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#%^$&%$IHateThat

New 2012 196 SSI Owner - any ideas for organizing storage

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Hi, 

I'm a new owner of a 2012 196 SSI with a 4.3L Volvo Penta.  There is a ton of storage space in the rear on both sides of the engine compartment.  Has anyone come up with some good ideas for making these compartments more usable?  I am thinking of putting some plastic tubs in there so I can keep stuff from rolling around.  My boat only has 1 battery so there is also a lot of room behind the battery to store less frequently used things like a spare prop etc. but maybe I'd want to cover the battery to protect it?

I'd love to hear any ideas you might have.

 

Thanks,

John

P.S. sorry about my user name - not sure what happened there!

Edited by #%^$&%$IHateThat
bad user name

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A 12 x 18 inch plastic milk crate mounted there could hold oil, cleaners, and other small items. I say "could" because I haven't done it yet, only have measured the space. I'm still too chicken to drill a hole in a boat. :)

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2 hours ago, sbkatl said:

 I'm still too chicken to drill a hole in a boat. :)

try adding docking lights...  

DSC000022.jpg

 

DSC00020.jpgDSC000062.jpg

 

 

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G E RTV Silicone rubber to hold the grated type of rectangular baskets works for me. Things dry fast in a engine compartment.

I kept 1 pail & lid & the padded seat for the ladies. Box of the " paper seat covers " was appreciated. A large clean beach towel gave enough privacy. Small 48 mph boats can quickly leave restroom areas.

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3 hours ago, IndyChap said:

try adding docking lights...  

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Or transom speakers.....

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I have to give this one to Indy, though. His holes are closer to the waterline.   :rolleyes:

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I installed a hydraulic trim plate on my old boat.  It required drilling two new holes below the waterline for the hydraulic lines.  Needless to say, my anxiety level was through the roof when drilled that first hole, and for about 4 trips after, making sure there was no leakage.

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I agree on 2nd battery.  That is going to be my off-season modification.

The piece of mind of a 2nd battery especially with stereo modifications will be nice.

First thing I did was remove the Coleman cooler from the compartment.  Being under the sunpad with the heat from the engine it was hard to keep things cool for more than a couple hours.  So, that adds a nice storage area; keep my bow and stern covers in there.

The bow compartments are completely filled with life preservers and the bow cooler is a cute concept...but that is all.  We keep our emergency kit up there.  The only area wasted to me is the helm space.  I had to get behind the radio for a cable that became disconnected and was shocked by how much wasted space there is back there.  It would be great to design a way to remove the backs to the bow seating to access that space via holes in the helm.

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I've placed plastic storage tubs for storing footwear, extra beach towels etc in the compartment below the walk through on the starboard side. As others suggested, I just finished adding a second battery to run the house electronics. If you run a chart-plotter/fish-finder or sound system, I would also recommend you add a second battery. Installed a group 29 battery for house and a Blue Sea Systems automatic charging relay. I still have room for a small storage tub behind the batteries to hold extra oil, rags etc.

IMG_0116_zpscgftbgok.jpg20160721_173124_zpsr62zvn6g.jpg

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When you added the second battery, did you also replace the existing "on/off" battery switch with one which supports two batteries?  

I've removed the cooler and found a tub which fits nicely in there.  We'll probably only need the cooler a couple of times a year. 

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Yes I replaced the stock Blue Sea battery switch with their Dual Circuit Plus m-series switch #6011. This allowed for simple swap out as they are the same size. I have to say that even with making all my own battery cables cut to length, this was really an easy install.

Here is the backside of the switch:

IMG_0114_zpslobrjeis.jpg

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Not to hijack this post and it does appear the OP is interested, how does the second battery work?  Do you have all constant powered accessories on one battery and then the starter on another?  That way you can listen to music while anchored and still switch to battery B to start the boat should you discharge battery A too much?

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12 hours ago, EricGT said:

Not to hijack this post and it does appear the OP is interested, how does the second battery work?  Do you have all constant powered accessories on one battery and then the starter on another?  That way you can listen to music while anchored and still switch to battery B to start the boat should you discharge battery A too much?

That is exactly it. The Dual Circuit Plus m-series switch #6011 splits the batteries so that the starter battery is connected to position 1 (input) terminal (on the switch) and the engine positive power lead to position 1 (output) terminal, while the house battery is connected to position 2 (input) terminal (on the switch) and the house positive power lead to position 2 (output) terminal. As in stock configuration with the basic On/Off switch, there are several positive leads that are separate from the main house and are wired directly to the house battery (input) terminal so that they are always on regardless of whether the main switch is in the 'On' or 'Off' position (e.g. the Automatic bilge, stereo memory and corrosion protection system).

With this setup, I can run my Garmin chartplotter/fishfinder, stereo, courtesy lights etc. when the boat engine is powered off without worrying about killing the starting battery. And when I start the boat, the separate starting battery only starts the engine - note you do not have to switch anything on the switch when starting as the two batteries are isolated and operable all the time (i.e. only 'On' and 'Off' settings no 'A', 'B' and 'A+B'). However, the Dual Circuit Plus switch also has the 'Combine' option to tie both batteries together should the starting battery fail for some reason.

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On ‎8‎/‎3‎/‎2016 at 7:05 PM, sbkatl said:

A 12 x 18 inch plastic milk crate mounted there could hold oil, cleaners, and other small items. I say "could" because I haven't done it yet, only have measured the space. I'm still too chicken to drill a hole in a boat. :)

Don't!  Industrial strength Velcro will hold it in place just fine. That's what I did for storage tubs I added in my boat and they haven't moved.

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Wide velcro strips are easy to install (double basked adhesive), inexpensive, long lasting and allow the easy removal of the plastic storage bin.

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6 minutes ago, Ronbill said:

Wide velcro strips are easy to install (double basked adhesive), inexpensive, long lasting and allow the easy removal of the plastic storage bin.

So I go to put an enhanced 6 speaker stereo system in a 30' Sea Ray. I take all the visible screws and bolts out of the cabin interior side valiance, and the thing wont move. I figure they glued the front end into position, so I pull long and hard and it finally yields. What do I find? Stainless Steel Velcro. Dang that stuff is tough.   I touch it with my finger. Bad idea as now the "hooks" and under my skin. Dang that stuff is mean. W

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yikes, I did not know that existed., but I just looked it up. I'm just wondering why you would need that?

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18 minutes ago, Ronbill said:

yikes, I did not know that existed., but I just looked it up. I'm just wondering why you would need that?

It's Velcro Hi-Garde used in chemical and heat resistant environments. It can be spot welded into place. Not sure why they'd use it to hold speakers on a boat!

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2 hours ago, newboat2016 said:

It's Velcro Hi-Garde used in chemical and heat resistant environments. It can be spot welded into place. Not sure why they'd use it to hold speakers on a boat!

They didn't. They used it to hold the entire front half of the interior panel, about 6' long.  W

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