Powerfader

Backfired and now won't start

11 posts in this topic

I have a 2005 Chaparral SSI 210 Volvo Penta 5.0 GXi-e 270 horse.

I took the boat out the other day. It seemed to start up fine and idled properly. I motored out of the canal and into the channel  of the river. I powered up and got on plane when suddenly it started to backfire and lose power. Eventually it stalled and now will not start. it cranks, but it will not turn over.

I need help! Thanks in advance.

Things I have done within the late 6 -8 months:

1. Change oil, filter, and gear lube.

2. New serpentine belt.

3. New fuel pump.

4. New felt pressure regulator.

5. New spar plugs.

6. New IAC control.

7. New cam shaft sensor.

8. New anti siphon valve.

9. New distributor cap.

10. New rotor.

11. Cleaned and re-certify injectors

12. Polished/recertify fuel

13. Two new batteries.

14. New temperature sensor and thermostat.

15. New sea water pump.

16. New belt tensioner.

17. New computer module.

18. New starter.

19. New alternator.

20. New VP 3857487 sensor. TPS sensor?

21. New ignition cable kit.

22. New plug wires.

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Backfiring is an indication of ignition in a given cylinder while it's intake valve is still open. Timing chain, failed valve spring, crank position sensor, are all possibilities, but the most likely culprit is moisture invading the distributor cap causing a cross fire. I know you mentioned new cap and rotor, but those vintage caps are notorious for premature failure. I would remove the cap, and look carefully inside for signs of moisture, carbon tracking, and arcing. If so, NAPA makes a premium line of those style caps that are marketed under the NAPA Gold banner, and include solid brass contacts. Post a picture of your specific cap and we will provide a part number.   W

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This is the Part No# VP 3858975, but when I took a look at what is actually there it looks totally different. The top is flat with the plug wires coming out from the side. It's grey in color.

The marina I had do the work seems to be corrupt. I originally took it in to have a temp sensor and bilge pump replaced, but when I got it home the bilge and the temp gauge didn't work. I took out the backseat to inspect the bilge pump. I found that they did not even replace the old, it was yellowed with age. They didn't bother cleaning out the bilge area and all the wiring was just laying in the water. I collected about 30 screws, washers, bolts and even a 1/4 in snap-on socket wrench and screwdriver. I bought and installed a new bilge pump, tied off the wiring out of reach of water, and cleaned the bilge area of debris. I tell you this, because they have done all the work on my boat and now I don't trust them enough to know where else they may have cheated me.

I am no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I would like to know something to maybe help guide the NEW mechanic that will look at it. I am tired of being taken advantage of!

Btw, they charged me for the pump, float switch, and sensor, plus labor, but did nothing but collect my money!  CROOKS!!!!

Cap.PNGt.png

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On ‎11‎/‎13‎/‎2016 at 8:46 AM, Powerfader said:

 

This is the Part No# VP 3858975, but when I took a look at what is actually there it looks totally different. The top is flat with the plug wires coming out from the side. It's grey in color.

The marina I had do the work seems to be corrupt. I originally took it in to have a temp sensor and bilge pump replaced, but when I got it home the bilge and the temp gauge didn't work. I took out the backseat to inspect the bilge pump. I found that they did not even replace the old, it was yellowed with age. They didn't bother cleaning out the bilge area and all the wiring was just laying in the water. I collected about 30 screws, washers, bolts and even a 1/4 in snap-on socket wrench and screwdriver. I bought and installed a new bilge pump, tied off the wiring out of reach of water, and cleaned the bilge area of debris. I tell you this, because they have done all the work on my boat and now I don't trust them enough to know where else they may have cheated me.

I am no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I would like to know something to maybe help guide the NEW mechanic that will look at it. I am tired of being taken advantage of!

Btw, they charged me for the pump, float switch, and sensor, plus labor, but did nothing but collect my money!  CROOKS!!!!

Cap.PNGt.png

t.png

I have a a marine mobile mechanic coming out Monday the 28th. Hopefully, he can fix it cheap! I will post the results.

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Don't let the marina get away with cheating you.  Call the owner of the marina and complain about what you paid for sloppy and undone work. If that doesn't work post their name and address on here so others won't get cheated.

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On 11/13/2016 at 8:46 AM, Powerfader said:

 

This is the Part No# VP 3858975, but when I took a look at what is actually there it looks totally different. The top is flat with the plug wires coming out from the side. It's grey in color.

The marina I had do the work seems to be corrupt. I originally took it in to have a temp sensor and bilge pump replaced, but when I got it home the bilge and the temp gauge didn't work. I took out the backseat to inspect the bilge pump. I found that they did not even replace the old, it was yellowed with age. They didn't bother cleaning out the bilge area and all the wiring was just laying in the water. I collected about 30 screws, washers, bolts and even a 1/4 in snap-on socket wrench and screwdriver. I bought and installed a new bilge pump, tied off the wiring out of reach of water, and cleaned the bilge area of debris. I tell you this, because they have done all the work on my boat and now I don't trust them enough to know where else they may have cheated me.

I am no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I would like to know something to maybe help guide the NEW mechanic that will look at it. I am tired of being taken advantage of!

Btw, they charged me for the pump, float switch, and sensor, plus labor, but did nothing but collect my money!  CROOKS!!!!

Cap.PNGt.png

t.png

The cap pictured is for a 6 cylinder engine, and yours is a V-8. The cap you are referring to is known as a crab cap and they are notorious for pre-mature failure. A good alternative to OEM Volvo is a NAPA Gold as specified for a 1997 Chevy pick up with a 5.7.  Solid brass contacts, just be sure to replace the rotor also.

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/search/?text=Distributor%20Cap&isApplication=true&isInterchange=true&referer=herofitmentForm-newveh

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I live in SW Florida (Cape Coral). I am new to boating and bought this boat understanding that I may have to put some money into it. This marina charged almost $4,000. the first time around (3-1-16) and it seemed to run fine. But it ran okay before that, too. During that repair job they supposedly replaced the fuel pump and camshaft sensor. The pump I think they did, because it is where I can see it. The camshaft sensor? They told me this last time that the camshaft sensor appeared on code, but did not address that. Also, during the first repair I had the gas polished and certified (they contracted that out). I also had the injectors all recertified, maybe? Other things supposedly done were fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs, IAC control, anti-si9phon valve, distributor cap, and rotor, but because of how they cheated me on the bilge pump, I don't know if these things were actually done.

On May 5th I had them replace the serpentine belt ($144.23), boat ran fine. Now here is where it gets interesting. I took the boat on July 10th to have them install a new bilge pump and tem sensor. The boat started and ran fine all the way to the marina (about a 45 minute ride from my condo). I ran perfectly fine in idle and WOT. I docked it at their pier for them to do the work requested. They called me the next day and told me that the boat was running very rough, and asked if I had experienced any issues. I told them no, that it ran great and had no issues. Upon arriving at the marina the kid mechanic told me that the water pump needed to be replaced. I gave my permission to do so. The manager told me, because the water pump went bad that it shorted out my alternator and that would need to be replaced. I gave my permission to do so. Then the manager told me that, because of the alternator going bad, that it backfed to my computer and I would need to replace that (that part alone was $1,781.95).  I told him to go ahead. A few days goes by and the kid mechanic tells me that the belt was being shredded because of a bad tensioner and I would need to replace that. I told him that I just had them replace the belt about a month earlier and why if I had a bad tensioner, why didn't he replace it then? I did some research about his diagnosis of why the belt was bad. He said there was belt shaving and very fine residue coming from the belt. What I found is that when a water pump goes bad in can leave a trail of black spin-off from the water mixing with the dirt and grime. That was the pattern I denoted at the time.  Anyway I have them put on a new belt and tensioner. A couple of days later the computer comes in and is installed, but the manager tells me that I will need two new batteries, because when the alternator went bad it grounded out my batteries. I gave my go ahead to replace. Boat was still not starting or running properely, the manager said he had to have the computer reprogramed. So now I get the call that my boat is ready and runs great. I go to the marnia to take my boat out and it won't start. The kid mechanic tried to convincer me that I would need to reset the main breaker each time. I said this was unacceptable and made no logic. They claimed that a bolt had sheared off on the starter for whatever reason, I don't know. Then they decided to replace the starter without my permission. Total cost for this nightmare $4332.57.

I took the boat from them and motored to my condo and ceased business with them. I took the boat out only one time since that repair and it ran fine. The second time is when the issues appeared. I have a mobile marine mechanic coming out tomorrow to look at it. I will be sure to ask him if all these parts they claim they have changed out were actually changed out. Oh, I found out about them scamming on the bilge pump and float switch when I got it home from the marina and the bilge did not work. Went to check it out and noticed that it was the same old one that was there, yellowed with age. Put a new one in and it works great.

Cape Coral Marine Center is the name of the marina. If I find out they ripped me off, it will be lawyer time!

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Okay guys, here's the update. The mechanic told me I had a worn out connector (Deutsch ?) on the fuel pump. This caused the high pressure pump to not work properly. He said this could cause the backfiring I experienced. He said that I could start and idle fine, but when I start to power up it could lose its connection and start to backfire. He also denoted a damaged IAC. He said whomever installed it crushed it with a pair of pliers. So he is ordering the connector part and the IAC. He said it is a 15-20 minute job. I asked about the fuel pump's condition. He said it was old, working good. I told him that it was supposed to be brand new. He said it was either original, several years old, or they replaced it with a used one. They charged me for a brand new Volvo pent part from the marina. Bottom line, they took advantage of my lack of knowledge, my trust, and my inexperience.

 

Wingnut, I did ask him about the "crab cap". He said exactly what you said, that they are cheaply made and prone to failure. I asked him if I should replace that, and he advised to wait and see. He said it is doing fine right now and no need to replace it prematurely, but to be aware of the potential issue.

Thanks for your advice, I do really appreciate it.

 

Now if I can only learn to not be made a fool of, life will be good

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Yay, your account reads like a classic old car repair scam. Sorry to hear ... live and learn is a take away here.

One advice that will stop a lot of that nonsense and will protect your wallet to some extend ... always ask to see the problem part/area with your own eyes, and always ask for YOUR old part back no matter how rusted or broken they are. Taking the photos before and after can also help in case of dispute.

If you found a good and honest service now, keep it!

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