SST

A new way to drain your oil

20 posts in this topic

 

 I was just thinking that I could just add what SST posted and leave it open, put a hose on it and at the other end of the hose put a petcock valve within easy reach. I think that would work for me

 

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Thats how my 6.2L Merc is set up from the factory. No need for 2 valves though. If you can reach your drain plug (or are pulling the engine) just attach a hose with a cap on the other end. The hose is a stock Merc part you should be able to purchase. Not sure how you can reach the plug on the pan though or attach the hose without a huge oily mess.

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It's a real #$%#$ to get to the drain plugs so I figured to do it when I changed oil next

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Oil pan drain plug nearly impossible to reach on a Big Block engine, unless you have 3 foot long arms and stand on your head.

Connected a used 12VDC electric "Turbo Charger Oil Pump" to end of my pan hose and it pumps pan dry in about a minute, when oil is cold. Just have to make sure to watch it closely if pumping into a container smaller than 7 quarts (like old 1 gallon jugs). I like using the see thru empty RV antifreeze jugs from when I winterize or empty windshield washer fluid jugs for the waste oil. 

Got the used pump off Fleabay for sixty bux.

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I`d like to have a remote drain hose on my pan but short of pulling the engine, I don`t see how you would get it installed properly without pulling the block.

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18 hours ago, Chap243 said:

I`d like to have a remote drain hose on my pan but short of pulling the engine, I don`t see how you would get it installed properly without pulling the block.

I did install the hose on the pan with the engine in the boat. Was a bear to do, was messy, took about 2 1/2 hours and I almost ended up in traction, but did get it done and was certainly worth it. It can be done with will power and patience (and a few choice words). 

There will be bilge cleaning afterwards, since no matter how hard you try, you won't catch all the oil that drips and runs off your hands from the open drain plug while doing this..

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Okay Guys. I have questions about all this oil pan drain hose discussion. Once you succeed in attaching this device to the drain pan drain hole I see 2 issues. One, every oil change, you must contort your arm to reach the shut off valve that controls the flow from oil pan to drain hose. Two, how do you catch all the oil that is now flowing into your bilge?  Remember we are talking about a gallon or so of hot oil. I'm a fan of using a vacuum pump connected to the dipstick tube.

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I have a fumoto drain valve on all my vehicles, but agree I'm not sure it serves much use in a marine application when you can pump out all the oil quicker than releasing the valve and letting it drain. But if you are happy with it that's all that matters!

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5 hours ago, SterndriveEd said:

Okay Guys. I have questions about all this oil pan drain hose discussion. Once you succeed in attaching this device to the drain pan drain hole I see 2 issues. One, every oil change, you must contort your arm to reach the shut off valve that controls the flow from oil pan to drain hose. Two, how do you catch all the oil that is now flowing into your bilge?  Remember we are talking about a gallon or so of hot oil. I'm a fan of using a vacuum pump connected to the dipstick tube.

I think for marine purposes, the best way is to have the valve on the end of the hose, so that it can be pulled through the garboard drain hole, then un capped, then drained into an awaiting pan. My buddy`s Merc, came standard with this set up and it worked smoothly.

I just cant seen to get anyway near the total volume out of mine by suction and I have tried several methods.

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My Merc came with the umbilical drain hose that was attached to the bilge drain plug, it was worthless.  Took hours for the oil to drain.  Besides which my boat is stored on a lift and it is much easier to work from above with a vacuum pump when changing oil.

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The Mercruiser hose kit doesn't use a valve on the hose / fitting, just a plug on the open end of hose and just the 90 degree pan fitting. Feed hose out of bilge, up along side engine. I added a longer section of hose to extend the reach to the turbo oil pump, and another hose from discharge side of pump for the discharge to the jug for the waste oil. As long as end of hose is above oil level / pan, oil won't flow out of hose when plug is removed.

Gravity draining the oil thru the hose will take for ever. Need a pump or vacuum suction to expedite process.

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This is a mod I will be trying this winter. Adding a fumoto valve on the oil pan and a push/pull cable to open and close it with a hose I can pull out the drain hole. If too slow to drain I can always use my electric pump to pull the oil out faster.

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Not sure if your push/pull cable idea is going to work. the valve has to be moved in two different direction to open. You'll have to get the open cable in just the right angle to be successful.

Just add a 90* fitting at the pan and a fitting with a screw on cap at the end of the hose 

 

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42 minutes ago, Phillbo said:

Not sure if your push/pull cable idea is going to work. the valve has to be moved in two different direction to open. You'll have to get the open cable in just the right angle to be successful.

Just add a 90* fitting at the pan and a fitting with a screw on cap at the end of the hose 

Yep, that is the main thing I have to work out, the lever on the valve needs to lift to "unlock" before it can rotate. I've got some ideas, if not I will find several ways on how not to do it.:rolleyes:

 

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Got tired of West Marine doing a long running script before showing item

I use a simple Ball Valve. Seals very well. Only needs a 90 degree movement of the lever. Pick a BRASS valve. Not plastic.

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On 11/22/2017 at 4:04 PM, Phillbo said:

I've had one of these on my truck for years. Not much use on a marine engine since you can't reach it.

 

http://www.fumotousa.com/

I have one on my boat and can reach it just fine.

 

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