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Temkin

Replacing Trim Solenoid (Way in Back!)

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A 10 minute job in my shop but the trim pump assembly is WAY back in the back of the engine compartment.  I can't see leaning in there getting it done.

Do I have to remove the engine compartment cover?  Is this a big deal?  Tips?  Thoughts appreciated.

PS: The wide angle camera lens makes it look a lot closer to the access than it is.

_MG_0870July%2009%2020161%20Trim%20Pump_

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4 hours ago, Temkin said:

A 10 minute job in my shop but the trim pump assembly is WAY back in the back of the engine compartment.  I can't see leaning in there getting it done.

Do I have to remove the engine compartment cover?  Is this a big deal?  Tips?  Thoughts appreciated.

PS: The wide angle camera lens makes it look a lot closer to the access than it is.

_MG_0870July%2009%2020161%20Trim%20Pump_

As it's a Merc, you likely have a trim up, trim down, and MAIN remote solenoid on top of your engine under the cover. They are all the same part number and you can switch one for the other as a test to see if that is the issue. They fail more often than the ones on the pump unit.  Cheaper too.  If it is the trim pump mounted ones then you can un-plug the pump, and the hoses have quick-couplers so you can pluck the whole thing out of there easy. W

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On 7/12/2016 at 4:54 PM, Wingnut said:

As it's a Merc, you likely have a trim up, trim down, and MAIN remote solenoid on top of your engine under the cover. They are all the same part number and you can switch one for the other as a test to see if that is the issue. They fail more often than the ones on the pump unit.  Cheaper too.  If it is the trim pump mounted ones then you can un-plug the pump, and the hoses have quick-couplers so you can pluck the whole thing out of there easy. W

I figure there are at least 3 screws holding down the trim pump unit, correct?  Even getting to these would be difficult.  And then maybe I could slide the unit toward the front to replace the solenoid.  You say the hoses have quick-couplers.  Does this mean I can remove them without spilling fluids? If so, how?

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I would pop the pins on the hatch and raise it some more to get some more access room. Then block it with some 2x4's and rope, or something, somehow. But that "short" wiring harness to the hatch may be a problem if it can't just be unplugged..

Or mabe get some little skinny friend to crawl in there and do the job for some beers or something

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You probably need a midget.

And that hatch weighs a ton, and would cause serious damage if it comes down on someone, so be extra careful. 

brick

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My boat is similar. I would throw a blanket down across the plastic flame arrestor cover and lay down on it. Straddle the engine with your legs to take some of the weight off the top of the engine. It can be done, not fun, but can be done. The solenoids should just pop right out and back in.

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thankfully my trim pump is easy to get to.  Cause my trim down is intermittently not working.  So I have a spare solenoid for the pump and a spare relay for the top of the engine if it totally dies.  Hopefully it's one of them and not the switch on the throttle

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1 minute ago, MonkeySeaII said:

thankfully my trim pump is easy to get to.  Cause my trim down is intermittently not working.  So I have a spare solenoid for the pump and a spare relay for the top of the engine if it totally dies.  Hopefully it's one of them and not the switch on the throttle

Take out the trim switch near the swim platform and clean the connectors.  That is where my problem was.

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4 minutes ago, Big Fun said:

Take out the trim switch near the swim platform and clean the connectors.  That is where my problem was.

I'll check that since the boat is out of the water to get ready for a road trip this wknd.  But when I hit the transom switch last night to lower the drive it went right down.

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20 hours ago, 2004lebanshee said:

Am I the only one who would kill for that much room?

:haha-7383:   from another 210er

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I went to the marina today to some cleaning and maintenance.

I tried to change the solenoid on the pump assembly but just didn't bring the right tools, aarrrgh!

The assembly has four screws holding it down and it would not be fun taking them out and worse putting them back in.

The solenoid doesn't 'pop out' as it's held by two (hard to get too) 3/16" head bolts.  With the right tools I think I'll be able to remove it.  I'll let you know.

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I seem to have the same problem... trim clicks but won't go up or down... In wingnuts, reply he mentions a Main solenoid under the cover... does this have anything to do with TRIM or more for starting?

Also... what are the odds that up and down would fail at the same time.

it's a long weekend and I've purchased new solenoids - I've love to solve this problem asap to get back on the water.... 

anything you can share would be great.

 

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46 minutes ago, dh20 said:

I seem to have the same problem... trim clicks but won't go up or down... In wingnuts, reply he mentions a Main solenoid under the cover... does this have anything to do with TRIM or more for starting?

Also... what are the odds that up and down would fail at the same time.

it's a long weekend and I've purchased new solenoids - I've love to solve this problem asap to get back on the water.... 

anything you can share would be great.

 

Atop the intake manifold under the plastic engine cover, Merc uses a gang of up to 4 slave solenoids on several engines. One is marked fuel for electric fuel pumps, one is marked Main which powers the gauge cluster, and the other two are marked trim up and trim down respectively If the main one fails, the trim will still work but gauges won't actuate and no warning horn when you turn the key on. These 4 units are all the same part number and can be interchanged for testing purposes. That said, as you said you hear a click both up and down, it would seem you are getting power past the slaves, and to the pump so I would start by checking the ground to the pump first. Then check with a helper to see if you are actually getting power to the pump with a simple test light. If you are then likely the pump itself has failed. W

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Isn't the Solenoid on top of your engine for the starter and not the engine trim pumps?  My pumps have there own solenoids and I still have solenoids on top of my engine as well.  I recall when my old SeaRay was having starting issues I replaced the one on top of the engine and that solved the issue?

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Depends on the year and engine model. My 8.1 has 4 solenoids as I described. I've seen Merc's with as few as one if a Carb engine, and two if injected.

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1 hour ago, Water Dawg 6 said:

Gotcha, I only have one on top of each engine.  And one on each trim pump.

There are

 

1 hour ago, Water Dawg 6 said:

Gotcha, I only have one on top of each engine.  And one on each trim pump.

I have redundant ones on my trip pump also. Don't know why there are two sets but system utilizes both.  W

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