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sburke91

225 SSI - Dual Battery Install

45 posts in this topic

I'm still trying to understand why multiple people think this charger is too small.  I understand the different battery type/charging profile concern, but given the way I use the boat, the charger will have plenty of time to bring both batteries back to full charge before my next use.  Is there any real value, in a time period with no power draw, to charge the batteries in say 6 hours vs. 15?  

I don't spend any time at a dock with power, so don't need charger output that keeps up with the 12V load in that situation.  

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1 hour ago, sburke91 said:

I'm still trying to understand why multiple people think this charger is too small.

Post a thread about building a boat of "X" size, one of Chap's larger models, and ask if twin 4.3L V6 is enough engine. You will likely get a NO. Some may even say 5.7L is not enough, go larger cause they will work too hard and suck a ton of fuel. 

A larger charger will work less hard to recharge the same Ah as the smaller charger. The larger charger will produce less heat per/lb. Its not about which will charge faster, but about which one will work more conservatively. As stated, I think a 12A is right at the min and a 20A would be best. Thats a suggestion, its up to you. If this was a single engine run-a-bout that was not going to be used for overnights or banging on a hi-output stereo for 8 hours a day for the weekend, then sure, a 12A is perfect for taking care of a pair of group-24.

The 2nd half of this discussion is that you are looking at using a flooded and wet cell, with a charger that only allows for single charger profile.   

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5 minutes ago, Was_Wylie_Tunes said:

Post a thread about building a boat of "X" size, one of Chap's larger models, and ask if twin 4.3L V6 is enough engine. You will likely get a NO. Some may even say 5.7L is not enough, go larger cause they will work too hard and suck a ton of fuel. 

A larger charger will work less hard to recharge the same Ah as the smaller charger. The larger charger will produce less heat per/lb. Its not about which will charge faster, but about which one will work more conservatively. As stated, I think a 12A is right at the min and a 20A would be best. Thats a suggestion, its up to you. If this was a single engine run-a-bout that was not going to be used for overnights or banging on a hi-output stereo for 8 hours a day for the weekend, then sure, a 12A is perfect for taking care of a pair of group-24.

The 2nd half of this discussion is that you are looking at using a flooded and wet cell, with a charger that only allows for single charger profile.   

Now we're getting somewhere:)

Since West Marine has a decent return policy, I may swap the charger out for something bigger, but also, because I only want to do this once, if the original battery tray has enough space (I need to measure but it looks doable), I'll also replace the flooded Group 24 with another Group 27 AGM and call it a day.  I know what I have will work, but I'm now pointedly in zone of "every time I've not bought the best tool, I've regretted it" thinking.

 

 

 

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Here's the two battery set-up I added to my 220. 67CD55A9-BD30-476A-A2D7-32E9B18D2860_zpsI have a 2-bank 8-amp onboard charger. Has worked great for 11 years. Simple and effective  

brick

 

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You would be hitting the 400 range with the Minn Kota. Sooner or later you you will need to replace the flooded battery.

I would call ProMariner and ask what setting would be the best on the Pronautic model for your setup before buying. It has 6 or 8 battery types if I remember right.  

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Is a AGM battery allowed to be " conditioned " ?  ( desulfated ).  I thought AGM is NEVER TO BE OVER charged to prevent pressure vent from opening & loss of electrolyte. That would permanently reduce capacity. No way to replace liquid.  Flooded acid is supposed to gas heavily for a while. No problems.

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If the charger is set to AGM, I don't see a problem. I have 5 of them and some are hitting 7 to 8 years old..

This is  true for all of the Promariner chargers. There not mentioning desulfated, but AGMs do not have that problem. 

Multi-Stage Charging Overview

Stage 1 - System Check OK and Battery Analyzing: During this stage the ProSport red “Charge” LED will flash indicating ProSport is analyzing all battery connections in addition to checking each battery is capable of being charged. Upon completion the “System Check OK” indicator will illuminate green followed by Stage 2 Charging.

Stage 2 - Charging: During this mode the “Charging” indicator will be red. The ProSport Series will use all of its available charging amps (as controlled by temperature) until the battery voltage is raised to 14.6VDC (Flooded lead-acid factory setting).

Stage 3 - Conditioning: During this mode the “Conditioning” status indicator will be amber. Batteries will hold at 14.6 VDC (factory set for Flooded lead-acid batteries) to complete charging while conditioning each battery connected. Upon completion the ProSport will go into its Energy Saver Mode.

Stage 4 - Auto Maintain (Energy Saver Mode): During this mode the blue “Power” and green “Auto Maintain” LED's will be on indicating Stage 2 charging and Stage 3 conditioning are completed. At this time ProSport will initiate its Auto Maintain (Energy Saver Mode) which will monitor and Auto Maintain batteries only when needed to maintain a full state of charge.

Stage 5 - Storage Recondition Mode: During this mode the ProSport “Storage Recondition Mode” green indicator will illuminate with a slow fade in and out pulse. This indicates that while your batteries/boat are in storage the ProSport will automatically recondition all batteries for up to 3 hours once a month extending battery life and maximizing on the water battery power performance.

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Well, the ProSport 12's all boxed up and going back this weekend.  I'm now firmly in the 'anything worth doing is worth overdoing' thought space, so I'm looking at the 30a ProNautic unit with the snazzy remote display, which I'll either put in the cabin or at the helm.

Thinking through all this led me to start looking at small 12v refrigerators, discovering that there's some nice ones that will fit in the space I have and not have too much draw on a 90-100Ah house battery in a normal boating day.  

It never ends :)

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Have not read everything in great detail but I understand you were prompted to go with higher output charger. Why have you decided on 30A unit?

FWIW, the 20A unit would be more than adequate for your two battery setup. With 30A unit you should check if charging wires from the charger to the switches are of the sufficient gauge to take 30A over double length of the longest wire. There are tables online that can assist ... check WestMarine site.

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8 hours ago, Richard W said:

Have not read everything in great detail but I understand you were prompted to go with higher output charger. Why have you decided on 30A unit?

FWIW, the 20A unit would be more than adequate for your two battery setup. With 30A unit you should check if charging wires from the charger to the switches are of the sufficient gauge to take 30A over double length of the longest wire. There are tables online that can assist ... check WestMarine site.

I ran some calculations around the absolute max theoretical load, if I do add a small 12v refrigerator, the 12v TV I plan to add in the cabin, along with the other parasitic loads, and could see draw in the 10-12A range if everything were running.  Since I'm building this from scratch, I might as well build for the possibility of sitting somewhere on shore power, with the charger both charging a starting battery and charging the house battery/feeding the house load.  

The wiring's easy, since none of it exists yet--I can size for the need.

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11 hours ago, sburke91 said:

I might as well build for the possibility of sitting somewhere on shore power, with the charger both charging a starting battery and charging the house battery/feeding the house load.  

Dont want to make this a habit with an on-board charger. You would want a 12V power supply. Continuous loads will keep a charger running in bulk mode.  

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11 hours ago, sburke91 said:

Talk about timing--the ProNautics just went on sale at West Marine--20% off though 11/23!

Check out Defender.com and you can call ProMariner directly which would be the best deal. Ether way, West Marine is the Neiman Marcus (big bucks) of boating.

I don't know the distance, but 10 AWG tinned wire should be fine. Don't forget to install in line fuses too.

 

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1 hour ago, Iggy said:

Check out Defender.com and you can call ProMariner directly which would be the best deal. Ether way, West Marine is the Neiman Marcus (big bucks) of boating.

 

I agree, but when you catch the rare combination of a sale and a coupon stacked on top, you can work it lower than any of the other online places.  I also like to ship big stuff to my local store once in a while as it helps keep them around.  They're convenient for the odd, short-notice needs, and every time I go in, it's pretty dead in there. 

 

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Totally agree & do the same thing all the time with my locals.  :)

Neiman  Marcus never says hi or lets do lunch / coffee together.

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