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Wingnut

Prestone Marine RV Antifreeze

9 posts in this topic

I don't know if it's a regional thing or not, but this season I have had a problem locating Prestone Marine/RV non-toxic antifreeze and have been regulated to trying Stabil brand for the first time. Prestone has inhibitors to protect engine internals during long term lay-up, and it's formulation has always kept the raw water pump impellers soft and supple for multi seasonal use. The stuff just seems to have disappeared and the Stabil is available and priced right so the experiment begins.  W

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yup, same here.  I ran 4 gallons of Stabil brand and 1 leftover gallon of Prestone I had through the engine yesterday.  I plan to replace my impeller in the Spring so we'll see if it stays soft or gets hardened.

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14 minutes ago, Wingnut said:

I don't know if it's a regional thing or not, but this season I have had a problem locating Prestone Marine/RV non-toxic antifreeze and have been regulated to trying Stabil brand for the first time. Prestone has inhibitors to protect engine internals during long term lay-up, and it's formulation has always kept the raw water pump impellers soft and supple for multi seasonal use. The stuff just seems to have disappeared and the Stabil is available and priced right so the experiment begins.  W

I am a little confused. 

The need for Marine AF to me seams a little pointless. Most if not all AF has some form of lubricant for the other water pump like every car and truck has.  Its not a self priming pump so its  metal blades not an impeller Also to help stop rust from building up. Remember too, that the raw water pump is pumping sea water into the heat exchanger. No AF there...

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38 minutes ago, Iggy said:

I am a little confused. 

The need for Marine AF to me seams a little pointless. Most if not all AF has some form of lubricant for the other water pump like every car and truck has.  Its not a self priming pump so its  metal blades not an impeller Also to help stop rust from building up. Remember too, that the raw water pump is pumping sea water into the heat exchanger. No AF there...

I think your assuming a Closed system and for that , you are correct. Wingnut may have an Open seawater cooled engine.

I have an open system and have always used the walmart bargan brand poured directly into the block and risers. I also always remove the impeller from the pump so that it does not sit for six months all bent over.

 

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Wingnut and I both have closed cooling systems.  The recommendation is to pump anti-freeze into the seawater cooling loop which includes the pump, heat exchanger, cool fuel module, oil cooler and exhaust manifolds.  This is to prevent freeze damage and rust protection.

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3 minutes ago, MonkeySeaII said:

Wingnut and I both have closed cooling systems.  The recommendation is to pump anti-freeze into the seawater cooling loop which includes the pump, heat exchanger, cool fuel module, oil cooler and exhaust manifolds.  This is to prevent freeze damage and rust protection.

yup  my thoughts as well.  Anything that touches water and AF can be circulated through, its cheap insurance.  Draining IMO isn't enough.  Even in an open loop like what I have I run 4-5 gallons at 15-20 bucks and its done in 10 mins,  very very cheap insurance.

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2 hours ago, Chap243 said:

I think your assuming a Closed system and for that , you are correct. Wingnut may have an Open seawater cooled engine.

I have an open system and have always used the walmart bargan brand poured directly into the block and risers. I also always remove the impeller from the pump so that it does not sit for six months all bent over.

 

Oh, I did not realize that your talking about the winter months. I have twin engines and all I can say that I replace them every 2 years for the past 6 years with no problems. I don't really see a need of removing it over the winter. It only stays in over one winter and in the spring the new one goes in.  

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Coating the internals of the raw water side has always made sense to me. Jacketed cast iron exhaust manifolds are not cheap, and in over 50 years of boating, I have never needed to replace any of mine, but I have replaced a bunch on the drain and go guys. At least Merc has gone with stainless risers with dry joints now which helps a ton. As far as freeze protection goes, as others have said, cheap insurance. For me, the hardest thing I find to drain completely dry is the power steering cooler. Of course, the potable water system, sink drains, and toilet get a splash also.  W

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