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     I just bought a beautiful 2004 190 SSi a few months ago and immediately noticed the stock stereo could use a little boost. It would get very loud without distorting unless you turned the bass way down. So, I started looking around this forum for sub-woofer ideas. I always thought the rear bench seat was the ultimate place for a few subs. I quickly found out that a lot of people avoided putting speakers there for numerous reasons. The most talked about one was the curvature of the fiberglass panel. I found some good free air subs, ordered all my OFC wiring and parts, and with a little blood, a lot of sweat, a few tears, and numerous trips to the hardware store, I got them in there and I'm glad I did! they turned out great and don't sound half bad either. 

                                                                                                                         Here's My Story

Hey Mr. Postman!!20160603_132830.jpg

I then started tearing into the rear bench to see what I was getting into. I also wanted to get that prized fiberglass panel out and get it into my shop to work on it easier.20160607_212344.jpg

Man it was dirty in there!! Lets clean it up a bit while its easier to get to. 20160607_212941.jpg20160609_175245.jpg

I could already see that the 2x4 cross brace was going to be a problem. I later came up with a solution which you'll see below.

After getting the panel out, I started mocking up where I wanted the 2 KM10 subs.20160609_093616.jpg20160609_094444.jpg

Once I figured out where I wanted them, I taped off the area with painters tape to avoid chipping the gel coat with the jig saw. 20160609_100607.jpg

I then drilled a few holes to get the 18 TPI metal jug saw blade started.20160609_101617.jpg

This was a two person job lol!20160609_101354.jpg

Always drill gel coat in REVERSE. I changed bits here and forgot to put it back in revers. Oooops...20160609_145853.jpg

Cut slow and take your time.20160609_104211.jpg

Test fit and final product.20160609_103937.jpg20160609_113326.jpg

Next I drilled out the bolt holes progressing up in bits until they were 3/16 hole. Again, in REVERSE and slow. 20160609_150757.jpg

They are going to look good!!20160609_152953.jpg

I then started wiring everything up. This was a little tedious but not to bad. Pretty dirty in these compartments too. GOPR3129.jpg

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All the way from the battery to the port bow storage.

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I re-used the the lighted switch that went to the useless powered FM antennae (It wouldn't pick up anything...) and wired it for the 12v RF LED ring receivers.

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I had to trim the 2x4 cross brace to clear the 10" subs.

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Now the good stuff! I made some half moon shaped pieces of 1x4 PT to eliminate the curvature of the panel. I bought 3" x #10 SS bolts, washers, and lock nuts to replace the 2" wood screws the speakers came with. After wiring up the subs in a comfortable spot (I left plenty of extra 12g speaker wire for this reason), I fitted the speaker into the holes and tightened the top and bottom bolts first and then little by little tightened the other 6 together so it would pull the fiberglass evenly. It worked VERY well and looks factory from in the cockpit.

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You can see the fiberglass pulled in nicely to fill in the 1/2" gap the curve made. I was worried it might spider crack but the pressure was pulled evenly and worked like a charm. After both subs were in place, I wired up the LED's and tied everything up nice. Here's the final product!!

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The cool thing about the Kicker KM series speakers, is they come with a static LED wiring harness. I elected to get the remote and RF receiver which allows me to choose from 20 colors and 19 different lighting modes from strobe, fade and color change. As well as 6 or so different speeds for a true custom look. Here a just a few of the colors. They look really good a night. Lights up the cockpit area well. The LED's are even bright enough to see in the daytime!

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If your looking for a good free air sub, check these out. They sound really good without enclosures! I might build boxes for them one day since the lowest tone I could get to run smooth was 37hz! With a good sealed box, the specs say you can get as low as 20hz!!

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Now the amp was tricky... I don't have storage space in my consoles like a lot of other boats, and have some sort of rock hard "box" in there anyway, so cutting some is out of the question. I wanted to re-purpose my old MTX Audio 4002 600w 2 channel amp from my highs school days, so since its not a marine amp, it had to go in a dry place. I was able to wire it up on the port bow seats and slide it up onto the 'Mystery Box' and put 2 SS screws in to hold it in place. Worked out good.

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When you open up the port bow storage seat, all you see are the RCA's. No storage space was lost in that compartment. The front bins seem to get used the most for towels, shoes, bags, and whatever other OK to get wet stuff we bring on board.

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I looked around for quite awhile, asked questions in other posts, and finally came up with a game plan. I'm happy with the install and I hope it helps someone else too! They sure make a big difference in sound quality!!

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3 minutes ago, VAboater said:

thanks for posting your journey.  I am trying to learn.  Do you have just one battery on your boat?  My question is basically at what point you have to make the leap to a second battery?

You make the leap as soon as you have $300-$400 for it. I only have one battery in mine now but will be adding a second battery and a Blue Sea Add-A-Battery very shortly. It will allow me to completely isolate the house from the starting battery and never run the house dead. It'll run for a few hours without the danger zone hitting but I never chance it right now. 

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2 hours ago, VAboater said:

thanks for posting your journey.  I am trying to learn.  Do you have just one battery on your boat?  My question is basically at what point you have to make the leap to a second battery?

Do you own a boat? Do you take it out on the water? If you can answer yes to these two questions, you git that point of needing dual batteries. 

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Ceobra,

Looks like it turned out well. That was one scary gap between the woofer and deck. Two things throw up a red flag for me. Flexing of the deck enough that it pulled up to the woofer or did the woofer basket flex to meet the deck. Both are going to be an issue long term i feel. Distorted basket is likely going to lead to a failure in the surround or motor. 

 

I hope not, just a concern. 

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14 hours ago, Was_Wylie_Tunes said:

Ceobra,

Looks like it turned out well. That was one scary gap between the woofer and deck. Two things throw up a red flag for me. Flexing of the deck enough that it pulled up to the woofer or did the woofer basket flex to meet the deck. Both are going to be an issue long term i feel. Distorted basket is likely going to lead to a failure in the surround or motor. 

 

I hope not, just a concern. 

The wood backer boards I made force the fiberglass panel to pull forward with each turn of the elastic stop nut instead of warping the woofer to the panel. Tom is right, the panel as only about 1/8" thick so it gave enought to pull flush with the woofer. I tested the rigidity of the panel when it was on he saw horses and I was almost able to duplicate the bend by hand even before making any cuts. It's a fairly rigid panel, but when j inspected it closely, I found it was only several layers of fiberglass and the normal two layers of gel coat. It was strong but still flexible enough to create a nice flush look. 

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This is great write up, I am going to duplicate this as my Bozooka tube in the engine compartment is not cutting it when underway  (works ok when when on the hook listening to tunes).  My bench seat is similar to yours. 

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