AFDD

Transom plate replacement, 327 SSX (mercruiser 8.2)

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Local dealer principle has said nearly all the 327 SSX he sold required transom plate replacement due to failure where a hose passed through the hull. The 2012 model I'm looking; he's suggesting allow for engine out repairs $$$$

Is this a real reoccurring issue with the  mercruiser installations

cheers 

 

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There should be an upgrade kit that replaces the hose with a plastic tube, also allowing all wear items to be serviced from the drive side in the future. Engine out to replace these hoses because the flange where they terminate are on the engine side of the transom, directly in back of the engines. With salt use, the transom plates can corrode these hoses shut, and the studs on the flanges can shear when attempting to replace (happened to me on my last boat with a Merc).

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Ok, I'd heard the hose gets compressed due to salt crystals, but local dealer said he had an in situ fix ?

He then said that as you noted the transom plate will still corrode where a hose connects and thus necissates removal to replace the transom plates. I can't quite understand how Mercury can in this day/age design such poor equipment.

The dealers quoting $10k for both out, fix & service? 

Im yet to buy this boat so if this is necessary the $ go down.

 

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Is this the condition sometimes referred to as "Bravo-itis".  My '08 270 Sig with 8.1 Merc & B3 had a cooling water pick-up hose that had corroded closed. If was replace by a local indy mechanic without removing the engine.  Now, however, I have what I consider to be excessive water intrusion at the stern.  Perhaps I have a corroded transom plate?  Is water intrusion a symptom of transom plate corrosion?

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I should say that "I can see why they quote engine out" because of where the connection points are, directly behind the engine, and whether the repair can be done with engines in is highly dependent on engine bay access and size of engine.

Big block seriously reduces available space around the engine, especially with two of them.

Technically, if there is enough space, and the studs don't break, this can be an engine-in repair, but sometimes things can be easier and cheaper pulling the engine rather than fighting the lack of space to work in.

As far as I understand, the plastic tube upgrade is the fix, don't know about having to replace the actual transom plate. But I suppose that depends on how bad the corrosion is.

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Time for some good  " In field changes.  "  By you big block guys.   S S threaded pipe nipples? S S over sized washers. Closed cell gaskets. & nuts.  Mechanics are better than many engineers.  They correct the boo boos for you.  A hole saw with a plan. Done

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I'm still being told it's the transom plate that fails and weaps' necessitating engine out for replacement,  another mechanic said it was normal 5+ years on the mercruiser 8.2?

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I checked out a more drive line related forum and the issue is very real with many claiming the mercruiser were fine in fresh water but abimsal in salt, I can only hope later models had this resolved but the rig I'm looking at is 5 years old has seacore yet suffered the salt build up and transom plate failure. 

This boat spent 18months in salt and 4 years is dry stack, the dealer advised that's about right?

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