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Onefastaudi

More deer for the generator

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Here we go again! Generator would run 5 minutes and stop. 

Replaced fuel filter, overheating switch, plugs, impeller, and still same issue.

Today I replaced the low oil pressure switch and surprise!!! Opaque brown oil! Remind be the dipstick, and et voila! Fuel in the oil!!! 

So, what say you?

fuel pump, carb or rings??

thank you all as usual. 

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Lack of enough water to cool it ? Stuck thermostat. 

BUT   A cooling system that has water in it is terrible. THe brown oil. Split cooling system now running into the oil ?   Hope not............DO NOT RUN ANYMORE until you find out what causes the opaque brown oil  !!!!

Pay a service mechanic.

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Help needed!!! Replaced plugs, impeller, fuel filter, oil, oil filter, carburetor solenoid, overheating switch, low oil pressure switch and my generator still dies off after 7 minutes running. What am I missing

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3 minutes ago, Onefastaudi said:

Help needed!!! Replaced plugs, impeller, fuel filter, oil, oil filter, carburetor solenoid, overheating switch, low oil pressure switch and my generator still dies off after 7 minutes running. What am I missing

Should be both at temperature switch on the cooling water jacket, and another on on the exhaust manifold. When it dies, do you still have a good spark? Have you tried to squirt some gasoline into the air intake to see if it restarts? Sometimes a weak fuel pump can't overcome the anti-siphon valve at the fuel tank. I'm not someone who replaces parts without testing and in this case I would start wit a spark test, and then fuel pressure. Also, put a 12 volt test light on the pig tail leading to the carb solenoid to see if power remains as the thing is shutting down. Test, Test, Test, Repair.   Lest frustration and always cheaper.  W

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14 minutes ago, Wingnut said:

Should be both at temperature switch on the cooling water jacket, and another on on the exhaust manifold. When it dies, do you still have a good spark? Have you tried to squirt some gasoline into the air intake to see if it restarts? Sometimes a weak fuel pump can't overcome the anti-siphon valve at the fuel tank. I'm not someone who replaces parts without testing and in this case I would start wit a spark test, and then fuel pressure. Also, put a 12 volt test light on the pig tail leading to the carb solenoid to see if power remains as the thing is shutting down. Test, Test, Test, Repair.   Lest frustration and always cheaper.  W

I have fuel in my oil so I thought the solenoid was at fault. But it's not. I just ran with new solenoid and checked my oil, still have fuel in it. :-(

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2 hours ago, Onefastaudi said:

I have fuel in my oil so I thought the solenoid was at fault. But it's not. I just ran with new solenoid and checked my oil, still have fuel in it. :-(

 

2 hours ago, Onefastaudi said:

I have fuel in my oil so I thought the solenoid was at fault. But it's not. I just ran with new solenoid and checked my oil, still have fuel in it. :-(

Solenoid does prevent leak down while gen set is at rest, however if your engine is in an over fuel condition while running then it's time to get into the Carburetor and check for failed float or bad needle and seat. Your unit may have a diaphragm type carb but I doubt it. Either way it sounds like the carb needs to come apart.  W

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30 minutes ago, Wingnut said:

 

Solenoid does prevent leak down while gen set is at rest, however if your engine is in an over fuel condition while running then it's time to get into the Carburetor and check for failed float or bad needle and seat. Your unit may have a diaphragm type carb but I doubt it. Either way it sounds like the carb needs to come apart.  W

I'll have a compression check and a fuel check next week, then I'll look into the Carb. 2pm here and raining, not feeling like operating on a carb... LOL

Thank you for your advice, it helps.  Have a great weekend. 

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The only way to keep those crummy generators reliable is to run them with a load every time you go boating.  At least 30% load for 30 minutes, turning on the A/C will be enough load and will also dry the moisture out of the boat cabin.  The carb likes to collect debris and water, both of which will screw up the float and value.  I installed a good filter on the gas line and didn't have any more problems.

 

F2845C31-7F35-4ED8-80C1-5D344E9E80E3_zps
 

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Generator issue fixed, impeller debris everywhere in the heat exchanger that I was unable to clean up. Got a tech to do it at work. Since it was at work, hauled out the boat, did the bottom job paint, of course Zincs, props, full compound ensued. Plus a new VHF radio, a new steering wheel and all the fiberglass nicks, dents and what not, fixed. I also drilled a second hole in the anchor locker to increase drainage as it will fill up during the very heavy rain we get here in Houston. We also replaced the fridge and I fabricated a drawer with a full face to attach the tv above the sink. Finally we installed a power outlet in the aft cabin next to the light switch and a triple dial volt/amps meter by the battery switch so that I can check the batteries without opening the hatch or going in the cabin. That was a substantial amount of deers but well worth it. The boat looks fantastic and ready for the season. 

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