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cyn5351

Another Advise on Engine replacement

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Hello

Just got the dreaded call from mechanic...... cracked engine block. 2004 chaparral 204 mercruiser 5.0L carb.

My mechanic is a good guy known him for along time. After almost throwing up & curling up into a ball, I've decided What was done was done. I'm not going to cry about spilled milk. 

  His advise is replace with brand new engine. $5800 total cost including labor. Since we don't know what else could be wrong. 

I get online and do some research and decided I'm not knowledgable enough to have it repaired and seen some guys have problems with local machine shops etc. I don't have the skills to do it myself.

Tossed around the options including selling as is but broke my heart to do so cuz I knew I'd probably never get a new one or if I did it would be a long time from now. 

I'm going with the replace advise, but upgrade to 350 5.7 long block not sure about new or reman. Mechanic says he gets his new for $3400. If I find a better deal let him know. I got some info from him on what should be included etc.  His labor is 18 hrs @ $90 so what ever engine I choose $1620 added in labor. I would like to get this taken care of in the best possible way without spending top dollar.

My question is for those guys who have been through this process where can I get the best deal  on reman? Who has best reputation on reman?

I've seen positive comments on Michigan motors. I also came across Center State and they have some pretty good prices. Of course before I pull the trigger I'll get feedback from my guy.

Reman

http://www.michiganmotorz.com/vortec-marine-engine-1996-current-p-68.html

http://centerstateengine.com/remanufactured-marine-engines/remanufactured-5.7l-vortec-marine-base-engine-replaces-years-1996-present/

http://centerstateengine.com/remanufactured-marine-engines/remanufactured-5.7l-vortec-marine-base-engine-with-intake-manifold-replaces-years-1996-present/

There is no rush at this time since it's still chilly but I would like to be able to use the boat this summer. I've got some time to figure out how to pay for it. 

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Just curious: if it's still chilly where you are, why was someone de-winterizing your boat (assuming that's when the block crack was discovered)?

And if the boat was winterized to begin with, who did it (you have a mechanic, so I'm assuming you didn't winterize yourself)?

If a pro winterized your engine, and it cracked, they should be throwing up and curling up, not you, as they should be on the hook for replacement. Also, some insurance policies will cover freeze damage.

Or maybe the crack happened for entirely other reasons, like the boat was dropped on its head...

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It was dropped on its head. The who done it irreverent other than it was not a professionals fault. At this point it does not good to cast blmae. I just want to get it fixed in the best and most cost efficient manner. 

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On a 2004 I would think that you have gotten at least 500 hours out of the old engine so that's something. The 350/5.7 is a natural upgrade and shop carefully as there are both 2 bolt and 4 bolt main bearing models out there for around the same price, and the 4 bolt engines are preferred. As you will be seeing at least 60 more horsepower depending on what engine you pick, there is a possibility that a prop change might be required also. If your old engine was able to see 5,000 rpm at WOT, then expect the new one to bounce off the rev limiter. Also if you are buying a crate engine, how complete is it? Some marine re-power engines are "dressed" and include new water circulation pumps, manifolds, risers, intake, oil pan, and marine thermostat. If you are buying a bare long block then you are depending on your old engine as a hardware donor which could include plugs, plug wires, oil pan, distributor and the like. First I would talk to your mechanic and have him itemize exactly what you are buying. Sounds like he is a stand up guy as he is giving you the option of sourcing the replacement, but if that is the case know what you are buying. If I was doing your engine, I would go through the starter, inspect and re-gasket the manifolds and risers, new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, alternator bearings and brushes, water pump, thermostat, inspect the coupler and flywheel ring gear, motor mounts, exhaust hoses, exhaust flappers, and belts and hoses. The list is long and I am not an advocate of replacing anything "just in case", but on a 2004 you have to expect a few surprises once the old engine is sitting on the shop floor. Deep pitted rust on the oil pan, paper thin manifolds and risers, and a few bolts snapped off in the old block. Good luck and remember too that if you supply the engine then any warranty issue is your problem and not the mechanics. W

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I'm with Wing. Do it once, do it right and leave the warranty concerns with the installer. You may pay a little more now or a lot more and time lost later.

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1 hour ago, cyn5351 said:

We're in austin area.

I've used a couple of these and was very satisfied. Free shipping too, and at least you can look at the options available. You have a Vortec with center bolt valve covers, and a one piece rear main seal, but be sure to check to see if your timing cover is plastic of metal. Some of these offerings come with oil pan and some without.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/first-mate-marine

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I don't have advice on new versus reman, but if you want to use the boat this summer I'd get the ball rolling.  A couple of year ago I had engine problems ('93 Merc 350 block) at the beginning of the summer.  Long story short, it required a rebuild and there were delays in locating and procuring parts.  Lost a good deal of the season. You're dealing with a replacement and a newer boat, but expect the unexpected in delays.  Take enough time to ensure you are getting what you want, but if you want to be boating this summer, find the deal and pull the trigger.

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Summit used to give a 2 year on almost all high output engines. Paid more.  But if you like long WOT  runs?  might be cheaper

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LKQ offers 18 month warranty period.  They are here in Texas so should be one near by.  Shoot me your info and I'll hook you or your shop up with my sales Rep, who is also a trusted friend.  

If you are having the shop do the work, then let them buy the engine and resale it to you.  Sure, it cost you more, but if you have a warranty issue, you only want one throat to choke!

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25 minutes ago, Duane2135 said:

LKQ offers 18 month warranty period.  They are here in Texas so should be one near by.  Shoot me your info and I'll hook you or your shop up with my sales Rep, who is also a trusted friend.  

If you are having the shop do the work, then let them buy the engine and resale it to you.  Sure, it cost you more, but if you have a warranty issue, you only want one throat to choke!

+1, having one person to deal with is golden at times.

Joe

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On 3/11/2017 at 9:53 PM, cyn5351 said:

Hello

Just got the dreaded call from mechanic...... cracked engine block. 2004 chaparral 204 mercruiser 5.0L carb.

My mechanic is a good guy known him for along time. After almost throwing up & curling up into a ball, I've decided What was done was done. I'm not going to cry about spilled milk. 

  His advise is replace with brand new engine. $5800 total cost including labor. Since we don't know what else could be wrong. 

I get online and do some research and decided I'm not knowledgable enough to have it repaired and seen some guys have problems with local machine shops etc. I don't have the skills to do it myself.

Tossed around the options including selling as is but broke my heart to do so cuz I knew I'd probably never get a new one or if I did it would be a long time from now. 

I'm going with the replace advise, but upgrade to 350 5.7 long block not sure about new or reman. Mechanic says he gets his new for $3400. If I find a better deal let him know. I got some info from him on what should be included etc.  His labor is 18 hrs @ $90 so what ever engine I choose $1620 added in labor. I would like to get this taken care of in the best possible way without spending top dollar.

My question is for those guys who have been through this process where can I get the best deal  on reman? Who has best reputation on reman?

I've seen positive comments on Michigan motors. I also came across Center State and they have some pretty good prices. Of course before I pull the trigger I'll get feedback from my guy.

Reman

http://www.michiganmotorz.com/vortec-marine-engine-1996-current-p-68.html

http://centerstateengine.com/remanufactured-marine-engines/remanufactured-5.7l-vortec-marine-base-engine-replaces-years-1996-present/

http://centerstateengine.com/remanufactured-marine-engines/remanufactured-5.7l-vortec-marine-base-engine-with-intake-manifold-replaces-years-1996-present/

There is no rush at this time since it's still chilly but I would like to be able to use the boat this summer. I've got some time to figure out how to pay for it. 

What's broke or what's "cracked".  I would want a proper diagnosis prior to spending anything more.  

The 5.0 in that era had freeze plug issues. I would want to see whats really wrong.  Mine has 650 + hours on it and it runs like new.  

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If you're still up in the air on this, I'll throw in my $0.02 as someone who was in your boat 4 years ago. You can find my sad a$$ story here:  

I'm super satisfied with my decision to buy a factory new  (GM) long block from these guys. http://marinepowerusa.com

I bought through the VP dealer (who is also an MP dealer) who did all the work. 

No problems at all. Great engine. Great install. Would do this over the factory reman, the cost was lower, came with full warranty. I've got pics of it installed, but to big to post. 

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I just went through the "I might have to replace the engine" drama.  I too have the 5.0 VP.

1. Upgrade to the 5.7. Everything will bolt up.

2. If you have a Vortec intake the GM engine you want is 12503284

3. If you DO NOT have a Vortec intake the GM engine you want is 12503283.

Trust me on those part numbers, but double check via Google them yourself.
They are NOT marine engines because the OIL pan does not have the baffles like a marine engine does. Move the current oil pan over from your current motor. Verify the freeze plugs are brass and you're good to go.

NEW from GM for 1800-1900 WITH SHIPPING all day long from MANY places on the internet.  Most rebuilt motors will cost that much or more.

 

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