SG Boater

5.0 in 210 SSI

81 posts in this topic

Tomnjoe, looking at the one in Memphis which you included in your links.  The one in the picture I posted above was pristine, except where he apparently routinely beached it onto a rocky shore.  Bottom really scarred up bad.  But, he was 100% honest and sent pics so I didn't have to travel 7 hours each way to see that.  Question, i know maint. is difficult on this model, but is it even possible to do some things which I consider to be rather routine, ie. change spark plugs, grease the coupler, check steering, install a shift cable.  I haven't climbed around on one yet, but from the pictures, even after removing the divider as you did, still not sure access to these things with the motor in the boat.

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13 minutes ago, SG Boater said:

Tomnjoe, looking at the one in Memphis which you included in your links.  The one in the picture I posted above was pristine, except where he apparently routinely beached it onto a rocky shore.  Bottom really scarred up bad.  But, he was 100% honest and sent pics so I didn't have to travel 7 hours each way to see that.  Question, i know maint. is difficult on this model, but is it even possible to do some things which I consider to be rather routine, ie. change spark plugs, grease the coupler, check steering, install a shift cable.  I haven't climbed around on one yet, but from the pictures, even after removing the divider as you did, still not sure access to these things with the motor in the boat.

It would not be hard to have the bottom fixed, assuming it is just gelcoat gouges. Factor that into the price. 

brick

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1 hour ago, SG Boater said:

Tomnjoe, looking at the one in Memphis which you included in your links.  The one in the picture I posted above was pristine, except where he apparently routinely beached it onto a rocky shore.  Bottom really scarred up bad.  But, he was 100% honest and sent pics so I didn't have to travel 7 hours each way to see that.  Question, i know maint. is difficult on this model, but is it even possible to do some things which I consider to be rather routine, ie. change spark plugs, grease the coupler, check steering, install a shift cable.  I haven't climbed around on one yet, but from the pictures, even after removing the divider as you did, still not sure access to these things with the motor in the boat.

With the side dividers removed changing plugs etc. is definitely easier. To access anything low at the rear of the engine you would have to reach through the holes that are covered by the pieces of vinyl that are snapped in place. The trim pump is behind the port side one but everything else mentioned is behind the starboard side, which is good, trim pump is not in the way.

Nice that the Memphis guy did that, saving you a drive.

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20 minutes ago, tomnjo said:

With the side dividers removed changing plugs etc. is definitely easier. To access anything low at the rear of the engine you would have to reach through the holes that are covered by the pieces of vinyl that are snapped in place. The trim pump is behind the port side one but everything else mentioned is behind the starboard side, which is good, trim pump is not in the way.

Nice that the Memphis guy did that, saving you a drive.

Much easier access on a 220 SSi...

brick

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27 minutes ago, brick said:

Much easier access on a 220 SSi...

brick

For sure.....

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It was AR, still planning on looking at the Memphis one.  Regardless, I was very appreciative.  I do all my maintenance, so the ease of maintenance on the 204 or 220 definitely is in my thoughts, but other issues leading me to the 210.  With respect to the 210 in AR, I know next to nothing about gelcoat repair.  I've only done small chips.  What I've done is grind it down to the fiberglass or very near, and refill.  My assumption is this is how it would have to be done, whether it be a big or small area.   From his beaching on rocks, there are 100's of scratches and gouges, all in the gelcoat, nothing through.  The damaged area is from the keel up 8-10" each side for at least a couple feet along the length. I assumed this was too much of an area to grind away, and way too many to fill individually, and it would cost a fortune.  Brick, how wrong am I?  I know many wouldn't give this a second thought, but the OCD in me would drive me nuts.  (I can see myself in my 19 year old 1830 keel)  

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, SG Boater said:

It was AR, still planning on looking at the Memphis one.  Regardless, I was very appreciative.  I do all my maintenance, so the ease of maintenance on the 204 or 220 definitely is in my thoughts, but other issues leading me to the 210.  With respect to the 210 in AR, I know next to nothing about gelcoat repair.  I've only done small chips.  What I've done is grind it down to the fiberglass or very near, and refill.  My assumption is this is how it would have to be done, whether it be a big or small area.   From his beaching on rocks, there are 100's of scratches and gouges, all in the gelcoat, nothing through.  The damaged area is from the keel up 8-10" each side for at least a couple feet along the length. I assumed this was too much of an area to grind away, and way too many to fill individually, and it would cost a fortune.  Brick, how wrong am I?  I know many wouldn't give this a second thought, but the OCD in me would drive me nuts.  (I can see myself in my 19 year old 1830 keel)  

 

 

 

It is a very simple fix. Any good gelcoat person can do a full repair, and you will not be able to tell it was ever done. Hard to estimate the cost, but take $1K off the price. If everything else on the boat was right, it would not be a deal breaker. 

That said, there is not a single scratch on my hull...

brick

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On that 220 and garage height question, I have a 220 as well and my winter storage garage has a 7 foot door which was a conundrum. My solution was that I ordered the biggest drop hitch off of amazon I could find and for the twice per year that i have to pull it out or put it in, I can sneak the boat in the garage if I wedge the garage door up with a 2x4 and use the lowest setting on the drop hitch.  It clears the door frame by less than an inch but I can confirm a 220 will fit under a 7 foot door with the right method.  I think brick is covering the fanfare for the 220 and I agree completely.  

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10 minutes ago, brick said:

Looks promising...

brick

Nice color......:D

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Saw that 220 but leaning towards the 210 model because:  I assume the 210 has a better skiing wake than 220 (we ski a lot); the narrow ski locker on the 220 means unless I get a tower, wakeboard and kneeboard will be laying around; garage is 32' wide, 18' garage door to one side. The other side of the garage connects to the house via breezeway so access is indirect through the garage door.  Current boat, and I hope the 210, gets backed in at a 45 into the garage adjacent to the breezeway, then just move the tongue over so I still have spaces for two cars straight inside the garage door.  I wouldn't be able to do that with 220.  The extra 1 1/2' or so would make it so the mandoor won't open, if I could squeeze it over.  The 220 gets my vote on several other features though.  I may have to think more about getting some gelcoat work done.  I wish there was someone local.

Tomnjoe, most of our boating is at Lake Kincaid, occasionally go up the Kaskaskia River, and spend a full week at Bull Shoals every year with a long weekend at BS thrown in there as well.  Never go up towards St. Louis to boat, I like smooth water.

 

 

 

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5 minutes ago, SG Boater said:

Saw that 220 but leaning towards the 210 model because:  I assume the 210 has a better skiing wake than 220 (we ski a lot); the narrow ski locker on the 220 means unless I get a tower, wakeboard and kneeboard will be laying around; garage is 32' wide, 18' garage door to one side. The other side of the garage connects to the house via breezeway so access is indirect through the garage door.  Current boat, and I hope the 210, gets backed in at a 45 into the garage adjacent to the breezeway, then just move the tongue over so I still have spaces for two cars straight inside the garage door.  I wouldn't be able to do that with 220.  The extra 1 1/2' or so would make it so the mandoor won't open, if I could squeeze it over.  The 220 gets my vote on several other features though.  I may have to think more about getting some gelcoat work done.  I wish there was someone local.

Tomnjoe, most of our boating is at Lake Kincaid, occasionally go up the Kaskaskia River, and spend a full week at Bull Shoals every year with a long weekend at BS thrown in there as well.  Never go up towards St. Louis to boat, I like smooth water.

 

 

 

We occasionally do Lake Kinkaid, my brother goes down there alot with my old Crownline. We do the Kaskaskia quite often. I assume you put in on the MO side and lock through. We usually trailer down to the ramp at Baldwin by the 154 bridge and run down to Evansville where we anchor out and swim/ BBQ.

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23 minutes ago, SG Boater said:

Saw that 220 but leaning towards the 210 model because:  I assume the 210 has a better skiing wake than 220 (we ski a lot); the narrow ski locker on the 220 means unless I get a tower, wakeboard and kneeboard will be laying around; garage is 32' wide, 18' garage door to one side. The other side of the garage connects to the house via breezeway so access is indirect through the garage door.  Current boat, and I hope the 210, gets backed in at a 45 into the garage adjacent to the breezeway, then just move the tongue over so I still have spaces for two cars straight inside the garage door.  I wouldn't be able to do that with 220.  The extra 1 1/2' or so would make it so the mandoor won't open, if I could squeeze it over.  The 220 gets my vote on several other features though.  I may have to think more about getting some gelcoat work done.  I wish there was someone local.

Tomnjoe, most of our boating is at Lake Kincaid, occasionally go up the Kaskaskia River, and spend a full week at Bull Shoals every year with a long weekend at BS thrown in there as well.  Never go up towards St. Louis to boat, I like smooth water.

 

 

 

Sounds like you have it pretty well thought out. But I doubt you can move the trailer tongue by hand on a tandem axle trailer. 

For measuring purposes, my boat tapes out at 26 feet, 7 inches, trailer tongue to stern. 

brick

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14 minutes ago, brick said:

Sounds like you have it pretty well thought out. But I doubt you can move the trailer tongue by hand on a tandem axle trailer. 

For measuring purposes, my boat tapes out at 26 feet, 7 inches, trailer tongue to stern. 

brick

Moving from a single axle to a dual axle with my 220, I can say it is a pain that your inability to make adjustments by hand once off the hitch is a game changer for the worse.  No more angle it here or there or correct a marginal back in job.  

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Gotta agree with the last two posts, SG. Maybe if you go to the gym alot, and I mean, alot!!  :D

 

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Actually, no ramp on MO side near me that you can put a runabout in at so we put in at the Corps of Eng. ramp at the lock to the Kaskaskia.  I'm lucky if I pass more than 5 or 6 boats between the lock and Evansville at milemarker 11, even on a holiday weekend.  We usually run up to New Athens, and though not bad, the boat traffic is a 100 times worse north of Evansville than it is miles 0-11.  I actually found several ideas to move a tandem trailer:  drop the tongue low enough the rear axle lifts, put the back set of wheels on plastic, get those little wheel dolly's and put under one set of wheels, and of course the motorized dollys.  I was surprised to find lots of discussion on the topic.  They say all the above works, I've not tried any of them.  Just hoping at this point.

 

26.7 fits by 2', but assuming i could get it over there, i'm allowing a little wiggle room in the back to maneuver it is position,and then wouldn't be able to open man door more than about 1/2 way.  Lots of thoughts going through my mind.  

 

 

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40 minutes ago, SG Boater said:

Actually, no ramp on MO side near me that you can put a runabout in at so we put in at the Corps of Eng. ramp at the lock to the Kaskaskia.  I'm lucky if I pass more than 5 or 6 boats between the lock and Evansville at milemarker 11, even on a holiday weekend.  We usually run up to New Athens, and though not bad, the boat traffic is a 100 times worse north of Evansville than it is miles 0-11.  I actually found several ideas to move a tandem trailer:  drop the tongue low enough the rear axle lifts, put the back set of wheels on plastic, get those little wheel dolly's and put under one set of wheels, and of course the motorized dollys.  I was surprised to find lots of discussion on the topic.  They say all the above works, I've not tried any of them.  Just hoping at this point.

 

26.7 fits by 2', but assuming i could get it over there, i'm allowing a little wiggle room in the back to maneuver it is position,and then wouldn't be able to open man door more than about 1/2 way.  Lots of thoughts going through my mind.  

 

 

I thought there was a ramp in the little harbor at SG.....  Do you ferry across the Mississippi?

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I go down and cross the Chester bridge.  When the river is down, pretty sharp angle getting off/on the ferry so might drag.  We used to have a harbor/marina in Ste. Genevieve.  Back then the Kaskaskia was packed on the lower end, from mile marker 11 to the lock and up the Mississippi to Ste. Gen.  But they built the marina perpendicular to the river on the lower side of miles of fields that flood nearly every year.  Guess where all that washed away top soil goes.  20 years ago the marina was 20' deep.  Last time I put in was early 2000's and I churned up mud.  Now it's nothing more than a creek.  shame.

 

I may not be able to maneuver any tandem trailer like I'm thinking. But I read all those guys saying they did it on the internet, so it has to be true, right?  

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I think a set of go jacks would offer you the most maneuverability.  They're kind of pricey though, and you'd probably need 4.  

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