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What is the difference between "limited slip compatible" and "non limited slip" comparable lower unit synthetic oil? 

My DPS-A states it requires synthetic 75-90 W, GL-5, non limited slip oil. Around here finding this type of oil is almost impossible. What harm would really be done by using Mobil 1 or Lucas synthetic "limited slip" oil. Could someone that knows oil explain the difference and harm that using this could possibly cause, if any.

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Your drive has a cone clutch in it that is really picky about additives. The LS lubes have a friction modifier added and Mobil-1 would be fine in an Alpha drive with a simple dog clutch, but would be an issue in a Volvo or Bravo drive. A member here used Amsoil, and lost a drive blaming it on poor lubrication. Truth of the matter was, that stuff is just too slick and allowed his cone clutch to loose bite at high load. The Merc HP synthetic is available in 2-1/2 gallon containers for a very reasonable price on line so availability for you should not be an issue. That's the best there is for either the Volvo or Bravo drive.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/mercury-marine--quicksilver-high-performance-90w-gear-lube-2-5-gallons--5345301?cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-Shopping_PLAs-_-5345301&product_id=5345301&adpos=1o2&creative=108421551724&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CNDs_Y-npdICFVM2aQodi5oCxA

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9 hours ago, Richard W said:

Slightly off topic ...

What is the shelf life of this lube? What is the expected shelf life of traditional and synthetic oils in general?

Two things can happen with oils, and greases. Oil likes to drink up moisture from the surrounding atmosphere so a sealed container is essential. The second enemy is additive fall out which can be nullified by agitation. If you are in question, pour the first quart in, and look in the bottom of the bottle for any sediment and if its there, shake the remaining quarts vigorously before pouring them in, using some of that oil to wash out the first bottle. In order for this to be an issue, the subject oil would need to be 5 years old or more as the formulations are designed to keep the particulate in suspension. Synthetics are actually better and holding on to their additive package, as they do not require such a heavy additive treat because they are just that good in their base form. Greases are nothing but solids, mixed with a carrier oil which will separate over time. These too need to be stored in a sealed container, and if separation has occured, the compound needs to be mixed together. Easy if it's in a bulk bucket, but not so much if you are dealing with a tube.  Gear oils are the worse as they are loaded with heavy metal additives in a hypoid extreme pressure application. Same rules apply though as mixing old lube with a small paint mixer would make ten year oil lube new again as the individual components do net degrade over time.  So many here talk about cleaning out the bottom of the lube bottle as it seems to have a nasty paste in the bottom. That's the good stuff.     W

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Agree with Wingnut 100 % On some separation of oil ingredients over LONG periods of time.  YEARS to be ex act. Free still sealed ACE HARDWARE 2 stroke oil.  I still shake all oil containers to this day before opening & pouring.  You never know if your can was blended not so perfectly.  Give your [parts a fighting chance to serve you well.  Shake & use.

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1 hour ago, Richard W said:

Good info ... thanks.

Shake or mix, and use ... good for up to five years if stored sealed, synthetics even longer.

More like 25 years but by that time the industries chemistry will have changed. The latest is GTL technology where the base stock is derived from natural gas and has a very high, desirable base number, and the only by-product is zero sulfur diesel fuel. Gas to Liquids is in the new Shell Synthetics.

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Wing, thanks for your help. I ended up just buying three quarts of Amsoil marine gear oil this time. The price per quart was very reasonable, the taxes and shipping was a fourth of the total cost however.

In my research, I did learn that one of the specifics of "marine" gear oil, in addition to the LS v. non LS differences is that true "marine" gear oil is designed to absorb water, unlike "non-marine" gear oil. Amsoil states that it will absorb up to 10% water intrusion. I believe the Mercury and Volvo gear oils are similar.

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1 hour ago, Chap243 said:

Wing, thanks for your help. I ended up just buying three quarts of Amsoil marine gear oil this time. The price per quart was very reasonable, the taxes and shipping was a fourth of the total cost however.

In my research, I did learn that one of the specifics of "marine" gear oil, in addition to the LS v. non LS differences is that true "marine" gear oil is designed to absorb water, unlike "non-marine" gear oil. Amsoil states that it will absorb up to 10% water intrusion. I believe the Mercury and Volvo gear oils are similar.

It's your drive but I've yet to find a non-OEM gear oil that is compatible with a cone clutch. To your other point, marine lubes have emulsifiers so that water and oil will mix providing some level of lubrication throughout the gear case in the event of a leak. Turbine and conventional gear oils have demulsifiers which allow the free water to drop out of suspension and settle out at the bottom of the gear case, to be drained out during the next oil change. Too much turbulence in an out drive and the absence of a lower sump negates that as a possibility.  I strongly recommend that you do not use the Amsoil, and that you pick up some OEM drive lube.  Amsoil and even Mobil-1 gear oil is fine in off-shore racing drives like the Merc Speed-master 3 as the clutch is incorporated into the engine mounted transmission. Alpha drives too, but not a Bravo, or a Volvo.     W

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2 hours ago, Wingnut said:

It's your drive but I've yet to find a non-OEM gear oil that is compatible with a cone clutch. To your other point, marine lubes have emulsifiers so that water and oil will mix providing some level of lubrication throughout the gear case in the event of a leak. Turbine and conventional gear oils have demulsifiers which allow the free water to drop out of suspension and settle out at the bottom of the gear case, to be drained out during the next oil change. Too much turbulence in an out drive and the absence of a lower sump negates that as a possibility.  I strongly recommend that you do not use the Amsoil, and that you pick up some OEM drive lube.  Amsoil and even Mobil-1 gear oil is fine in off-shore racing drives like the Merc Speed-master 3 as the clutch is incorporated into the engine mounted transmission. Alpha drives too, but not a Bravo, or a Volvo.     W

Wing, I respect your opinion on oils, so let me ask you this. During my research I uncovered statements that Amsoil at one time made Volvo's oil. Some evidence indicated they still may. Do you know anything about such information?

 

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I know they were making Volvo's 30w synthetic engine oil for the domestic us market for a time, and that turned out to be a total disaster. Many of the majors supply lubes to the OEM's. Some are simple re-brands of an existing Major's product, packaged in the OEM's container. Others are small batch blend to order products targeting a unique, specific application. Neither Volvo of Merc make oils, and in the case of their cone clutch gear oils they send performance criteria to select compounders and ask for a product to suit their needs. Amsoil may very well make the Volvo gear oil for Volvo. That does not however mean that Amsoil has a comparable product in their branded line up.  We made both Honda motor oils and Honda automatic transmission fluids. The engine oil was a simple re-brand in a Honda bottle, and the trans oil was a small volume, propitiatory formulation specific to the Honda and we had nothing even close in our product line. W

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2 minutes ago, chrisoswald said:

Why would you not use the OEM oil?

Speaking for me only, because it is not readily available. Unfortunately I do not live next to a large body of water and "marine" related vendors are not prevalent. Auto part stores are a dime a dozen. Just nice to be able to walk in and buy a product off the shelf and take it home to use.  Instead of ordering, paying shipping and waiting five days to receive.

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Good luck with it.  I'm pretty risk averse and would wait a handful of days vs rolling the dice but I get what you are saying and options are nice. Amazon prime is a lifesaver for me in those rare instances where I can't find something local.  

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I had a 2008 Chap extreme with the volvo GXI 320 hp, and the Volvo DPS duo prop. I changed my gear oil once a season, always at the end of the season before I put her away for the winter. I always used Volvo gear oil. Never had an issue, because you only change it once a season, wait and get the Volvo gear lube. Better to be safe than sorry.

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9 hours ago, Chap243 said:

Speaking for me only, because it is not readily available. Unfortunately I do not live next to a large body of water and "marine" related vendors are not prevalent. Auto part stores are a dime a dozen. Just nice to be able to walk in and buy a product off the shelf and take it home to use.  Instead of ordering, paying shipping and waiting five days to receive.

Think about it, then don't do it. Learn from the experience of several here who have gambled and failed. I've never used a Merc or Volvo engine oil in a marine application in over 50 years of boating because after 40 years working in the oil industry, and my years as a GM Master Technician, I understand the special requirements of a boat engine, and I know there are a handful of high quality, cost effective alternatives. Mobil-1 15w-50 was marketed as Volvo Marine synthetic in Europe for a time until Volvo found a cheaper alternative. If you search this forum, you will find a few who have attempted to substitute aftermarket gear oils including Amsoil in a cone clutch out drive, with disastrous results. Availability is an inconvenience, not a deal breaker as both Merc and Volvo OEM oils are available online from several suppliers, including even Amazon. If you go forward with a synthetic 90w that is devoid of the friction modifier I truly believe that your cone clutch will not properly bite and will subsequently slip at speed. You will not feel it or notice it happening until the contact face is gone and you are limping home. It's not about adequate lubrication, it's about a simple compound included in both the Volvo and Merc lube that causes the clutches to grab as intended. GM did the same thing with their Dextron transmission fluids designed to work with a fiber clutch pack. I'm done trying to convince you but if you suffer a failure at least we tried.  W

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11 hours ago, chrisoswald said:

Why would you not use the OEM oil?

 

10 hours ago, chrisoswald said:

Good luck with it.  I'm pretty risk averse and would wait a handful of days vs rolling the dice but I get what you are saying and options are nice. Amazon prime is a lifesaver for me in those rare instances where I can't find something local.  

Think it depends.  engine oil no risk in using mobil 1 and saving money.  Buying merc and Volvo oil just means wasting money needlessly and or waiting more time and hassle to get it, for 0 added value.  now gear oil is another thing. For that I have always used the quick silver high performance gear lube on both mercs and Volvo and it has been great.  Actually get it from gander for about 10 bucks a bottle.

 

For small things like a few bottles of oil its not worth going cheap, but don't be the sucker to fall for labels either.

 

But Ive said it before Im not a buyer of the ill sleep better at night mentality, just doesn't register to me, not logical.  IMO take the time to research what Im doing and make the informed decision not what manufacture wants in order to line their pockets even further.

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7 minutes ago, soldier4402 said:

 

Think it depends.  engine oil no risk in using mobil 1 and saving money.  Buying merc and Volvo oil just means wasting money needlessly and or waiting more time and hassle to get it, for 0 added value.  now gear oil is another thing. For that I have always used the quick silver high performance gear lube on both mercs and Volvo and it has been great.  Actually get it from gander for about 10 bucks a bottle.

 

For small things like a few bottles of oil its not worth going cheap, but don't be the sucker to fall for labels either.

 

But Ive said it before Im not a buyer of the ill sleep better at night mentality, just doesn't register to me, not logical.  IMO take the time to research what Im doing and make the informed decision not what manufacture wants in order to line their pockets even further.

And the Merc HP stuff is out there in 2-1/2 gallon bottles for a little over 100 bucks. Last time I checked, a Bravo 3-X was listed at around 14K.

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Here is a link to the product that was purchased. Would someone look it over and let me know if they truly feel it is inferior to OEM. I don't know, I admit I am no expert. While the Amsoil product has been purchased, it has not yet been installed. If the consensus is that it is an inferior product, then maybe I`ll eat the three quarts and $50 deer and buy OEM. I have always have had the impression that Amsoil was a high quality product. I believe they invented synthetic motor oil.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/universal-synthetic-marine-gear-lube/?code=AGMTB-EA

 

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On 2/23/2017 at 8:43 PM, Chap243 said:

What is the difference between "limited slip compatible" and "non limited slip" comparable lower unit synthetic oil? 

My DPS-A states it requires synthetic 75-90 W, GL-5, non limited slip oil. Around here finding this type of oil is almost impossible. What harm would really be done by using Mobil 1 or Lucas synthetic "limited slip" oil. Could someone that knows oil explain the difference and harm that using this could possibly cause, if any.

Obviously, you were concerned enough to post a question and Wingnut, as always, gave a very detailed explanation on why you shouldn't use alternative gear lube instead of the OEM recommended products.  If it was me, I would follow his advice since I like to sleep well at night and also protect something that is dear to me.

Good luck with whatever you decide!

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2 hours ago, soldier4402 said:

the sky can fall too, just never know.

 

But isn't quicksilver=merc?

Yes, same, same, same, same, same. Merc branded is sold by the dealers and Quicksilver is marketed by third party retailers.

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I agree with Wingnut and would personally never use anything other than Volvo as I can get it on Amazon Prime for pretty cheap.

That being said, a little bird told me that Amsoil manufactures the VP 75w-90 and my guess it is exactly the same as the one you have linked to. 

 

 

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