KY 256ssi

256ssi questions

22 posts in this topic

Has anyone tried using a Dolphin fin on the out drive? I've tried on my old 18 ft Stingray and it seemed to help plain out faster. Was wondering about the 256 being so much bigger.

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On smaller boats, I would try a set of Smart Tabs. On my 19 and 21 footer they made a fair improvement. Even made big waves a lot easier to handle.

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1 hour ago, KY 256ssi said:

Has anyone tried using a Dolphin fin on the out drive? I've tried on my old 18 ft Stingray and it seemed to help plain out faster. Was wondering about the 256 being so much bigger.

IMG_6780.jpg

Merc actually had put out a bulletin about un-intended induced stresses imparted into the lower gear housing as a result of using those type on planing fins. My 256 SSX is the same hull and I bought it new. The first step if you have a Merc Bravo III is to rotate the trim cylinder trailing end bushing to the full in position which gives you an additional 1-1/4" trim down. Takes two minutes and costs you nothing. That said. I would really recommend adding 9" x 9" hydraulic or electo-mechanical trim tabs as that installation will make you think your boat just grew by 4'. Faster time to plane, and really calms the bow down in a chop. Also nice to be able to adjust for uneven side loading due to passengers and gear. Several here have added them and can give you a true before and after evaluation and absolutely no one has ever had any second thoughts. Just having them hanging there in the full up position greatly improves the ride characteristics of that hull, and once you get the hang of how to deploy them, welcome to a whole new world.  W

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Like W said check the bravo bushing.  If you change it you will need to recalibrate your trim gauge.  Also powered trim tabs are easily the top add-on I've done.  Boat is totally different in rough water and definitely helps in plane time.  

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Short answer, Not a good idea......

 

A set of 12x12 tabs is the way to go. I waited a few years to add a set, the difference was night and day.

 

.

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8 minutes ago, Toddler said:

Short answer, Not a good idea......

 

A set of 12x12 tabs is the way to go. I waited a few years to add a set, the difference was night and day.

 

.

Agree 110% with this. Did mine after reports from WingNut and Toddler. I also have the 12x12 edge-mounts. Different boat. Stopped porpoising and pops up a bit quicker. Can stay on plane at lower speeds.  Rarely have this many people, but will easily jump on plane with 10 people on board (Volvo 8.1 GXi).

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yup, I'm part of the 256/tab club.  I did what Wingnut said and it was the best upgrade I've done.  Boat stays on plane and low speed and I get very little bowrise when planing with a load of people.  It's great when pulling the kids on the tube cause I can keep my speed down and still be on plane

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I put in Lenco's' takes most of the day. I moved the fuel gauge to the flat panel below the Tach, moved the depth gauge over to th left. Installed the switches in that upper right side of that switch panel.

 

image_zpsjqnnolnv.jpg

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I'm a fan of the hydraulic type like the Benette 1212E's. With the space limitations due to the swim platform, you will need to exchange the standard length cylinders for the optional shorties, which Benette will do free of charge. Just be sure to take your time and move the tabs outward as far as possible for a proper installation. Too far in contributes to excessive stern lift at speed which and cause chine walking and can disturb water flow to the prop during tight maneuvers. Get the right tabs, get them out near the hard chine, and enjoy your new boat.  W

ShortCylinder.jpg

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I've always been under the impression that the whale tales or whatever name they go by are for outboards.  Trim tabs by whatever name and style are absolutely the way to go.  When I see a tale on an i/o...I generally see an inexperience boater which is what surprised me that you have on on your boat.  

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I'm getting ready to install tabs on my 256 SSX as well. Wingnut...I tried to look up your install pictures and didn't have any luck. Are they still online?

Thank you,

Don

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Thank you very much!! I really appreciate the information. A few pictures helps...at least in my mind...before I drill holes!! I installed tabs and Corsa exhaust on a crownline I had and everything went fine, but just wanting to be sure. I've sent the longer actuators back and will start this as soon as the shorter ones get here.

The information you guys give out is really appreciated.

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23 minutes ago, DW said:

Thank you very much!! I really appreciate the information. A few pictures helps...at least in my mind...before I drill holes!! I installed tabs and Corsa exhaust on a crownline I had and everything went fine, but just wanting to be sure. I've sent the longer actuators back and will start this as soon as the shorter ones get here.

The information you guys give out is really appreciated.

The limiting factor is the cylinder length so get the shorties, and get them outboard as far as possible. I powder coated my trim planes black and after 8 seasons they look new.  Getting the Euro-Style rocker switch to fit into the spare helm knock-out takes some careful filing of the plastic and a thicker mounting gasket but I really like the placement during operation.    W

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Does anyone have any inside engine compartment photos of where the wire or hoses come thru just wondering if they are above the flat section where the batteries and hold tank sit?    

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On 3/5/2017 at 10:29 AM, Wingnut said:

Merc actually had put out a bulletin about un-intended induced stresses imparted into the lower gear housing as a result of using those type on planing fins. My 256 SSX is the same hull and I bought it new. The first step if you have a Merc Bravo III is to rotate the trim cylinder trailing end bushing to the full in position which gives you an additional 1-1/4" trim down. Takes two minutes and costs you nothing. That said. I would really recommend adding 9" x 9" hydraulic or electo-mechanical trim tabs as that installation will make you think your boat just grew by 4'. Faster time to plane, and really calms the bow down in a chop. Also nice to be able to adjust for uneven side loading due to passengers and gear. Several here have added them and can give you a true before and after evaluation and absolutely no one has ever had any second thoughts. Just having them hanging there in the full up position greatly improves the ride characteristics of that hull, and once you get the hang of how to deploy them, welcome to a whole new world.  W

W,

Do you know of any instructions online to move the trim bushing and calibrate the gauge?

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The bushing is really an easy flip. Bring your drive down until the skeg is gently resting on a wood block. Take two 5/8" box wrenches and remove one of the nuts from the trim cylinder trailing end anchor pin, and when the pin has been removed, elevate both cylinder ends about 2" so that you can see the white eccentric bushing that will remain in the gear case. Take note of where the stainless steel spacer washers were located. Reach in and rotate the bushing 180 degrees, and then remove the wood block as you move the drive up and down by hand until the cylinder anchor pin can be reinstalled easily. A little silicone lube and another set of hands helps. Re-install the washers and nuts and you are good to go.

If you have the square Smart Craft gauges, re-calibration is easy. Put the drive full down, and with the key on and engine off, hold down the enter button until the menu screen appears. Page through using the up button until the TRIM CALIBRATION screen appears, then select using enter. The screen will say is your drive full down? if it is select yes, then put the drive full up, and you will be asked if the drive is full up. Press yes and you are good to go.  W

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Wingnuts observation about all stern drive boats is my biggest complaint. Terrible bouncing of the bow in rougher water. 

Center engine boats are fine with no gadgets. They simply push the water sideways. They do not climb over each wave. That said. They can be much wetter ridding boats because you CAN NOT tilt the prop down to raise the bow in very high waves.

We really need to own 4 to 6 different boat sizes & shapes.    :wub:

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