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Oil Change-The Extractor

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I decided to start changing my own oil so I bought the West Marine Extractor.

First question: When checking the dipstick, the oil level was between the full and add marks. How low is the oil...1/2qrt....1 qrt? I always thought it was 1/2qrt.

Second question: Where does the dipstick end? Top, middle or bottom of the oil pan. When I assembled the extractor, the extension line was the same length as the dipstick. I had expected the extension line to be longer than the dipstick.  When I vac'd the oil, it only pulled out 4qrts [including the filter]. I was expecting 5qrts. BTW, the engine was hot.

So, I took a 1qrt bottle and filled the oil filter and poured the remaining into the engine. Then poured the 4qrt jug in. Waited a few minutes and checked the dip stick before adding part of the second 1qrt bottle. The dipstick showed an overfill [not huge]. I didn't add anymore. Yesterday, I put the muffs on and ran the engine and then let it sit. Checked the level and it looks good. But I still wonder how much old oil is still in there. I realize that some will remain.

Anybody else use the extractor?

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Do to the nature of the beast, One never gets all the old oil out. Its always been that way, like it or not. Sucking it out usually leaves a quart or less in the pan. 

I was always under the impression that the fill mark meant add a quart. 

 

.

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On my big block the vac extraction is even less effective. I can get out up to 7 quarts out of 9 quarts (8.5 L) total.

One thing you can try to do is to level the boat/engine on trailer as much as possible, or tilt it toward the end of a dipstick tube if you know where it ends up inside the block. I don't know the answer to this question even for my engine. Would like to know it as well.

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simply connect it to the top of the dipstick tube , the dipstick tube goes to the bottom of the oil pan

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No matter how one connects the extractor some/much of the old oil is not extracted. The extractor hose might get a bit farther/lower than the dipstick tube, therefore be more effective. The question is how to level a boat/engine to get most of the old oil out.

@SST

I would think that the extractor tube would/should be longer than a dipstick. The dipstick does not have to go to the bottom of the engin pan to show the top of the oil level. You might want to rig a longer tube and see how far it goes inside the dipstick tube.

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Mine's a Volvo, but I have never been able to get all of mine out and I have tried all methods.  I would love to have a bottom drain hose. 

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The boat is sitting on the trailer and is slightly bow low. I guess my next adventure with this is get a longer piece of plastic hose and hook it up and see if there is a difference.

I had considered just pulling the plug but its a tight fit to get underneath. Not enough clearance to get both hands underneath. Impossible to unscrew the plug and hold onto it while holding the funnel in place so it doesn't spill into the compartment. Which is what I think everybody has done in the past. 150 degree oil makes it even more enjoyable.

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2 minutes ago, Bt Doctur said:

If you have a marine dipstick tube it goes to the very bottom of the oil pan

Twice you have said the dipstick TUBE goes to the bottom of the pan. But how about the STICK? Does the stick go to the bottom of the pan? 

If the stick is the same length as the tube, then there isn't much else I can do.

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The stick does not go to the bottom of the pan. The tube does so as you can see the threaded fitting on top of the tube, you can hook an extractor right to the top like most marine shops use. The Mityvac MV7400 extractor hoses are more than long enough to reach the bottom of any pan I have ever used it on. Might want to return your west marine one. Mityvac rules.

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I run mine and let it sit for 20 min hook up the pump and get 95% out even with a drain plug you truly never get all the oil out .If you don't give the oil time to drain back into the pan you get less out 

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No problem with oil draining back into the pan. By the time I shut the engine off, got it back on the trailer, get it back in the driveway, drag out and assemble the extractor.....about 1 hour.

Now knowing that the stick is shorter than the tube, I think all I'll do is look for a plastic tube and cut a longer length that will reach all the way into the pan. Once that happens, I'm fairly certain the West Marine extractor will work fine.  The problem, I think, is that with the extension hose short, and if you lose the vacuum, there is no way to retrieve the rest of the oil because it isn't being reached. I think the longer extension will take care of it.

Thanks for the help.

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I connect mine to the garden hose attachment on the dipstick. Do several boats for friends. Have always got to within less than 1/2 quart of posted capacity, sometimes posted capacity. I am confident I am getting most oil out on all boats serviced.

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I connect to the hose attachment on the dipstick tube.

Then i take one of the attachments and put it down the tube, it pretty much goes to the bottom.

There is always some residual oil you never get.

 I change twice a year year regardless of hours and dont worry about residual oil

 

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I use a vacuum  pump and after I take the filter off I stick the vacuum tube down the filter assembly and usually get almost another quart out. I get out almost all of it. 

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I would be concerned about the tube breaking off in the oil filter galley or getting stuck either way the engine is getting torn down .I have never had a problem using the dipstick tube which goes to the bottom of the pan that is what it was designed for 

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I change oil and filter just before winter lay up. After shutting off the warmed up engine, I use a vacuum pump and a 1/4 inch dia. plastic tube that is longer than the dipstick. I place it down the dipstick tube until it just bottoms out inside of the oil pan. The tubing connections are fitted to a glass jar that holds about a quart. As it nearly fills, I switch to another jar. Repeat until no more oil is being drawn out. Once I pulled the drain plug -after doing this- just to see what was left, and found about a cup of oil. Not too bad when compared to 4 qts. that my 4.3 holds.

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21 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

Any oil change is far better than none.

Perfection is not needed.

+1 on this.

Old engine oil remaining in the block upset a buddy of mine so much that after sucking out the old, he'd add 3 quarts of new oil, let it mix, then suck that out before adding the new oil.

We're used to letting that last drop drain from a vehicle's oil pan. Not so on boats. 

What do you think a dealership does?

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32 minutes ago, e-Xtreme said:

+1 on this.

Old engine oil remaining in the block upset a buddy of mine so much that after sucking out the old, he'd add 3 quarts of new oil, let it mix, then suck that out before adding the new oil.

We're used to letting that last drop drain from a vehicle's oil pan. Not so on boats. 

What do you think a dealership does?

Even on cars you probably have a few cups if not more hung up somewhere or another. Think about the quick lube places, engine running hot pulled in drain oil,  really think its all coming out.

 

Oil changes are most over thought item in the engine arena. If you think about how many engines really do blow up internally, I cant think of any ive had or anybody I have known. The oil change gimic was created for and by the service industry a long time ago.

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10 minutes ago, soldier4402 said:

The oil change gimic was created for and by the service industry a long time ago.

Changing oil isn't a gimic, it's probably the single most important thing you can do.

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I think what he meant was the obsession we all have with getting it changed at low hours, getting every last drop, etc.

i have run oil analysis on mine and have readily determined I could go 2 seasons without changing the oil, but I still do it every season despite analytical proof it isn't needed. Why? $100k boat and $25 bucks to change the oil, seems cheap enough just to do it.

Same holds true with cars. Many can easily go 10-15k miles between oil changes but most people still change it at 3000.

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16 hours ago, paulswagelock said:

I think what he meant was the obsession we all have with getting it changed at low hours, getting every last drop, etc.

i have run oil analysis on mine and have readily determined I could go 2 seasons without changing the oil, but I still do it every season despite analytical proof it isn't needed. Why? $100k boat and $25 bucks to change the oil, seems cheap enough just to do it.

Same holds true with cars. Many can easily go 10-15k miles between oil changes but most people still change it at 3000.

Yes the excessive frequency like the old 3k miles on car.  Even in a boat granted you are running higher rpm, but if your low hours a year or even normal hours probably hardly dictates an oil change every year. 

 

I'm not sure most do the 3k on cars still, probably a lot but that's because its a service gimic.  The engineers and automakers are warrantying these engines out to 5 years or 100k miles, and they recommend on most cars and trucks 7-10k miles, so do I believe the engineers and manufacture or the service center trying to sell me something?

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The Ford dealer where I bought my truck tried to convince me that I needed to change my oil every 3k. I laughed at him. What's really annoying is that the trucks computer has been programmed to alert me every 3K miles to change my oil. My only option is to reset the alert to zero which then starts the "clock" back to 3K miles alert. I can't adjust it to 4K or 5K. The public is brainwashed to the 3K mile rule.

The other thing I always wondered about from Ford is the oil conditioning. I asked them what that was. He said it breaks up potential sludge. Hmmmm...my trucks on blood thinners.

My Focus uses semi synthetic oil. I don't get it changed until 7K or 8K. Usually combine tire rotation with the oil change.

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10 minutes ago, SST said:

The Ford dealer where I bought my truck tried to convince me that I needed to change my oil every 3k. I laughed at him. What's really annoying is that the trucks computer has been programmed to alert me every 3K miles to change my oil. My only option is to reset the alert to zero which then starts the "clock" back to 3K miles alert. I can't adjust it to 4K or 5K. The public is brainwashed to the 3K mile rule.

The other thing I always wondered about from Ford is the oil conditioning. I asked them what that was. He said it breaks up potential sludge. Hmmmm...my trucks on blood thinners.

My Focus uses semi synthetic oil. I don't get it changed until 7K or 8K. Usually combine tire rotation with the oil change.

Weird all the fords I have go by mileage and usage, usually dings around 7k or so.  Many people have done oil analysis even at miles close to 10k with results showing their oil is fine.  Theres also harm in changing it frequently as well, as your never letting the oil break down.

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