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Winterizing a Chaparral H2O


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I am going to winterize my Chaparral H2O for the first time this year.  I let the dealer do it until the warranty on the motor ran out.  I've winterized boats before but they were older and frankly more simple.  I don't want to miss any important step specific to this motor and would appreciate any advice from someone familiar with this setup.  I have the H2O 19' Sport with the 4.3 MPI Mercruiser.  

I plan to run a double dose of Stabil stabilizer through the last tank of gas (low ethanol from our lake marina) and run it for about 30 minutes on the lake before taking her out for the season.  I will change the oil, change the fluid in the lower unity, drain, and then flush with -50 antifreeze (located in Denver).  I will fog the motor as the antifreeze runs through to finish the process.

I am particularly concerned about finding all of the plugs so if anyone has a count on those I would appreciate it (I'm buying a SELOC manual to assist with finding them).

I am also considering removing the lower unit and storing it inside over the winter but I don't want to create more work than is necessary and don't want to add a task that I might screw up if it isn't necessary.  I've never removed a lower unit before.  Anybody else do this?

I am not a mechanic but enjoy this stuff and have worked on a lot of cars and boats early in life when paying a mechanic wasn't an option.  Thanks in advance for any guidance.  My boys will "help" me with this.

 

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Millions of sterndrives every year, simply have the engine drain plugs removed, with the drive straight down. What year is the motor ?   The tiny puddles will not crack a block. Only possible puddle     MIGHT BE   the circulating pump at the front of a engine.

Wingnut & Shepherd can pinpoint your engine drain points.

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38 minutes ago, dlewien said:

 

I am also considering removing the lower unit and storing it inside over the winter but I don't want to create more work than is necessary and don't want to add a task that I might screw up if it isn't necessary.  I've never removed a lower unit before.  Anybody else do this?

I, too, remove my drive unit each fall for several reasons. First is theft prevention. Although she is stored in a locked building with other boats and campers, if a thief wants in, he'll figure a way in. Besides it's only about a 15 minute job. I built a special dolly with caster wheels to make the job simpler. I pull all electronics, batteries and the drive after I've serviced the engine and anti-freezed it. One thing to consider is the purchase of an alignment tool to use during reassembly in the spring. Very inexpensive on eBay.

Since I keep the drive here at the house in the basement, I do all the maintenance to it here in the basement. I'm also able to check or replace the water pump impeller if needed. Lots easier to do inside in the warmth!

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then flush with -50 antifreeze (located in Denver).  I will fog the motor as the antifreeze runs through to finish the process.

The quickest way to a new block winterizing that way. Take the time to drain everything first, then introduce the AC by simply pouring it into the hoses. Fogging injected motors must be done with a "cocktail winterizing mix"  hooked into the fuel line because of the sensors

The common plug locations are 1 on each side of the block, 1 in each manifolds, cool fuel unit, power steering unit, lower water hose(therm to circ pump.

" I am also considering removing the lower unit and storing it inside over the winter but I don't want to create more work than is necessary and don't want to add a task that I might screw up if it isn't necessary.  I've never removed a lower unit before.  Anybody else do this?"

For Alpha, shift into Fwd ,remove rams, remove 6 mounting nuts, pull rearward

For Bravo, shift in neutral, remove rams, remove mounting nuts, pull rearward

 

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 Love the O B engines.  Self  draining  /  winterizing  engines.  :wub:

I just check the lower gearbox oil for water changing the oil color. Done   That step must be done before freezing temperatures. If a water leak gets massive.

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Thanks to everyone.  

clclops2, my boat is a 2013 model and so I suppose the motor is also a 2013.

Bt Doctur, Can I drain it, then introduce the antifreeze through the fresh water pickups?  Don't need or want a new block so I appreciate you speaking up.

RichMarionOhio, thanks for the tip about buying the alignment tool.  I'll pick one up.

 

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I remove all the drain plugs and probe the opening to make sure there open and draining. A typical V8 block holds approx 2  to 2 - 3/4 Gal of liquid.

manifolds and riser can drain by removing the drain plug or removing the hoses..At your therm housing you have 2 hoses going to the bottom of the manifolds, remove then from the therm housing and  simply pour in the AF until it comes out the exaust, typically slightly more than a 1/2 Gal .in each manifold.

Remove the large hose at the therm housing , bend it down to drain or remove the drain plug . pour 2 Gal or so untill it comes out the therm housing, reconnect the hoses.

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It's getting to be that time of year...So here we go!

 

Item 1 to 6 are our recommendations before winterizing:

 

  1. Drive is removed, serviced and reinstalled
  2. Fuel and oil filters replaced
  3. Fuel treatment
  4. Engine and outdrive oil is changed
  5. Engine is started and brought up to operating temperature
  6. Shut down engine & drain block and manifolds and or heat exchanger
  7. Prepare engine to run on minus 100 anti-freeze

This section below comes from MerCruise's service manual # 44

There are no service bulletins superseding this manual.

 

Preparing Power Package for Storage

1. Fill the fuel tanks with fresh gasoline (that does not contain alcohol) and a sufficient amount of Mercury/Quicksilver

Gasoline Stabilizer for Marine Engines to treat the gasoline. Follow instructions on the container.

2. Check the antifreeze concentration. Refer to the Specifications section.

3. If the boat is to be placed in storage with fuel containing alcohol in fuel tanks (if fuel without alcohol is not available): Fuel

tanks should be drained as low as possible and Mercury/Quicksilver Gasoline Stabilizer for Marine Engines added to any

fuel remaining in the tank. Refer to Fuel Requirements for additional information.

4. Flush the cooling system. Refer to the Maintenance section.

5. Supply cooling water to engine. Refer to the Maintenance section.

6. Operate the engine sufficiently to bring it up to normal operating temperature and allow fuel with Mercury/Quicksilver

Gasoline Stabilizer for Marine Engines to circulate through the fuel system. Shut off the engine.

7. Change the oil and oil filter.

8. Prepare the engine and fuel system for storage. See Engine and Fuel System Preparation.

9. Drain the engine seawater cooling system. See Draining the Seawater System.

 

 

Water trapped in the seawater section of the cooling system can cause corrosion or freeze damage. Drain the seawater

section of the cooling system immediately after operation or before any length of storage in freezing temperatures. If the boat

is in the water, keep the seacock closed until restarting the engine to prevent water from flowing back into the cooling system.

If the boat is not fitted with a seacock, leave the water inlet hose disconnected and plugged.

10. For additional assurance against freezing and rust, after draining, fill the seawater cooling system with propylene glycol

mixed to the manufacturer's recommendation to protect engine to the lowest temperature to which it will be exposed during

freezing temperatures or extended storage.

11. Store the battery according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Engine and Fuel System Preparation

WARNING

Fuel is flammable and explosive. Ensure that the key switch is off and the lanyard is positioned so that the engine cannot

start. Do not smoke or allow sources of spark or open flame in the area while servicing. Keep the work area well ventilated

and avoid prolonged exposure to vapors. Always check for leaks before attempting to start the engine, and wipe up any

spilled fuel immediately.

WARNING

Fuel vapors trapped in the engine compartment may be an irritant, cause difficulty breathing, or may ignite resulting in a fire

or explosion. Always ventilate the engine compartment before servicing the power package.

NOTICE

Running out of fuel can damage catalyst components. Do not allow the fuel tanks to become empty during operation.

1. In a 23 Liter (6 US gal) remote fuel tank mix:

a. 19 Liter (5 US gal) regular unleaded 87 octane (90 RON) gasoline

b. 1.89 Liter (2 US qt) Premium Plus 2‑Cycle TC‑W3 Outboard Oil

c. 150 ml (5 oz) Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer or 30 ml (1 oz) Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer Concentrate

Tube Ref No. Description Where Used Part No.

115

Premium Plus 2-Cycle

TC-W3 Outboard Oil Fuel system 92-858026K01

124

Fuel System Treatment

and Stabilizer Fuel system 92-8M0047932

2. Allow the engine to cool.

IMPORTANT: Immediately wipe up any fuel spills or sprays.

3. Close the fuel shut off valve, if equipped. Disconnect and plug the fuel inlet fitting if not equipped with a fuel shut off valve.

4. Connect the remote fuel tank (with the fogging mixture) to the fuel inlet fitting.

IMPORTANT: Supply cooling water to the engine.

5. Start and operate the engine at 1300 RPM for five minutes.

6. After the specified operating time is complete, slowly return the throttle to idle and shut the engine off.

IMPORTANT: Ensure that some fogging mixture remains in the engine. Do not allow the engine's fuel system to become

completely dry.

7. Replace the water separating fuel filter element. Refer to Section 5.

Maintenance

 

WARNING

Performing service or maintenance without first disconnecting the battery can cause product damage, personal injury, or

death due to fire, explosion, electrical shock, or unexpected engine starting. Always disconnect the battery cables from the

battery before maintaining, servicing, installing, or removing engine or drive components.

 

 

Here is the setup to make fogging simple.
You will have to disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pump and or filter depending on your type of engine. (MerCruiser or Volvo) This is simple just follow the fuel hose from the tank to the filter or pump.

Note how the fuel valve is located close to the engine side of the fitting to reduce the chance of fuel spilling into the bilge.

This kit is sold with or without the 3 Gallon fuel tank.
It features a fuel primer bulb to prime the hose ( so your fuel pump does not run dry)
An on / off fuel valve & 8 Ft. of fuel hose with an end that will plug directly into your fuel pump or filter depending on your type of engine. 
Also the hose is long enough to place the fuel tank on your swim platform reducing the risk of spillage.

 

http://www.cecilmarineonline.com/3-8-x-fuel-hose-flair-flair-primer-bulb-on-off-valve/

 

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you can also fog the engine during the last step by simply removing the fuel filter and filling it up w/ fogging oil.  it is about the same amount needed.  screw back on and run engine w/ the muffs on - no extra parts needed.  i also drain the engine blocks and then reinstall the plugs - from the water flushing connection on mine i just poor a few gallons of -50 AF into the the water system.  i do keep mine in heated storage if it were outside I would do a bit more.  Also, i disconnect the fresh water pump and let the water tank drain completely, reconnect and add 1 gallon of AV to system as well.  Note:  i always change my fuel filters in the spring prior to start up so i treat the filter as disposable last step

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I do only the removing of transom drain plug & all the engine drain plugs.  Wait 1 hour WITH A ALARM CLOCK set to go off 1 hour before dinner. between the 2   I remember.

All new O rings on drain plugs. New tape on the transom plug.  Check color of drive oil & engine oil.  Change as required  / indicated.

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