Ray ray

chaparral 2335
Boat engine problem

23 posts in this topic

New to the forum and new to boating . So I purchased my first boat back in April, we bought the boat and didn't get to use it until middle of July, first time we went out We were having trouble getting the boat on plane and getting past 3800 rpms!        After finally getting on plane was cruising about 30mph than a spark plug got pushed out of the shell... end up getting towed on our first time on the water. I put all new plugs in it, changed oil and even put new trim limit and gauge senders (old ones were not working) the second time we tried going in the water found out my engine block was cracked....after doing some research I decided to give JB weld a try .. bad decision lol, tried it again and water was just shooting out of the crack.       So decided to give my mig welder a try since it doesnt get too hot like stick and wouldn't afect the cast too much and it worked great. 

Finally back on the water boat was doing ok not leaking at all bit was still having a hard time getting on plane but it would eventually do it we went out on it like that a few times but last time we went out  it got to the point where it just wouldn't plane out at all. 

changed fuel pump, checked fuel pressure just cant figure out what the problem is..oh and after messing with the engine today came to find out It does not have the 5.7 like I was told I got the numbers from the back of the block and and did some research and it is a 5.0. So would that be the reason? Does the 5.0 dont have enough power?

Any advice would be great amd sorry for the long description!

 

 

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You welded the crack in the block or the riser? If the block was cracked on visible face, odds are there are internal cracks as well. Compression test on each cylinder?

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Welded it on the block, the oil seemed  fine so I figured it was a creck on the outher wall. No haven't  done compression test yet that was my next step until I found out it is a 5.0 engine 

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cracked block you are done, you got bad seals now, and its just a matter of time until that engine grenades.  Time to do a compression check, but at this point if there is a crack in the actual block I wouldn't waste time just start looking for a new block, rebuilt will be fine.

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A look at each spark plug  for different colors of the new plug will tell you which cylinders are bad. if any......a check of the oil will tell you if the water is mixing in it. Also if it is being sucked out by VACUUM in the intake manifold gaskets..................Do ALL the testing required to see if you are dealing with...............REPAIORABLE problems..........Head gasket--intake manifold gasket----exhaust manifold to the water cooled risers-------------& all other gaskets

 

You might get to be super lucky.    Have the plugs pulled & a mini camera put into each cylinder to check the wall surfaces,,      A GREAT mechanic will do all those . Plus put a VACUUM gauge on the intake manifold to see if a valve is sticking or burned------------------TEST the crap out of it before tossing a repairable engine.

There are plenty of HORROR stories of replacing a engine. Only to get a WORSE one with different problems.............Follow acceptable trouble shooting procedures.............then get into ignition of carb / F I  parts. If needed.

A new mistress is great the first time. A old one is always great.  :)

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Hey, it's an easy upgrade to a 5.7! I replaced mine last year on my 2135.  I went with same as I had, but I had a 5.7 to begin with.  I thought about going with a high hp 5.7, but in the end I wanted it reliable, so stuck with the 260 hp motor.  It pulls like a beast, and tops out around 48mph.

I would think a 5.0 may do ok, but I'm sure it was the smallest motor option for that boat.  Do you have dual props?

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6 hours ago, Duane2135 said:

Hey, it's an easy upgrade to a 5.7! I replaced mine last year on my 2135.  I went with same as I had, but I had a 5.7 to begin with.  I thought about going with a high hp 5.7, but in the end I wanted it reliable, so stuck with the 260 hp motor.  It pulls like a beast, and tops out around 48mph.

I would think a 5.0 may do ok, but I'm sure it was the smallest motor option for that boat.  Do you have dual props?

Thank you

I'm thinking this boat had a 5.7 at some point. The carb cover is for a 5.7 i guess I'll start looking for a new engine.. 

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LKQ supplied me with a reman long block at under 2k for cam'd and setup for marine application. No exchange needed on Marine engines.

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6 hours ago, Duane2135 said:

LKQ supplied me with a reman long block at under 2k for cam'd and setup for marine application. No exchange needed on Marine engines.

With the cost of a reman being so low, if he truly has a cracked block it just makes sense to get the reman, your going to have just as much money and time if not more fixing the old one, if your going to spend the money my as well upgrade the engine.

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13 hours ago, Ray ray said:

Thank you

I'm thinking this boat had a 5.7 at some point. The carb cover is for a 5.7 i guess I'll start looking for a new engine.. 

More likely someone swapped out the carb cover to trick the next owner...

brick

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After looking around I found a complete 5.7 mercruiser that someone is selling for a really good price on cl  says he did a full tune up, new p/s pump and cooler new alternator and compression of 150 on all cylinders .

Anything I should be worried about??

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How well will it run after you fully install it in the boat ? What do you do if it has a problem ?

I helped buy a used motor. The owner had it running in his boat perfectly. Said he wanted put in a bigger hp engine We bought it & it ran great

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6 hours ago, Ray ray said:

After looking around I found a complete 5.7 mercruiser that someone is selling for a really good price on cl  says he did a full tune up, new p/s pump and cooler new alternator and compression of 150 on all cylinders .

Anything I should be worried about??

If I were you, I would do a compression check, leak down test, and hear it run. Also, check the manifolds/risers.

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On ‎9‎/‎14‎/‎2017 at 10:26 PM, drewm3i said:

If I were you, I would do a compression check, leak down test, and hear it run. Also, check the manifolds/risers.

yup compression test and a leak down test if necessary.

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Went to looka at the engine over the weekend did a compression test 6 cilinders had good compression of 150 the other two were 100 and 115 so that was a deal breaker 

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