wolfgang

Fresh water pump not turing off automatically

12 posts in this topic


I have a 2007 Chaparral Signature cruiser. The original freshwater pump has been having low water pressure. It now does not turn off automatically; I have to manually turn of the pressure switch.
Since this pump is 10 years old, would it be better to just replace it with a new one than trouble shoot it?
If replacement is the route, do I have to get the exact same OEM pump? Can I upgrade the pump to a higher one?
It is easy to replace the pump?

Appreciate your thoughts.

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I have replaced the fresh water pump twice over the years. The last time I went with a different manufacturers pump. Very easy to change out. Your pump is probably worn out and just needs to be replaced. Make sure the screen between water tank and pump is clean, if it is clogged it will cause the type of problem you are seeing.

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Before you buy a new pump, make sure the strainer/filter bowl is not clogged. I suggest removing it and giving it a good gentle cleaning, then reinstalling and see if it resolves the matter.

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10 minutes ago, Iggy said:

Just change it..........

But if you do, replace (preferred, given how cheap it is), or at least clean, the strainer!  

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If the pump continues to cycle you may have a leak that is preventing it from building pressure. 

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4 hours ago, Chap243 said:

Before you buy a new pump, make sure the strainer/filter bowl is not clogged. I suggest removing it and giving it a good gentle cleaning, then reinstalling and see if it resolves the matter.

Did that already.  But while there does not appear to be a leak; preventing pressure from building up, I need to check again the next time I am at the boat.

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Looks like I will be replacing the pump.  I remember reading some where that the power of the pump should be proportional to the number of faucet out lets. My boat has 4, 2 sinks, 1 shower in the head and 1 shower on the swim platform.  The pump that came with the boat is rated 3 GPH. 

Should I upgrade it to 4 GPH ?   I don't want to apply to high a pressure than the fixtures are built for.  

Is it safe to assume 3 or 4 GPH should not make any difference ?

 

Thanks

Mike

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4 hours ago, sburke91 said:

But if you do, replace (preferred, given how cheap it is), or at least clean, the strainer!  

YEP!

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4 hours ago, wolfgang said:

Looks like I will be replacing the pump.  I remember reading some where that the power of the pump should be proportional to the number of faucet out lets. My boat has 4, 2 sinks, 1 shower in the head and 1 shower on the swim platform.  The pump that came with the boat is rated 3 GPH. 

Should I upgrade it to 4 GPH ?   I don't want to apply to high a pressure than the fixtures are built for.  

Is it safe to assume 3 or 4 GPH should not make any difference ?

 

Thanks

Mike

You can go to 4 with no problem.  I was having problems with the pump that came in the boat which I believe was a Jabsco, 2 pumps and 2 leaks. I switch to a Surflo and that was several years ago and have not had any problems with that one. 

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On ‎10‎/‎9‎/‎2017 at 0:17 PM, wolfgang said:

Looks like I will be replacing the pump.  I remember reading some where that the power of the pump should be proportional to the number of faucet out lets. My boat has 4, 2 sinks, 1 shower in the head and 1 shower on the swim platform.  The pump that came with the boat is rated 3 GPH. 

Should I upgrade it to 4 GPH ?   I don't want to apply to high a pressure than the fixtures are built for.  

Is it safe to assume 3 or 4 GPH should not make any difference ?

 

Thanks

Mike

Most, if not all Freshwater pumps will have a pressure switch that prevents excessive pressure.  Flow rate doesn't damage anything, it's too much pressure(usually from a malfunctioning pressure switch).

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After I installed a new pump I tore the old one apart ,located the manufacture and ordered the rebuild kit for $35.00 bucks. Comes with a new pressure switch diaphragm. The rubber in the esentric and valves deteriorated from chlorine and alcohol antifreeze with in 4 years. 

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