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Futzin'

220 SSi, Subwoofer placement options

123 posts in this topic

Would like to add some bass to my system this year.  I'd like to hear some thoughts on various options for bass speakers and location for the 220.  Passive or powered.  Running WetSounds speakers, 4 x 6.5s and 2 x 8s.  I'm also interested in a remote output knob for quick adjustment for various types of music.

Considering something in the engine compartment (need to port it?).

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I always assumed if I didn’t go bazzoka tube in the port side locker under the dash, I would put it behind the passager seat in that storage area. Not sure if I would face it forward toward the seat or laterally toward starboard. 

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It’s a tough boat to put a sub in. I have an 8 inch Bazooka Marine sub in the port console. No cutting.

i had a sub in the engine compartment on my previous 2003 220SSi.  Port console sounds better.

brick

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That locker in my boat is always full.  Not sure what effect that would have on sound.

Thanks Paul.

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2 minutes ago, Ksupaul said:

I always assumed if I didn’t go bazzoka tube in the port side locker under the dash, I would put it behind the passager seat in that storage area. Not sure if I would face it forward toward the seat or laterally toward starboard. 

The port “L” seat is curved. Hard to put a sub in.

brick

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Just now, Futzin' said:

That locker in my boat is always full.  Not sure what effect that would have on sound.

Thanks Paul.

My locker is filled with life jackets. No change in sound.

brick

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Thanks, brick.  If you were starting from scratch today, would you do anything differently with bass?

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I seem to lean toward the idea of a prefab box, amp combo in a locker somewhere.  Would it be muffled?  Would porting it help?

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If I were doing the install today, I might go with two Bazooka subs to double the thump.

brick

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1 minute ago, Futzin' said:

I seem to lean toward the idea of a prefab box, amp combo in a locker somewhere.  Would it be muffled?  Would porting it help?

The port console door is only 8.75 inches wide, so size is the biggest issue. The Bazooka sub is ported.

brick

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5 minutes ago, brick said:

The port “L” seat is curved. Hard to put a sub in.

brick

I think forward facing there would be real tough. I did take a cover off a 10” and found a mostly flat spot with some room facing  starboard. But not much room. It is kind of angled vertically though. Will take a chunk out of that storage too. 

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1 minute ago, Futzin' said:

By porting, I mean cutting a vent hole to allow air/sound to escape the locker. 

The port console is not sealed. You will hear bass coming from the recessed cup holder area beside the seat, and it also vents into the port “L” seat.

brick

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18 minutes ago, Futzin' said:

Would it be muffled?  Would porting it help?

Yes, a closed insulated locker will reduce the perceived bass in the main cabin. You really need to vent the locker with a vent thats roughly the same or larger surface area of the woofer, to be ideal. Next, the distance from the woofer to the vent is a consideration. Further away reduce the effectiveness and creates timing issues. 

Really want to first find a spot that will allow for the woofer to radiate directly into the cabin. Id work through every scenario before settling on a woofer closed in a locker. 

A single 12" woofer has the roughly the same surface are as two 8" woofers. More efficient to drive then two woofers and will also deliver deeper bass then any number of smaller woofers. 

Im not a fan of "powered" woofers. Over all, I think you get a better setup with a woofer in a custom enclosure or infinite-baffle (free-air) and amp, then a all-in-1 setup. However, there are times where those self powered setups are the best way to go. 

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I wouldn't fully inclose in a locker you would lose a lot of the effect of it, and can see it making things rattle.  Ive done three of my boats and have always done them under the seats.  Cutting the first time is always nerve wracking, but most subs come with a cut out with them.  Take it to where you want it and cut it out.  Just be sure your not cutting through wiring or anything else important.  Ive never noticed a big issue with the compartment being full either.  I'm sure it degrades sound, but end of the day your setting up a speaker in a non enclosed boat with a bunch of background noise.

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brick, do you find that the tube sounds better if that hatch door is open?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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26 minutes ago, Futzin' said:

brick, do you find that the tube sounds better if that hatch door is open?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Surprisingly little difference. It sounds the same open or closed. It is not as good as my home theater system, and it is now a 13 year old installation, but you can run at 40mph and hear and feel the thump.

i know there are better speakers and amps available now, but no plans to upgrade yet.

Drop over some time and have a listen.

brick

 

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6 hours ago, Futzin' said:

Storage space is hard to give up.

This is where an infinite-baffle woofer can shine! No need for a constructed enclosure behind it to take up storage space, we use the whole locker cavity as the enclosure. Make 4-6 inches of woofer basket into the locker, thats all. 

The biggest difference between a closed up woofer and a direct-radiating woofer. A closed woofer acts more a boat shaker. The output radiates off the hull and vibrates the boat. A direct radiating allows fore a more coherent bass to be heard and felt. They are more musical with less boat vibration.  

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Thanks.

An IB sub mounted in the port section of the stern L seat would seem to be a likely location.  Always lots of stuff in that locker though.  Too many folks unhappy with a free air sub make me nervous about it, too.

A passive tube or two seems less risky, on the whole.  

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3 hours ago, Futzin' said:

Always lots of stuff in that locker though.

An ID doesnt take up much room and as long as the gear is not sharp or heavy, no issue with stuff stored in there by the back of the woofer. 

3 hours ago, Futzin' said:

Too many folks unhappy with a free air sub make me nervous about it, too

Most have never heard one done properly. So the concept gets the blame, rather then the poor execution. In incompatible location, using a woofer thats not even intended for IB or poorly tuned setup are the usual culprits. 

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The port console door is 8.75 inches wide. A Bazooka 8 inch marine sub will fit. The 10 inch version does not. 

If photobucket still worked, I would post a picture...

PM me your email address and I will send you a pic.

brick

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1 hour ago, Futzin' said:

Thank you.

So what are examples of proper locations for IB subs?

You need a rigid, flat surface that offers complete front to rear isolation. I also caution about location on a wall thats adjacent to a hinged latching door. They can rattle. 

Just note, a 10" is 50% more speaker surface area then an 8" woofer. Sound quality wise, this equals deeper bass, which always improves the sound. It also improves noticeably more output (volume) without the need for additional amp wattage. Larger woofer is naturally more efficient. Not to mention the reduction on perceived output when you close up a woofer. I always like to try and find a viable direct-radiating woofer solution first, before moving to a closed in woofer. 

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