones in if needed.

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I think it was Wingmut who said there are very good clamp on hoses. they have pins that hold it on the lower unit.

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6 hours ago, connojo said:

I Just ordered a new water kit, as for the flappers, I'm going to pull my boots back and see if they are toast. I was just told by a friend that you don't need the exhaust flappers anyway but if they were there from factory I'll be putting news ones in if needed.

The flappers do help with reversion, and can prevent water from getting up into the cylinders during hard and sudden deceleration at speed. If you throttle down easy and let her idle and "quench" before shut down then they don't come into play, but sometimes that is not possible. You know, one of those HELLO SANDBAR moments. In your case, you may choose to take a chance and run without them for a time, but the problem is you don't exactly know the condition or location of your old ones. If they were cooked, they very likely they may have become dislodged and are now sitting in the bottom of the transom plate partially blocking the exhaust passage. Your pump sits atop of the lower half of your out drive and first step is to drain the drive oil, and it's a good idea to remove the prop as it takes away some dead weight. Remove the anode to expose a hidden case bolt, remove the remaining nuts, and carefully split the two gear cases apart. Replace the pump internals and carefully inspect the pump housing interior as it was run "dry". Replace as necessary.   The trick to reassembly is two fold. First, be sure the tiny o-ring that connects the upper and lower gear case oil passage is in place and stays where it's needed. Secondly, as you engage the shifter foot, make sure it is "clocked" as it was during disassembly so that you end up with a clean neutral. 

Below is a link to a muff that can't fall off.     W

 

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/flushing-attachment.html?gclid=COGorf-ghM0CFRIoaQodP7QGJQ

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Well pulled my boots up on my manifolds today and was able to get the exhaust flappers out, and to my surprise they are still intact! I pulled them out to inspect them and they are fine so I put them back in. Just waiting to get my water pump kit in the mail then I should be good to go. Thanks for the help. 

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Just me, but if your flappers are good, there is a very good chance your impeller is fine as well.

A couple of things you'll want to know about changing the impeller on an Alpha 1 Gen II drive like yours.

#1. You need to drain the gear oil out first. On older Alpha 1 MR units from 1990 and older, you could split the drive, and then plug the upper oil passage so gear oil wouldn't spill out. 1991 Alpha 1 Gen II drives make an awful mess if you don't drain the gear oil before splitting the drive apart.

 

 

 

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Supplies:

27-94996T2 or Q2 - MerCruiser/Quicksilver Alpha drive mounting gasket

807929A1 - carrier assy

small amount of Mercury Perfect Seal (for coating the drive and impeller base gasket to resist corrosion)

small amount of Mercury Spline Grease, or newer Extreme Pressure Grease for the drive yoke splines - can save your engine coupler!!

2 litres (quarts) of Mercury High Performance Gear OIl

Gear Oil pump

46-43026K06 or Q06 - impeller kit with gaskets (also comes with new gear drain screw seals)

Alpha drive impeller housing alignment pins - Mercury part # 91-821571a1 (not expensive)

Alpha drive install tool - Mercury part # 91-865232 (cheapest tool ever that is super convenient)

 

Step01.jpginstalltool.jpg

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Finally, if the drive didn't silde off the transom very easily, the engine alignment may need to be checked. Hopefully the alignment is fine.

 

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