Futzin'

220 SSi, Subwoofer placement options

158 posts in this topic

My take....I'm anti extra holes in the boat so location wise, I'm for either port or starboard console.  I don't know that I'd like the sub directly under the steering wheel but that you can fit a larger sub in that starboard side. 

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11 minutes ago, tomnjo said:

I hear ya. Wasn't sure how you used it. My old boat had fillers, stayed in 100% off the time but we used the space to stash a plastic tub with snacks, etc.

BTW, plastic tub was green Rubbermaid. Matched the boat.   :D

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Futzin

I guess I would probably want to know prices for the options to make a better decision. Honestly I am in your boat. At this time I am leaning to option 3. 

That said, I still can’t believe I haven’t found pictures of someone doing the same to thier 220. 

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What about swapping your 8 inch bench seat speakers for 8 inch subs?

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So lets summarize a little. Size matters. A larger woofer is always better. A sub (pardon the pun) category of size, is more surface area. Two smaller woofers might yield more output then a single larger woofer, but the at the cost of bass depth.

So if you can get a 10 in a locker, thats better then an 8 in the same locker. Either way, a vent grill to let the bass radiate out is a plus. There are some off the shelf options as well as custom ones can be made. 

Next up radiation. Direct-radiation, as in having the woofer firing right into the cabin, beats a woofer closed in a locker any day of the week. Even a direct radiating smaller woofer can be better then a closed up larger woofer. 

Looking at those pics, what about the area just forward of the cooler well, right next to the captain's chair? Flat? Large enough for 10", so about 11.25" OD. 

This is really coming down to a case of what will the boat physically and dimensionaly allow you to do.  

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I'll try to find out today how much depth there might be behind the side walls. I'm actually driving to the lake today to check on her.

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11 minutes ago, Futzin' said:

I'll try to find out today how much depth there might be behind the side walls. I'm actually driving to the lake today to check on her.

There is not enough depth, and the liner is very thin and has a lot of flex. You can access the area easily by removing the cooler insert.

brick

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Can the liner be backed with something? I used pieces of 3/4 inch PVC board with my 6x9s. Also, is the area flat enough?

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The side walls are flat, but yes thin as brick mentions. I'm thinking the gap between the sidewall and the boat varies from 2 to 5 in.

In my mind the tube option is low-risk and a fairly known quantity. Too many people, to me, seem to be unhappy with free air subs after installation. Tom's idea is interesting, but again I don't know how they would sound in that space.

All else being equal, I would rather have a direct radiating sub. But all else is not equal. I highly value and use my storage, for example.

I have not made up my mind.

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A thin wall and flex can be dealt with. Close on depth can be dealt with, with a minor spacer ring under the basket, providing it does not push the woofer out in contact with a moving seat. 

1 hour ago, Futzin' said:

Too many people, to me, seem to be unhappy with free air subs after installation

Its like knocking Italian food after trying a mall food court pizza. When everything about it on the front side, is wrong, cant help that the outcome sux. 

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At boat now...quick notes 

I think there may be room for an 8in sub behind the passenger seat, in the port cockpit seat locker. Fairly tight, but gaps up the gunnel and a bit into engine compartment.  Interior is 48x14x26, usually full of stuff. Have pics of the radius there.

The port console is gappy, the starboard console is not. My port console opening is only 8 1/8 in wide at most.

The bow lockers are pretty tight, not opposed to an 8in sub up there. 36x15x15, roughly.  Usually gear in there too. Dunno what effect gear has on IB/FA subs.

A new spot would be high on port console where the capacity plate is, firing into walkway.  Next to the door basically.  24" off floor to center.  Material 3/8" thick I think. Storage tub mold is close there behind.

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10 minutes ago, Futzin' said:

 

A new spot would be high on port console where the capacity plate is, firing into walkway.  Next to the door basically.  24" off floor to center.  Material 3/8" thick I think. Storage tub mold is close there behind.

Check clearance to the side of the glovebox.

brick

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Pretty sure the magnet will clear, forward.  Puts the back of the sub close to that tub mold though, if that matters.

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I'm not advocating that location, just pointing it out. It would be a fairly wet location, and would probably lose a lot of sound at that height and in the walkway

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I'm in a similar situation as I want to add a sub to the 220 and have been looking at a few options. I began the process last summer but other issues with the boat caused me to postpone this project.

One potential idea I have kicked around that I did not see on your list was to add a 10" sub into the port console. I realize a Bazooka Tube would not fit through the opening however you could probably get a 10" in there if you had the right size enclosure. I have not done the measurements so maybe Brick can give some thoughts but you should be able to get one like the link below through there (or build your own that fits).

https://www.amazon.com/Subwoofer-Universal-Regular-Standard-Enclosure/dp/B00IFEGDZO/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518363513&sr=1-4&keywords=10+sub+box

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Yes, a sub box could be used, but I would stay away from an enclosure that is made from MDF, due to moisture/water concerns.

brick

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18 minutes ago, brick said:

Yes, a sub box could be used, but I would stay away from an enclosure that is made from MDF, due to moisture/water concerns.

brick

I tend to agree on the MDF and if possible would look for something more marine specific. At one point kicker made a marine enclosure like the one below (they appear to be discontinued). No idea if the enclosures were any good but something similar to that could work then load with sub of your choice.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-YmPJxPolVsS/p_20606SKM10/Kicker-SKM10.html

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17 minutes ago, brick said:

stay away from an enclosure that is made from MDF

More so, steer clear of pre-made off the shelf mobile audio enclosures. They tend to be un-costed, unsealed. Most often too thin and made with no thicker then 5/8" material. Often the joints are not glued and only have a few staples per side. They are often made from a single continuous piece of wood and look like an unfolded cardboard box prior to assembly., They fold the sections together and staple the joints, then cover in a moisture holding carpet. 

In the end, its not the MDF that worries me, but the complete lack of marine tolerant construction. 

Even those q-bomb boxes that are coated outside with bedliner are cheap. Raw on the inside with no caulking in the joints, May not even have glued joints. Bed liner is not even 100% water resistant.   

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That Kicker SKM-10 set was an awesome setup for the right application. We used quite a few over the years. Sadly, Kicker did retire them as they did not move enough. It was a blow molded poly enclosure with a 1.0ft3 net volume. Its gross dimensions were smaller then the same size wood enclosure made using .75" thick ply. 

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need to upload some recent pics, but some thoughts for now:

Locations ruled out:  Starboard console compartment; too 'tight' out into cabin.  Engine compartment; same reason.  Port cockpit seat main face; unwilling to cut large hole + lose space in middle of interior of that locker + already have two 8" coaxs nearby...too cluttered looking.

Still considering:

1. Port console compartment.  It has a nice gap at top of 'kick panel', below dash.  Would let a sub radiate out.  Only have 8 1/8" opening though at widest point unless I cut.  Tube, or sub-in-a-box better here?

2. Port cockpit seat, forward facing.  Essentially behind passenger seat.  It's close to the seat and there's a slight radius, but I think an 8" and grill will fit.  Need to post my pics of this radius, but if the hole is cut as close to the side of the boat as possible, I think it may be doable.  Would radiate nicely in that footwell out into cockpit.  It's a somewhat snug locker; there's about a 4"x4" opening forward, and a slight gap rearward.  Could maybe do a traditional sub here with a box behind it (need to do research on this + check length of gear we store here).  Other option would be a Free Air / Infinite Baffle sub here.  Still have unanswered questions about those though.

3. Starboard bow locker.  Could put an 8" IB sub there.  It's a pretty tight locker.  We usually have our bow filler cushion in, so that should provide reflection rearward.

Thoughts?

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Some pics:

These are of the port cockpit seat (considering a forward facing 8" FA prolly here).

y4mRWzGuRK0yOZLz7LcTM51jyp8b59s_zujHQCIO

y4mwCD95vQS12UCVRd7SZzW9jQQZmt4fJr7JhxhH

y4mNefEfiDSoPnytYAmY7fl5H4Ppo7Oz0fr0cRsT

y4mFzEpgtaexwKdO7Pf3ViuIRpZLOXqidmY-pqZx

The tablet is 8 5/8" long.

This shows the gap/opening forward along the gunnel.

y4m3FkwgTR3u0fFG4lI722mQvQtaDLwwBvqpNdzV

This shows the small gap aft (above the 45 degree carpet angle near the washer in upper right of pic)

y4m2sB301YIfA_N7GXxi1RmDfGsL2RybVGn3oQQO

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#$^% that might fit a 10”!!  Eh maybe not. Is the seat all the way forward in the 4th picture?

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Seat is all the way forward at all times . . . forgot it even moved actually.

Between the radius and the seat back, I don't think a 10" will work; not totally sure about an 8".  I like this location, though.

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