mikeofwarr

Volvo Penta DPS-A Trim/Tilt fuse blown out Twice

12 posts in this topic

I have a 2007 Volvo Penta 5.7 with the DPS-A outdrive as detailed in my signature below. After a day on the lake I tilted the outdrive up to load on the trailer and pulled up to my covered storage area. After stowing everything away and getting ready to head home I tried to lower the outdrive. Nothing happened.

The 10 amp fuse located in the fuse block on top of the engine had blown. Inserted a spare fuse and it immediately blew when I tried to lower the outdrive. So I towed the boat home and began troubleshooting. I removed both relays and the blown fuse. Turned battery power off and removed the trim switch from the control handle. Tested with a multimeter and appeared to be working fine in both switch positions. No sign of burned or bare wires. 

Not knowing what I was doing I loosened the two allen type screws next to the outdrive on the pump cover where the 4 hydraulic lines go in (I was looking for possible electrical connections in that area). When I began to loosen the screws hydraulic fluid started leaking out and the drive slowly came down. I quickly tightened the screws and the fluid stopped. Not much fluid leaked out, just a small puddle in the driveway. Probably only 2 or 3 ounces. 

So I topped the fluid up, replaced the relays and inserted a new 10 amp fuse all the connections were clean and no corrosion present. Turned on battery switch, tried the trim switch and magically the trim motor started working. I have a second trim switch back at the transom and it functions also. After cycling the outdrive up and down once I topped off the fluid again. Cycled the outdrive a few more times and added more fluid. Did this process 5 times until I could no longer top off the fluid. When all was said and done I had added a little over a half a quart of fluid and did not blow any more fuses.

Not sure how I fixed the problem but was wondering if low trim pump fluid would cause the pump motor to blow a fuse. 

Any ideas!

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Is there a FLOAT with a sensor in that oil tank ?  If yes ? That may be the short circuit cause .

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If the fluid also acts to cool the motor, which is the design of a a lot of fluid motors and pumps, then I could see how low fluid could raise the temp and its resistance to the point of blowing a fuse.

Question I have: why were you lowering the drive *before* your ride home?

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On 8/5/2017 at 8:08 PM, cyclops2 said:

Is there a FLOAT with a sensor in that oil tank ?  If yes ? That may be the short circuit cause .

Not that I know of. The VP pump is mounted on the outside transom next to the outdrive and has a small filler tube. No visible tank. 

12 hours ago, Toddavid said:

If the fluid also acts to cool the motor, which is the design of a a lot of fluid motors and pumps, then I could see how low fluid could raise the temp and its resistance to the point of blowing a fuse.

Question I have: why were you lowering the drive *before* your ride home?

Sounds like a logical cause for the fuse blowing.

I tried lowering the drive because I store the boat and trailer at the marina under covered storage. So I always heard the outdrive should be in the down position when stored. It was after I could not troubleshoot the fuse problem at the marina that I decided to tow the boat and trailer home to work on it. Fortunately the outdrive was stuck in the up position for trailering. 

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After successfully cycling the outdrive up and down over a dozen times at home in the driveway without blowing a fuse I launched at the lake and tried to lower the outdrive and the fuse blows again. 

I talked to a mechanic at the nearby marina and he indicated Volvo Penta had problems with their external tilt/trim pump and at one time they were repairing/replacing after expiration of warranty. He said the tilt trim sensor was on a separate circuit and not the fault of the fuse blowing (helm gauge still showed the correct position of the outdrive). I can not see any exposed wires around the external pump so I am confused why the fuse would blow in the water but not on the trailer (after returning home and time to dry out). 

The mechanic said worst case would be new pump as high as 1,300 deer and about 3 hours of labor. But would troubleshoot before repacing pump. I see that Cecil's has the pump for under 900 deer. 

Has anyone else heard of this problem and is the pump the likely cause?

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Does the fuse only blow on the DOWN stroke ?  Your post states on DOWN energizing. I think a + voltage relay contact  may be arcing to the - part of the relay insides.....Swap the UP & DOWN relays. See if it only blows on the UP running now.

Get lucky.  :)

No change ? Then a swapping of DOWN & UP solenoids is in order.

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I'll try that, but it only blows the fuse when in the water. I can't replicate high and dry on the trailer. 

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Had a similar problem with a industrial hydraulic setup. Was a OCASSIONAL    O ring      that stopped a solenoid from shifting quick enough every time. Took us a while to just change all the solenoid O rings. End of same random motor trip outs. 

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On the trailer ???? Are you using the STERN SWITCH ?

Or the in water dash control switch ? Important difference.

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the last one iI fixed was on the remote switch. at the transom. it was activating both the up and down solenoids.Try disconnecting the remote switch to isolate the trouble.

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On the trailer in the driveway I tested both the control handle switch and the remote switch at the aft. Both work perfect. Once in the water I use the down control button and the fuse blows. Must have something to do with water shorting out somewhere. 

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