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We trailer our Sea Ray 260DA and I have been watching my two big bunks knowing I needed to change them out soon. I decided to tackle the job. I had a time finding 4"x10"x10' lumber, but finally found a guy with a saw mill that would cut them for me with the necessary 21* bevel to match my deadrise. They were cut out of green white oak and you can imagine how heavy they were. 

Bunk glides have always intrigued me so now was the perfect time to try them. Rather than order a kit, I decided I could make them for 1/2 of the cost. I ordered me a 1/2"x24"x48" piece of HDPE. I cut this into 4.25" strips. Using a forster bit, I drilled out holes leaving 1/8" in the bottom of each. Using 2" SS screws and washers, I screwed the HDPE to the 21* surface of the bunks. I do not think it will last very long, but I filled each hole with marine grade silicone.

Floated the boat yesterday and did the install. The results are amazing. I backed the trailer in 2 feet shy of how deep I normally back it in. As I drove the boat about 3/4 of the way onto the trailer, I put it in neutral for a moment only to have it start to slide back off. Putting it in gear with a little throttle stopped it and I drove it up the rest of the way. My wife had to hook up the strap and safety hook while I was still in gear.

For the times when I do have to crank it, no doubt it will be so much easier. It will also be imperative that the strap not come off until it is ready to be unloaded.

Bennett

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Be careful power loading your boat on the trailer.  Especially with the slick bunks, I seen boats shoot up and over the trailer winch post.  The prop wash is also a problem at many ramps because it washes out a pit at the end of the concrete ramp.  

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I have power loaded as well but read an artuicle that stated a tremendous amount of damage to boat ramps occur when people drive boats up on trailers due the the force of the water being displaced can undermine the boat ramps. After reading that I just crank the boat on with out issue.

 

Not trying to bash you but only help proect what we all use when we trailer which is nothing short of critical to have a nice boat ramp.

 

I'm curious to see pictures of these bunks in the way you did them though. This is new to me what you are talking about?

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It all depends on the ramp and the rules at each ramp.  I launch at a marina and they allow power loading because there is a steep drop from the end of the ramp.....We don't back in past the "orange" post!

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13 hours ago, dn0349 said:

It all depends on the ramp and the rules at each ramp.  I launch at a marina and they allow power loading because there is a steep drop from the end of the ramp.....We don't back in past the "orange" post!

I'm betting the  drop off was caused by power loading in the first place. The prop wash created the problem, so I guess the marina operator figured they'd go with it.  Cheaper than extending the ramp for sure!

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4 hours ago, newboat2016 said:

I'm betting the  drop off was caused by power loading in the first place. The prop wash created the problem, so I guess the marina operator figured they'd go with it.  Cheaper than extending the ramp for sure!

no that was not it at all, the channel that they are on was dredged all the way to the walls so at the end of the ramp drops off several feet down.  The ramp is also very steep and short.

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On 6/16/2016 at 1:47 PM, bbwhitejr@yahoo.com said:

We trailer our Sea Ray 260DA and I have been watching my two big bunks knowing I needed to change them out soon. I decided to tackle the job. I had a time finding 4"x10"x10' lumber, but finally found a guy with a saw mill that would cut them for me with the necessary 21* bevel to match my deadrise. They were cut out of green white oak and you can imagine how heavy they were. 

Bunk glides have always intrigued me so now was the perfect time to try them. Rather than order a kit, I decided I could make them for 1/2 of the cost. I ordered me a 1/2"x24"x48" piece of HDPE. I cut this into 4.25" strips. Using a forster bit, I drilled out holes leaving 1/8" in the bottom of each. Using 2" SS screws and washers, I screwed the HDPE to the 21* surface of the bunks. I do not think it will last very long, but I filled each hole with marine grade silicone.

Floated the boat yesterday and did the install. The results are amazing. I backed the trailer in 2 feet shy of how deep I normally back it in. As I drove the boat about 3/4 of the way onto the trailer, I put it in neutral for a moment only to have it start to slide back off. Putting it in gear with a little throttle stopped it and I drove it up the rest of the way. My wife had to hook up the strap and safety hook while I was still in gear.

For the times when I do have to crank it, no doubt it will be so much easier. It will also be imperative that the strap not come off until it is ready to be unloaded.

Bennett

As you were so lucky to learn, you never unbolt until she is safely in the water.  Denny.

0615141807_zps6xxptmkf.jpg

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My bunks need some TLC.  Will probably just replace the carpet as we may be downsizing or switching to an open bow boat.

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We are in the middle of moving and I have not had time to get any pics.  I will within the next couple of weeks.

As for power loading, here in the South it is a very acceptable practice.  I have boated from FL to NC to AL and all states in between.  I have never seen anyone NOT power load.  With the bunk glides, I need very little throttle to push her up to the bow roller.  If you are one that must winch your boat on, you should definitely research this topic.

 

Bennett

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I have been thinking of bunk glides but the bottom of my boat is painted and I assume the glides will not be as effective but I assume they will still work. Anyone have experience?

 

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OK. So after talking to a sales rep I ordered marine grade HDPE today and it should be here by mid next week. I know that I want to countersink the screws in the HDPE but my question is my 2015 Venture trailer has carpet on the bunks and I don't know if I want to remove the carpeting and then install the HDPE on the bare wood? Or should I just install over the carpeting?

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Removing the carpet helps the wood dry faster in my opinion. You will also remove all the mold & fungus in that carpet. If the wood is still solid / good enough ?  Wash it down with some straight BLEACH after it dries completely.  Use S S screws / bolts & nuts

You CAN NOT FORGET to tie the bow loop to the trailer   !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  It will definitely slide off of the moving trailer  !!!!!!!!!!!

No almosts.  Like I have done a few times. :o

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10 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

Removing the carpet helps the wood dry faster in my opinion. You will also remove all the mold & fungus in that carpet. If the wood is still solid / good enough ?  Wash it down with some straight BLEACH after it dries completely.  Use S S screws / bolts & nuts

You CAN NOT FORGET to tie the bow loop to the trailer   !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  It will definitely slide off of the moving trailer  !!!!!!!!!!!

No almosts.  Like I have done a few times. :o

Thanks Cy I was thinking pretty much the same but is good to get confirmation.  What are your thoughts on applying wood preservative to the bunks prior to attaching the HDPE?

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43 minutes ago, Phillbo said:

I used the manufactured planking when i replaced my bunks. It will never rott.

The trailer is a 2015 and was only used 1 season so I'm hoping they are in good shape. But when I do replace them I will look into manufactured material .

thanks

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