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DarkMantle

Bravo 3 shift delay after repairs

13 posts in this topic

So I was blowing drive grease into my bilge. Turns out I had a failed drive shaft seal and smoked some bearings as a result as well. Had the boat in the shop for a very expensive repair that involved a transom reseal with a whole bellows set and gimbal bearing, as well as the drive being repaired.  They also replaced my lower shift cable. I experienced no problems prior to this service. Now, I have a 5 second delay when shifting into forward gear. Is this a cable screw up?  Seems to get worse when I'm in and out of gear a lot such as with docking.  

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So I was blowing drive grease into my bilge. Turns out I had a failed drive shaft seal and smoked some bearings as a result as well

 

using grease instead of the hi performance synthetic will do that,

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31 minutes ago, Bt Doctur said:

So I was blowing drive grease into my bilge. Turns out I had a failed drive shaft seal and smoked some bearings as a result as well

 

using grease instead of the hi performance synthetic will do that,

I was being generic.  The proper Quicksilver drive lube is being used.  It looks like an Elf may have been slaughtered given the amount of green spray all over the compartment. 

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A 5 second delay ?  Sound like something has been over packed or wrong thickness / viscosity lubricant used in something.  I had those delays in industrial repairs.

A not tightened locknut on a shift cable will allow the cable sheath  to move FIRST. Then slowly slide back to a relaxed position........... I did that one time with a slightly sticky shift cable.  Actually any sheathed cable should be able to do that. Very tight bends make it worse. Loose locking nut.

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If the delay is both going into forward and reverse, the adjustment is not the issue as putting more forward travel into the shift moment, takes away an equal amount from the reverse moment. My hope is that they kinked the new shift cable upon installation and will just need to replace it. If they screwed up the stack measurement when they assembled the cone clutch/input shaft bearing carrier, then it is time to make sure that your chose the right shop. This is a critical dimension which requires installing and removing shims of various thicknesses. It's not rocket science, but it can be tedious. At times, shops will attempt to use the old shim stack with the new bearing carrier, bearings, and cone clutches. I would ask if they replaced the cone clutches or reused the old ones too. If they put the wrong lube in the thing, then it is definitely time to find a new shop for sure. W

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I think it's a clutch issue.  Shop hasn't had a chance to look at it yet but I took it out yesterday to do some checks. On a cold drive it shifts forward pretty  much   instantly.  Once it warms up there's at least a 5 second delay before engagement.  I can literally feel it slide into gear. When I go from neutral, by that I mean I have to press the thumb button and move it forward into gear, that's when there is the 5 second delay. Once in gear, if I come back to idle but not all the way into neutral, there is no slipping upon throttle advancement. I don't think it's a cable issue. 

As per the original work order, the BEARING ASSEMBLY, Tapered Roller (#31-8M0104358) was replaced. The bearings were burned and scored, likely from the oil blowing by. This assembly sits at the top of the drive right behind the drive shaft yoke, so there was no disassembly of the clutch stack, as far as I know. I'm thinking the clutch must've been on its way out already.   Other than that, I don't know what else it would be. 

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5 minutes ago, cyclops2 said:

Does it do almost the same thing N to R or R to N ? When cold & hot ?

There is no issue going into reverse hot, or cold. 

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If the bearing set cooked, it will circulate a shovel load of crap throughout the gear case which cold effect the clutches and lower gear case bearing and gear set. It sounds like they did not do an entire tear down, cleaning, and inspection. Some of the symptoms you are describing can also be caused by a bent shifter fork, as the Bravo's do not like to be shifted without the engine running. Dealers will actually remove the shift cable before sending a boat to a boat show so that the 7 year old "Captains" do not damage the drive on a brand new boat. At the very least, after your issue is initially resolved, I'd be draining the oil every 10 hours and running it through cheese cloth to look for glitter. If it's clean, then maybe you got lucky. If not then there is additional damage.  W

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7 minutes ago, Wingnut said:

If the bearing set cooked, it will circulate a shovel load of crap throughout the gear case which cold effect the clutches and lower gear case bearing and gear set. It sounds like they did not do an entire tear down, cleaning, and inspection. Some of the symptoms you are describing can also be caused by a bent shifter fork, as the Bravo's do not like to be shifted without the engine running. Dealers will actually remove the shift cable before sending a boat to a boat show so that the 7 year old "Captains" do not damage the drive on a brand new boat. At the very least, after your issue is initially resolved, I'd be draining the oil every 10 hours and running it through cheese cloth to look for glitter. If it's clean, then maybe you got lucky. If not then there is additional damage.  W

Would something like a bent shifter work not effect the shift immediately and all the time?  This is only happening once it's warmed up, and I didn't notice the problem until after the second time out after the repair. 

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Had for me to say as I have only replaced one but know by talking with others that they can be an issue. Easy enough for the shop to inspect though.  W

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