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4xFSChamp

Trim not reacting properly

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I've only had the boat since July and this is my first boat. I would assume using the trim switch on the throttle it should react fast or right away.  Some times it seems to work ok but a good bit of times while cruise it doesn't move on the gauges at all and some times I can see it bounce around a lot while cruising (maybe normal). How should it react?  

2011 244 Sunesta

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My guess is your actual trim is working just fine, and that you have a failing trim sender that is lying to you on the helm display. It is mechanically impossible for the trim to bounce around erratically.   W

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Okay that's good to know it's not bouncing.  Any help on where the trim sender is located?  I'm a car/race car guy so I'm mechanical but don't know my way completely around a boat yet.

 

Thanks for your help!

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If Merc, it's on starboard hinge of lower unit.  It's not worth replacing, they fail often and fast.  I installed my third one in 6 years, it failed 3rd time in the water. :(

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14 minutes ago, Duane2135 said:

If Merc, it's on starboard hinge of lower unit.  It's not worth replacing, they fail often and fast.  I installed my third one in 6 years, it failed 3rd time in the water. :(

Volvo unit.

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10 minutes ago, 4xFSChamp said:

Volvo unit.

It is a black plastic circular device on the starboard side of the lower unit held in place by two screws. All trim sending units are notorious for going bad.

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What do you guys do with these if and when they fail? I see guys saying just forget about them etc.  How do you know where your trim is?

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I'd replace the sending unit.  You can trim by feel if you're underway, but if you boat in shallow water, that's another matter.  You're going to want to know how much you're trimmed when you're in the shallows.

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Yeah we pull up to shallows a lot and 

anchor out.  And I read the warnings about going too high in the rpms with the trim over 13% so it makes me nervous. I have heard the difference when you have the trim up around 11% so I can tell that. Just want the piece of mind as much as I can lol

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my take is this.  These things go out all the time and are not worth fixing over and over again.  Under way youll know where its at by feel, just will.  If you worried about shallows this is what I would tell you. Know the draft of the boat, which is probably 3 ft.  if depth is telling you 3ft you better be going up,  that gauge is not going to tell you much beyond approximate height anyways.  To be honest people including myself have hit things with a working gauge as well. 

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If you must fix it, then try what I did with my second set, which bought me another year with it.  I took the sensor apart.  Fount it full of water.  I let it dry out completely.  Then I reseated the pass through for the wires with 4 3M 4200.  Once dry I greased the internals with elect bulb grease, and used a lot of it.  I then put pool pump o-ring grease on the o-rings and buttoned the two halves back together.  I'll probably try the same thing with the sensor that is now on the boat in the off season.  I'm actually sorry I didn't do this right from the get go when I installed the new sensors last winter.  From the factory the just aren't water tight.  I figure if full of grease then less likely that water will replace it.  Either that or the 4200 and seal grease did the trick.  ??

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I've started using a "timed" theory to adjust my trim. While on the trailer I timed in seconds the time it takes for the lower unit to travel full up to full down. On mine it is about 12 seconds up and 10 seconds down. Starting from a full down position, I then can time my trim and have an idea where my lower unit is relative to its total travel path range. Once on plane from full down, I time three seconds of trim up and usually find my boats sweet spot for optimal speed.

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Funny topic, I was out today and put a few hours on the boat and I  noticed the trim switch up does not work up but the trailer switch up works, and the down works fine.  Just when I thought I would get a break from the next repair. "BOOM" the next thing need repairs. I don't hear the solenoid clicking up. I do have an extra Quicksilver Controller 3000 trim switch in the garage from the last repair maybe 2 years ago when the controller handle broke.

Been there done that before. I really use the trim switch a lot because of low tide in the harbor demands triming up at low tide coming into the dock.

If I remember correct you have to test for control voltage on the up solenoid. I don't remember if the "trailer switch" goes thru the trim switch or not (I don't think it does because the motor will grunt up if you are using the trailer switch. 

At any rate, as all you may know.... most boat need continued repairs and maintenance. 

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On September 13, 2016 at 9:27 AM, Duane2135 said:

If Merc, it's on starboard hinge of lower unit.  It's not worth replacing, they fail often and fast.  I installed my third one in 6 years, it failed 3rd time in the water. :(

Mine is original. Hope I have not jinxed it...

brick

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