brclark82

Adding a second battery

61 posts in this topic

I have a question on this topic.  Does the 1/2/both type switch break contact when switching to both from either Batt1 or Batt2.  In other words, if you run Batt1 dead on the hook, and then switch to Batt2 to Start the engine, can you then switch to both to recharge Batt1?  This seems preferable compared to starting on both when Batt1 is completely drained. 

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TNBrett

You need to double check with the manufacture of the actual switch as there are 4-5 brands out there and some that produce a couple different models. Most are make before break though, so safe to go between operating positions with engine running.    

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BE VERY SURE about getting ONLY A .......MAKE........ BEFORE............. BREAK............ SWITCH.   Your alternator will last longer.

I always do ANY SWITCHING with the motors stopped.

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Thanks guys.  This project will have to wait till fall for me, I have way too many other projects right now.  This thread just got me thinking about it.

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On ‎6‎/‎8‎/‎2017 at 8:21 PM, TNBrett said:

I have a question on this topic.  Does the 1/2/both type switch break contact when switching to both from either Batt1 or Batt2.  In other words, if you run Batt1 dead on the hook, and then switch to Batt2 to Start the engine, can you then switch to both to recharge Batt1?  This seems preferable compared to starting on both when Batt1 is completely drained. 

Just as a test. Turn on your cabin lights or any lights. Slowly turn the switch, does the lights go out at any time. I bet the answer is no.

On your other question: In other words, if you............................  Yes, that is the way to do it. You don't want the good battery to drain into the week battery. Start it one the good battery alone. With a combine/ACR there would be no need to put the switch on both. Another reason way I don't like the add a battery kit.

 

 

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The 1/2/1+2/Off switch on mine does interrupt when going from setting to setting.  I can tell because my GPS shuts down whenever I switch to the house battery.

I added a second battery to my 225 this year.  After much back and forth, I took the simple route:

  • Swapped the factory on-off battery disconnect for a 1,2,1+2,Off unit that fits in the same slot
  • Skipped the ACR/VSR from the factory design (more on this below)
  • Added a group 27 AGM for battery 2, and replaced the factory flooded group 24 with a group 24 AGM (the factory tray wouldn't fit a group 27, so I just stuck with the stock size)
  • Wired everything up using the right cables/colors
  • Added decently high end dual charger/conditioner/maintainer (ProMariner ProTournament 24) that has charge/maintain voltages that match the factory recommended profile on the AGM batteries

Now, when I'm on the lake, I just use battery 1 (the group 24) for starting/driving, then flip to battery 2 when anchored.  I don't bother to charge battery 2 from the alternator, but rather just plug the charger in when I get back home or to a dock with power.  If I were on the water for multiple days with no shore power, I'd start running battery 2 when the engine is running, but the odds of needing to do that are pretty slim, given my boating patterns.

Simple, and so far effective.  Haven't slept out overnight yet since putting the dual batteries in, but I had enough juice last year in the old factory flooded group 24 to run the anchor light, along with a few cabin lights and some cell phone charging overnight (no problems starting in the morning), so I expect the dedicated group 27 will a day and night of house loads with no issues.

 

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Ultimately I would love to split the true house loads from the engine/navigation loads and make it all automatic, but the boat isn't wired that way, and it'd be a major job to divide all of that, given the factory electrical system.

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 Totally agree with the "  Know when to stop ! "

  Improving ? Just to keep spending & making a simple operation more complex.

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On 6/8/2017 at 0:36 PM, brclark82 said:

Ok thanks so much everyone for all the info. I finally understand the different options and what the pros/cons of each are.  Still trying to decide which way to go.  I think I would like to go the DCP/ACR route but would also like to learn and do it myself so the easier option may be better. Also have to figure out what battery, battery tray, extra wiring etc I need to go with it.

In the end I'm sure it would be easier to just take it to the dealer but I would like to learn how to do it myself. 

 

I did a similar install to my 2009 196 SSi last summer. I used the automatic charging relay (SI-ACR #7610) from Blue Sea Systems swapped out the stock Blue Sea battery switch with their Dual Circuit Plus m-series switch #6011 (this was an exact replacement/switch so no modification was necessary). I did the load-side install and added appropriate spark proof 100 Amp circuit breakers between the ACR and Dual switch.

The install was not really difficult at all but take time and make your own appropriately sized cables with heavy heat shrink to tidy things up a bit.

For pics and more details see:

http://forum.chaparralboats.com/index.php?/topic/33885-blue-sea-systems-acr-wiring/#comment-365163

 

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