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aviator41

bow bumper on trailer

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Had to replace my Dorsey trailer that came with my 1830 SST due to extreme rusting. Apparently, the boat spent very little time on the trailer (It was on a hydro hoist it's whole life). So I picked up a trailer that used to be under a Four Winns. Apparently it has been modified to hold either a slightly larger boat, or a boat with it's bow ring in a much higher spot.  this means that the bow bumper is very near the rub rail, about 8 inches higher than the bow ring on my boat. obviously this isn't where the bow bumper on the original trailer was. it usually sat just above the bow ring.

This means that when the boat is trailered, the bow winch can actually pull UP on the boat lifting the bow off the bumper. I use a strap to ensure the bow stays seated against the bow bumper. Do I need to move the bumper/winch stand so that the bumper is back in the original spot? This would be a major job that would involved cutting the old bow bumper stand off the trailer and installing a new one that gets bolted in place. If there is no real benefit to moving it, I'd prefer not to however if leaving it as it is will do damage, I'm willing to take on the project.

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Transom fully supported by the support / bunk boards.  The 2 transom straps snugged up. Then move to the trailer bow support brace for adjustments.

Loosen the bolts to slide the vertical support around. Loosen the Ved bow  bracket.. See if you can get the V bracket      UNDER     the boats  bow ring. Just low enough so you can still pull almost straight on the boat. That has always worked for me. Never felt a jarring of the boat on a pothole.

If your boat is TOO HEAVY for the trailer & winch ?   I always then moved the bow winch at least 6" higher than the boat eye.  It seemed to reduce the sliding friction.  If the boat is still dragging too much?  Buy those friction reducing bunk strips. .....BUT   Make sure you have a...............SECOND WAY............to chain the boat bow eye to the trailer.

More than 1 time I drove with the transom straps ......NOT ATTACHED.  Bow winch &  chain shackle did the job O K.

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Is the winch stand or bow roller adjustable? How does the rest of the trailer fit? Post some pics. 

brick

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The boat fits the trailer well and is supported by all four bunks properly. (I rebuilt the bunks) 

20170604_103622_zpsnf8c2ij1.jpg

the winch stand is fixed and welded in place, you can see in this photo that someone has added an extended tongue on the trailer. While it's nice not to have to back the truck into the water, they messed up the geometry by moving the bumper and winch - at least for my boat. They had a 22 foot bayliner on it. they black marks above the bow ring are from the original trailers bumper.

20170604_103726_zpsf6p7vdvi.jpg

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Find someone who can weld. Cut the winch stand post shorter, re-weld the top plate on. Set the height so the winch has a straight horizontal pull to the bow eye. 

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9 hours ago, brick said:

Find someone who can weld. Cut the winch stand post shorter, re-weld the top plate on. Set the height so the winch has a straight horizontal pull to the bow eye. 

+1

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I am capable of doing the work, I just want to make sure I'm not wasting my time doing something that doesn't need to be done. 

I'm tempted to cut it off and replace it with the bolt-on style.

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I don't see the need in spending money on a bolt together winch stand, especially if you can do the work.  What you have looks good, it just needs to be reworked to fit your boat. 

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Boy that is a low bow hook.  I'm not sure I would touch it as I like the higher end where the bower roller is now.  But you will need to keep an eye on that strap as it will fray much easier rubbing on the metal.  That would really be the only reason why I would consider moving it down.

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If you cut it shorter you will need to shift the top plate to the rear further, otherwise you will be moving the boat forward quite a distance.

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Is it possible to wind .....IN ....with the strap on top of the gear  ? Instead of coming in on the bottom of the gear.  Will your locking latch still lock securely ?  That will remove a lot of the strap rubbing on that support bar.   I reversed one of my straps. The latch works equally well.

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42 minutes ago, Phillbo said:

If you cut it shorter you will need to shift the top plate to the rear further, otherwise you will be moving the boat forward quite a distance.

I think the entire stand would have to move, not just the top plate. One of the advantages of having the roller meet the bow ring is to ensure that the boat is on the trailer the same distance every time. i.e. if the bow ring it touching the roller, it's as far on as it can go.

I suppose I could set it up the same way as it sits, either placing a small vinyl sticker on the hull of the boat where the roller would sit so if the roller is on the sticker, it's in the right spot or mark the strap so that it's always deployed the same amount.

my biggest concern is trailering the boat with the roller touching a spot on the bow with no reinforcement inside. The bow ring has a substantial reinforcing plate fibreglassed into the hull (at least it looks that way to me). Where the roller is now, there is no reinforcing. Do I need to worry about a big bump in the road doing damage to the boat? While I don't run around trying to hit potholes I do live in Oklahoma and our roads are just terrible. Especially around lakes.

The reason I am using the strap shown to pull the nose down is to keep it from potentially losing contact with the roller only to come back down and damage the hull. It is very easy to trailer the boat only to find that the bow isn't touching the roller once it's out of the water. I have had to go back down the ramp more than once to re-position the boat. where it sits right now, the rear of the boat is perfectly aligned with the rear of the bunks, just like the original trailer. I am willing to bet that if I remove that strap right now, the nose will come up 1/8 of an inch and not be touching that roller. I'll have to test that when I get home,but I'd put money on it.

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2 minutes ago, cyclops2 said:

Is it possible to wind .....IN ....with the strap on top of the gear  ? Instead of coming in on the bottom of the gear.  Will your locking latch still lock securely ?  That will remove a lot of the strap rubbing on that support bar.   I reversed one of my straps. The latch works equally well.

Yes I think I can do that. I'll give it a shot this evening. Like you, I don't like how it rubs on that round steel rod. It's a fraying point for sure.

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As long as your big yellow wheel can take the pressure of the PULL DOWN strap. All is good. The pull down force does not need to be more than snug . No need for as tight as possible.  Remember no UP looseness ?  No danger.

Looking good.  :)

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From what I can see of your pictures it's still going to be too much of an angle and rub

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I wouldn't worry about the lack of reinforcement at the contact point. The roller itself provides some cushion, and unless you're trying to put it on the trailer on plane, you should have THAT much point load there. The bow is probably the strongest layup on most boats anyway.

I agree that cutting the post height will require moving the roller closer - you can see the difference in the angle of the bow vs the post. The rubbing strap is more of a long term issue to me than the roller contact though.

If it were me, I'd cut the post off and lower the winch. Either move the winch plate back while I had it cut off, or use longer roller arms. Or even better, just weld up a different bracket that puts the roller where i want it and arranges the winch to run correctly.

I'f you've got an angle grinder and a welder, it's an easy afternoon's work to make it right. A little John Deer rattle can and you'r good to go.

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6 hours ago, Ultraclyde said:

I wouldn't worry about the lack of reinforcement at the contact point. The roller itself provides some cushion, and unless you're trying to put it on the trailer on plane, you should have THAT much point load there. The bow is probably the strongest layup on most boats anyway.

I agree that cutting the post height will require moving the roller closer - you can see the difference in the angle of the bow vs the post. The rubbing strap is more of a long term issue to me than the roller contact though.

If it were me, I'd cut the post off and lower the winch. Either move the winch plate back while I had it cut off, or use longer roller arms. Or even better, just weld up a different bracket that puts the roller where i want it and arranges the winch to run correctly.

I'f you've got an angle grinder and a welder, it's an easy afternoon's work to make it right. A little John Deer rattle can and you'r good to go.

John deer ratlle can? nope. this is the perfect opportunity to paint the trailer and get it back in line. I've seen a trailer that was painted with a hammered finish that looks good and hides a multitude of sins. of course, while I'm cutting and welding, there are a few other things on the trailer I'd like to improve.... this may be a post season project.

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On 6/5/2017 at 2:43 PM, Auggie said:

From what I can see of your pictures it's still going to be too much of an angle and rub

Yep, it still rubs. I'll watch the winch strap through the season.

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On 6/6/2017 at 8:07 PM, aviator41 said:

John deer ratlle can? nope. this is the perfect opportunity to paint the trailer and get it back in line. I've seen a trailer that was painted with a hammered finish that looks good and hides a multitude of sins. of course, while I'm cutting and welding, there are a few other things on the trailer I'd like to improve.... this may be a post season project.

LOL, Whassa matter, you no like-a John Deere Green?  The hammered does look great but I don't know how well it stands up to corrosion. I prefer brush-on Rustoleum with a solid brush-on primer coat. Once that crap hardens up it lasts for years.

Sounds like a good chance to make some changes. What you've got there will probably work through the season with no problems. I keep debating making a bunch of changes to mine or just waiting till I find the galvanized trailer I really need.

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