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EricGT

Do I just have a cheap trailer?

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It appears one of the reasons my skeg drags on the ground is because the boat sets so low on the trailer.

This is both a bad and good thing.  Yes, it does cause the skeg to drag when pulling up onto a steep incline.  However, it also allows me to back the boat into an 8' overhead opening. On the trailer the top of the windshield is only 92".

When looking at my trailer for bunk adjustment, there is none.  They mount right onto the brackets, no vertical adjustment.  I suppose one could fabricate new brackets to mount onto the trailer rails...

It is an MTI trailer which to my understanding is now out of business and may (or may not) have been involved in building Chaparral trailers at one time.  This I have heard conflicting reports.

Anyway, I like the trailer and the looks of it and have no inclination to suddenly replace it.  I'm just curious to how many trailers typically come with adjustable bunks.

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Just trim the drive up to get in & out of places. They can take being moved around while tilted up. They can take WOT starts no problem.  Moving around is nothing.

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^^^ What he said.  I have an MTI trailer just like that.  "Custom" made for the 2004 204SSi  - wasn't cheap!  They are no longer in business.  Do you have your outdrive trimmed all the way up?

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You could cut off the fixed bunk brackets and replace with adjustable U bolt mounted brackets, then reinstall your bunks at the desired height. Any trailer store will have the brackets and they are not that expensive. The hardest part will be doing something with the boat while you work on the trailer. Can you borrow someone's slip for a couple days?

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2 hours ago, Phillbo said:

I believe he has it trimmed all the way up and is still having issues with the skeg dragging.

Yes.  It is always trimmed up except when in the water and when stored. 

So Keith, MTI trailers are decent?  Can't find much on them.

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2 minutes ago, Chap243 said:

You could cut off the fixed bunk brackets and replace with adjustable U bolt mounted brackets, then reinstall your bunks at the desired height. Any trailer store will have the brackets and they are not that expensive. The hardest part will be doing something with the boat while you work on the trailer. Can you borrow someone's slip for a couple days?

See my fallacy with doing that is then it won't fit in my pole building.  I will need to knock out a larger door opening and new overhead door.

My main concern was if most trailers have adjustable bunks and if mine was just a bargain brand since I can't find anything on it.

 

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Worse case ?  If possible ?  1 size larger diameter tires.    Plus doing the old but effective of letting some air out of the tires before going into the garage. THEN REMEMBERING TO REFILL THE TIRES OUTSIDE. BEFORE DRIVING AWAY.  Lay the trailer lock next to a flat tire or clipped on the air hose. 

Think a lot & it might be possible.

Disconnect the Towing BAL & BAR.  Buy another BALL & BAR.  Install that one upside down with the ball up. Use it for the drive way. ramp.  Disconnect the trailer on the street. Remove the tow bar & ball. Take the ball off the bar. Flip the bar so the ball is in the lowest possible position. Reassemble the ball & hitch. try it going up the ramp. If it works ? Buy another bar & ball.  Hopefully 1 or all will do the job

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Perhaps a pic from the stern would be helpful, since that seems to be where you're having issues.  That way we could see how far up you're trimmed. 

How is the tongue weight? Could the boat be moved forward on the trailer to improve the departure angle some?

Does the trailer sit level attached to the tow vehicle?  2" lower at the tongue could make enough difference at the drive in certain circumstances. 

I wouldn't write off your trailer as "cheap".  I'm sure a solution can be found.  I'll loan you my sawzall to trim that skeg off. JK

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 I think you may have a undersized trailer or a overloaded trailer. Can you post some pictures of the trailer with a side view?  Also a side view showing tire to fender clearance space. Top of tire to bottom of fender above it..

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Wow, you guys definitely have some great ideas!  Thanks!!!

Well as for the skeg, it is already being ground down from the road to a nice angle.  :D I have a post and picture in here elsewhere on that.

This VP does not have the two stage trim process.  Trust me, I tried everything on that one.  It appears it was an option during those model years.

I currently run with the trailer at a level angle as determined by a level.  I'm not quite sure if I can get additional drop out of the hitch because my truck has automatic air leveling suspension.  I don't understand it completely but it does adjust if it sense too much weight on the rear of the truck.

I'll try to get a pic cyclops, but the boat/trailer is currently at the shop having some off-season mods completed.  Besides the actuator, it appears the trailer is in good condition.  Here is a pic of it prior to taking it into the shop.

16106013_10202505107584956_4841400485753

 

 

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Others have suggested trimming the skeg.  Is there any downside to that?  If not, that seems like the easiest solution unless that still doesn't give enough clearance. 

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skeg helps with steering and tracking.

Your trailer is designed to keep the center of gravity low which is a good thing for stability.  But the downside is the problem you are having.  Depending on the axles you have, if they are torsion axles like the UFP ones I used to have, you can rotate the trailing arms by 1 tooth on the spline and gain several inches of height.  They are designed to give height adjustment.  I'd start there.

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Also, check tongue weight on trailer.  Its hard to see, but my engineering eyeball is showing me that you may have a bit too much weight rearward.  My opinion is based on a couple of things.  First, the engine and out drive are probably a third or more of the weight of the boat.  That would tell me that the axles should be about 1/3 from rear of boat.  It could be the perspective, but they look about a foot too far forward.  Second, again looking at the perspective, I should see about equal space between top of tire and fender.  It looks like there is a bit more showing on the front wheel.  Give the perspective of the picture, I would think there should be a bit less.  Maybe you are dragging a bit from weight distribution?

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Tongue weight wont matter on a self leveling Denali, and you cant override this function. May change the drop of your hitch.

Here's a tongue in cheek advice. Elevate your bunks, but dig out grooves in the ground of your parking spot ;)

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2 hours ago, EricGT said:

Explain to a novice, what is the purpose of the skeg?  To protect the prop?

Yes, it's primary job is to protect the prop.

This will not help your issue but it does appear the boat sits a little too far aft on the trailer. If adjustable you may want to consider moving the wench tower forward to get the bunks all the way back to the transom. 

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Unfortunately since the boat is not home, I am resorting to looking at the pictures as are you guys.

It appears the axles are not adjustable as the fender wells are welded to the frame.

Now the part about the winch does sound of interest!

I'll ask the shop if they can check the tongue weight.  So for a 6000# GVWR load, it appears the tongue weight should be 600#?

It seems to me puling the boat forward another 6" or so would make some difference.

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How about doubling up on the bunks?  Stack 2 together; increase by 1.5"

It would cost ya some hardware and carpet. 

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