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George D

2001 300 Signature shift cables for Bravo III

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Hi, I am going to pull both drives and go through my transom seals/bellows/gimbal. My cables are really sticky so I want to do those as well. What cables are needed for the outdrives? I searched the forum but only came up with Volvo parts.

Thanks

 

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A 2001 boat can have none standard parts by now. Would need data for Shepherd &  Wingnut to help you.  Engine make & sizes . Drive type.  Maybe even a couple of photos to confirm the equipment ? 

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Twin 305 TBI mercruisers, Bravo 3 drives. I am going to pull the drives this weekend and check the cables for part numbers.

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Very timely.  One of my cables was starting to get sticky at the end of the season.  I was contemplating changing them and the bellows myself.  I spent some time last weekend watching YouTube videos on the process.  

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On 2/12/2018 at 4:20 PM, George D said:

Hi, I am going to pull both drives and go through my transom seals/bellows/gimbal. My cables are really sticky so I want to do those as well. What cables are needed for the outdrives? I searched the forum but only came up with Volvo parts.

Thanks

 

 

On 2/13/2018 at 1:21 PM, Roady68 said:

Very timely.  One of my cables was starting to get sticky at the end of the season.  I was contemplating changing them and the bellows myself.  I spent some time last weekend watching YouTube videos on the process.  

For those boats, should you need new bellows, I would go the following:

2 x 861150T02 and 87843 - Bravo thru-transom gear oil reservoir fitting and spare e-ring (these plastic fittings like to break VERY easily)

Image result for 861150t02

2 x 865437A03 - Bravo rear shift cable

2 x 8M0095485 - Bravo transom bellows kit (included gimbal bearing, u-joint, exhaust, and shift bellows, gear oil hose, mounting o-ring kit and updated water hose kit)

2 x 805320A03 - Bravo/Alpha trim sender kit

4 x 8M00824_ _ - Mercury Gen I Platinum - latest version shift and throttle cables. These will be Mercury Gen 1 standard type. If your current shift and throttle cables from the remote control to the engines are original, they'll be in dire need of replacement. Chaparral has removed their parts look up form the webpage so you'll need to do the following to get the correct length:

- call Cecil Marine and have them tell you the length in feet from Chaparral parts lookup 

- find the original part numbers stamped on the 4 Teleflex cables. Lets say one or more are 22' in length - then new Mercury Gen I Platinum part number will be 8M0082495. Wish Mercury had kept it simple with the last 2 numbers being the length in feet. Platinum version gives the nicest shift feel and reduced effort vs. standard, especially for long runs and numerous bends. Last 2 numbers stamped in the Teleflex cables are the length in feet. 

Let us suppose you find the following info for your remote control cables: PORT engine has a 22' and a 21', and STBD has 19' and 18'.

To make it easier, I call a Mercury dealer for the above Mercury parts, as well as the latest Gen I Platinum superseded numbers for 877773a22, 877773a21, 877773a19 and 877773a18. (this would be 8M0082495, 8M0082494, 8M0082492 and 8M0082491)

NOTE: your current remote control cables quite likely have spray foam in place to help keep exhaust and noise from escaping the engine room. Any hardened spray foam you remove to re&re the cables, spray in new foam in place when work is completed for safety and decreased NVH.

Few last things:

- as I'm sure you know, you'll need an alignment tool to verify engine alignment, and to set up the new gimbal bearing

- will need to calibrate the new trim senders (recommend putting the drive in Bravo 1 position first for faster hole shot and increased visibility when getting on plane) - have not noticed any adverse handling effects with your hull when going from Bravo 3 position to Bravo 1 position.

- installing the new water hose design hook up on the rear of each engine is a PITA

- get some Mercury Xtreme grease for the drive yoke splines and 4 screws for the trim senders

- HIGHLY recommend installing the exhaust bellow vs exhaust tube. A PITA to be sure, but worth it for reduced noise levels while cruising. You won't notice any difference in power if your boat currently has the exhaust tubes in place. Hang and stretch out the exhaust bellows with a heavy pipe for a day or 2 before installing. 

- torque the upper gimbal ring nuts to spec - I can't recall the 2 specs off the top of my head, but depends on size of upper bolts/nuts.

 

 

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Thanks for all the info, I pulled the starboard outdrive Saturday, looks like someone had it off recently as the gimbal and bellows looked excellent. I removed the drive to plate cable per the instructions on sterndrives.com . Going to try to get the rest if it apart soon, but we are going to get whacked with another Noreaster tomorrow.

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Pulled my teleflex cables yesterday. Looks like I have a 20,19,18 and 17. Thanks for the tip on the foam. if I hadn't read that, I would have been nervous about pulling them through once they bound up.

A few things I learned, when taking the cables off the shifter, the 3/8th nut is impossible to get a wrench on, but if you move the shifter (after disconnecting the engine side) there is a hole cut out in the bracket that you can pass a socket and extension through for this purpose. Also, note the position of the black barrel spacers. One cable has it on the inside, the other on the outside. And of course, it's snowing again today.....

  

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On 4/2/2018 at 11:55 AM, George D said:

Pulled my teleflex cables yesterday. Looks like I have a 20,19,18 and 17. Thanks for the tip on the foam. if I hadn't read that, I would have been nervous about pulling them through once they bound up.

A few things I learned, when taking the cables off the shifter, the 3/8th nut is impossible to get a wrench on, but if you move the shifter (after disconnecting the engine side) there is a hole cut out in the bracket that you can pass a socket and extension through for this purpose. Also, note the position of the black barrel spacers. One cable has it on the inside, the other on the outside. And of course, it's snowing again today.....

  

You're so right; I should have made mention to try and keep track of positions of black plastic barrels on each cable. Makes installation of replacement cables easier for set up.

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I called my Mercury dealer but he is saying I should have Gen II cables on a 2001?  How can I tell which control I have?

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Can the upper cables (from engine to the controller at the helm) be replaced once boat is in the water?  I didn't see anything that says I have to get to the outdrive. But haven't looked at the cable replacement in much detail.  I am betting that my sticking shifter is the lower cable which I will replace with bellows.  

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6 hours ago, Roady68 said:

Can the upper cables (from engine to the controller at the helm) be replaced once boat is in the water?  I didn't see anything that says I have to get to the outdrive. But haven't looked at the cable replacement in much detail.  I am betting that my sticking shifter is the lower cable which I will replace with bellows.  

MerCruiser powered versions can certainly have the remote control and engine control cables changed in or out of the water - makes no difference. Rear shift cable of course has be to done with the boat out of the water.

Volvo powered version have the shift cable run directly from the shifter all the way through the transom and connected directly to the drive which requires the boat to be out of the water for replacement.

On 4/4/2018 at 4:29 PM, George D said:

I called my Mercury dealer but he is saying I should have Gen II cables on a 2001?  How can I tell which control I have?

 

You mentioned in an earlier post about black barrel spacers. That's a Gen I design. Gen II has a grooved slot to lock the cable to the remote control module.

I don't think the Gen II shifter came out until mid 2005 or later. Easiest way to identify apart from finding a part number on the shifter or cable is to watch the cables where they come out of the control box while the shift or throttle handle(s) are being moved. Gen I has the angle of the cables change/move where they exit the control module, while Gen II has all movement located inside the shifter module itself - the Gen II cables move very little externally when shifting or throttling. Gen II module is roughly 4" longer than Gen I version too.

Wish I had a video to show what I mean, but sadly I can't find anything applicable on the net.

NOTE: for Bravo equipped models with a mechanical remote control, don't shift into gear without the engine running. Shift plate doesn't like that treatment.

I can probably tell you just by a picture of the remote control though. Note the black barrel on the remote control end on Gen I vs slot design for Gen II pics below.

Gen I style:

Image result for mercury control cables

 

Gen II style:

Image result for mercury control cables

 

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Thanks.

Long story short, parts guy was wrong, Shepherd was right.

I went to pick up my Mercury parts and only the transom cables were correct. Despite me telling the guy about 50 times I had Gen 1 cables, he insisted I was wrong and he would connect me with the right parts. I get there and they were wrong.

I had a launch appointment made and needed the cables so I ended up using what they had in stock which were the standard Teleflex cables. Not too happy with my decision as the cables don't feel very good even though they are new and routed the exact same way as the originals. I am going to re-check them with the Mercury shifter tool.

As far as installing them, I used the instructions from sterndrives.com, paying special attention to the part about the spiral wrap. Biggest tip was from a marine mechanic that told me to pull the core, then run line trimmer line up to the shifter to give the new cable a guide when installing.

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