SG Boater

5.0 in 210 SSI

81 posts in this topic

With my previous Chaparral, I tried the auto caster style wheels meant for moving cars around by hand under the  trailer wheels and that darn heavy chap immediately crushed them them down and destroyed them the second the jack slowly lowered.  They were heavy duty things but it was a single axle trailer and apparently too much weight concentrated among two points.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No way you will move the trailer tongue sideways without some type of mechanical advantage. 

brick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the above tricks fail or prove to be too much of a pain, which they probably will, I believe I could probably back it into place using my garden tractor, ie. back in with the truck at an angle, use a floor jack to lower the tongue onto the garden tractor and use it to pivot the tongue over.  Wouldn't be too bad, the tractor is right there in that garage anyhow.  Last resort is to simply back in straight and lose one car space but I'll exhaust the other options first.  I'm just spoiled now since I've been able to fit the single axle trailer and two vehicles in there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
57 minutes ago, SG Boater said:

If the above tricks fail or prove to be too much of a pain, which they probably will, I believe I could probably back it into place using my garden tractor, ie. back in with the truck at an angle, use a floor jack to lower the tongue onto the garden tractor and use it to pivot the tongue over.  Wouldn't be too bad, the tractor is right there in that garage anyhow.  Last resort is to simply back in straight and lose one car space but I'll exhaust the other options first.  I'm just spoiled now since I've been able to fit the single axle trailer and two vehicles in there.

You will find a way, and keeping a boat inside is the best way to store it. 

brick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if your tongue jack is the kind with a wheel you can move it somewhat.  Ive had the wheel on all three boats ive owned the largest being 7k dry in weight.  You are not moving these things feet or doing a 360, no way.  on a boat of that size I would imagine you might get it a few feet if needed, bigger boats you can usually rock it a few inches. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

True soldier. I can move mine maybe a foot either way when I hook it up, but have to hold it in place, otherwise is springs back to the original spot. Has been the same with my last two boats, similar trailers and boat sizes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
42 minutes ago, tomnjo said:

True soldier. I can move mine maybe a foot either way when I hook it up, but have to hold it in place, otherwise is springs back to the original spot. Has been the same with my last two boats, similar trailers and boat sizes.

now with 2-3 guys I have been able to swing a boat quite a distance.  But always be careful with something weighing a few thousand pounds or more, once it gets rolling you aint stopping it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Following one of Brick's comments, I'm getting an estimate to repair the scuffs/damages on the keel of the one I posted a pic of.  Seller said he'd knock it off asking price if it was reasonable.  I've never had gelcoat repairs done so no idea what the cost will be.  The attached pic is about a 1' of the bottom. Best I can tell the scuffs/gouges extend about 4', both sides about from the keel guard  to about 8" up.  Good news is seller is original owner and he had dealer install keel guard prior to him getting so there shouldn't be any hidden damage (unless he really hit something hard), and the keel guard took the brunt of the damage.  From what i can tell, only damage is to the flat surface before it gets to the first chine which I assume would make repairs eaiser.  I don't know if they extend past the bunk so don't know if have to take off the trailer.  Anyone care to offer up an estimate?

 

 

08 chap right 1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think $600 to $700.  Hard to tell from the picture, but it looks minor. Any competent gelcoat guy can fix that easily, with no signs of repair. Be sure to check the rest of the boat, too  

brick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it's near or under a thousand, pretty sure he'd do it.  I don't know if he'd knock off more than that to satisfy my OCD.  I'm sure there are buyers out there that wouldn't even worry about it.  But never had a scratched up boat and don't want to start now.  Trying to get him to give a straight on pic of the keel where the keel guard ends.  If it's clean there, I'll be satisfied it's minimal and easily fixed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like just some gelcoat is gone. No too bad. I guess this guy was a river boater but didn't have any sandy beaches. His add states that the carpet was never used so that's a good thing. No river mud stains. That's why I have the vinyl floor now. This weekend is going to be summer like. Are you going to be out?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was out last week and surprisingly the water was nice.  Skiing was awesome with no other boats.  Wedding this weekend so doubtful.  The owner said most of his boating was done at Lake Ouachita in North Central AR.  I've never been there but want to some day.  Supposed to be one of the prettiest and clearest lakes in the US, water visibility 30-40'.  Looks like I'd want to stay away from the shores though.  I would assume it's not going to be hard to fix.  But that doesn't necessarily mean it won't be expensive.  I'll find out though when the shop calls with an estimate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If that lake has shores like Table Rock, I get it. There is no place to beach a boat there, rocks and gravel. I know Kinkaid is the same. I beach ours on Alton Pool all of the time. The beaches are sand above the surface but the sand becomes soft silty mud below the surface where the hull is in contact. My hull gets stained, which I clean off, but not scratched.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I only got one estimate, but from all I've heard, he's good.  He admitted it's very hard to tell from the pictures, but said I should be prepared for $2K to make it look like new.  He also had concern of the torn loose keel guard.  Could be from delamination, or a hard hit?  Almost impossible to tell since you can't see under it, and can't inspect from inside the boat.  Doesn't look like a hard hit, but ???  Regardless, $2K is too big a ticket.  Time to move on.  Talking to the one in TN that Tomnjoe posted the link to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Crap, I had to go back and read all the posts. The scratched one was in Little Rock, right? I was thinking it was the Memphis on the whole time. I think that one looks pretty good. I'm guessing it's a 3 to 3 1/2 drive from you depending on what part of town it's in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just looked at the contact info. It's by Kentucky lake just east of Paris Tn. Just no decent direct way to get there from your location.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No good way to get there, but 3 1/2 hours is better than the 7 hours to AR (It was actually in Fort Smith AR, right on the OK border.)  My initial reservations on this one were no tarps and I don't believe the  bench seat is open all the way across on an '05 like it is on the earlier or later model years to allow for storing ski's there.  But I can get tarps/covers and can modify the seat easy enough if I need to.  Color isn't too bad either.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure about the bench but with the center cushion that is removable, it stands to reason there is a a step there. I didn't realize that the 220 has a narrower ski locker. I think mine is about 22 inches wide. Storage goes all the way up under the bow, I have lost things up there. You can slide skis way forward and keep the wakeboards in the back. TBH, storing skis under my bench would be a challenge. The opening is slightly curved but I think one pair and one slalom would fit OK. I has no snaps visible, so yeah no covers. I keep a full on mine anyway but it is stored outside. It does have pull up cleats which they don't all have.

Just found this. At 36 seconds on this video it shows whats under the bench seat removable center cushion. Looks like it's also removable......

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will measure the ski locker opening on my 220 tonight. It does extend up to the bow, but it is not very wide.  We store two sets of tandem skis, paddle, ski ropes and other stuff. But too narrow for a 144 size wakeboard. Rear "L" seat is too short for skis. I have inner tube, jump start box and compressed air tank under port side rear seat.  Tower racks solved our storage issue. 

brick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"You can slide skis way forward and keep the wakeboards in the back."  This solves my dilemma, the fact that a wakeboard and skis could be stored in there.  '07 and newer is like your picture, that white "door" or step flips up.  The only pic i've been able to find of '05 still has the seat, or pad, in place, but it appears it's carpeted underneath so not sure if it flips up to provide full width access.  If not I could modify, but based upon what you said, won't need to.  "TBH, storing skis under my bench would be a challenge".  That surprises me.  I  store 3 tournament slaloms with full double boots and my spare prop under the seat in my 1830.  Boots are too tall to even fit in my ski locker so good thing.  My short top, the one that connects to the windshield, is in there too (only used once in 14 years since have a bimini).  If I took that out could get a 4th slalom in there.  Down side is everyone has to get up every time we switch skis.  But anyhow, problem solved.  thx.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just got back from my boat, took some measurements. I haven't had any skis for awhile so I wasn't sure of the length and the bench seat has a slight curve to it, but it turns out, not as much as I thought. Here's what I have.....

Boat length on trailer.....26 ft. 2 inches.

Height at windshield with jack cranked all the way down.....76 inches.

Bench seat.....Opening is 62"x8.5" in the middle to 7.5" at the outside edges. Inside it is 72"x12" in the middle and 11" at the outside edges. It is 13" deep throughout.

Ski locker.....The opening is 20.5" wide by 32.5 inches long. Inside under the lip of the opening it is 29 inches wide and 12 inches deep in the middle and 10 inches deep along the edges. I extended my tape measure forward past all of my stuff stored inside and it was greater than 8 ft. long. There is a wood support somewhere along the top under the bow walkthrough area that takes away from the depth at that point. Skis will slide under it with no problem, though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My current ski locker now isn't much smaller, 17x32 opening, about 25" wide below the lip.  But only 9" deep at the center, so it's not deep enough to angle the slaloms or wakeboard into it without the boots getting caught at the front.  Both slalom and wakeboard boots are 10" tall.  I will miss my underseat storage though, 71x9.5" opening, 74x15 inside.  Sounds like the ski locker should work though.  This a.m. while doing some research I came across your thread where you put the access doors in the consoles.  One of the pics came up on google, but they're deleted from this site.  How much room is actually in those consoles?  They don't look that deep.  thx.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now