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Further

Stereo Upgrade

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Putting together all my supplies for upgrading the stereo in my new to me used Chaparral Sunesta 234.

 I've got 4- 6.5" kicker = 190 watt max; 65RMS @ 4 ohm, 1 - 10" kicker subwoofer = 300 watt; 150 RMS @ 4ohm, Kenwood 5 channel class D 600 watt amplifier = 50 watt x 4 at 4ohm and 300 watt x 1 @ 4 ohm. Kenwood head unit with bluetooth  and replacing remotes at bow, stern and helm with kenwood remotes. 

Speakers and sub have led grill with controller.

Just want to confirm I got the wire size and fuse correct.... I plan on using 4 AWG power and ground directly to the battery from the amp (will be placed near the head unit. 80 amp ANL type fuse - Amplifier draws total of 58 amps based on literature.... Ok to go with 80 or should I find something closer to 60? 

I've seen 16 gauge speaker wire that comes with LED power wires in the same jacket and was thinking of using that. Good idea or better to just use separate wire? 

Is 16 gauge ok to use for the speakers? All no more than 10' from the amp.

Thanks in advance!

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8 minutes ago, Further said:

power and ground directly to the battery from the amp

Does this boat have a main battery switch? 

8 minutes ago, Further said:

80 amp ANL type fuse

Where will this be placed? In the bilge/engine bay area?

No advantage to over protect what the amp's potential is, but more importantly, you dont want to over protect the cable's capacity. 

10 minutes ago, Further said:

I've seen 16 gauge speaker wire that comes with LED power wires in the same jacket

Just an FYI, you need 4 conductors just for the RGB LEDs.  

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13 minutes ago, Was_Wylie_Tunes said:

Does this boat have a main battery switch?   Yes and an isolator.  2 batteries

Where will this be placed? In the bilge/engine bay area?  Yes, as close as i can get it to the house battery where the positive lead will be connected.  I'll likely mount it on the same backing plate the isolator is mounted on - see pic.

No advantage to over protect what the amp's potential is, but more importantly, you dont want to over protect the cable's capacity.   
So should I find a 60 amp fuse?

Just an FYI, you need 4 conductors just for the RGB LEDs.  I'm leaning towards running separate 16/2 for the speakers and 20/4 for the LED.

Do you recommend installing an on/off switch to the head unit so it doesn't drain on the battery or is switching the main battery switch to off when I'm done enough?

 

 

IMG_2853-1.jpg

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16 minutes ago, Further said:

Do you recommend installing an on/off switch to the head unit so it doesn't drain on the battery or is switching the main battery switch to off when I'm done enough?

No need for another switch. Your 1/2/BOTH switch is all thats needed, when all the audio is wired correctly. No need to bypass the switch with the amps or head unit MEM. 

Id suggest a marine breaker over a car audio fuse holder

16ga is fine for speakers. Id suggest 14 min or 12 ga is better for the woofer @ 300W rms. 

60A circuit protection is likely fine. Those 4ga runs would have to be real long. 

You can run as small as 28/4 for the LEDs. 

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8 minutes ago, Was_Wylie_Tunes said:

No need for another switch. Your 1/2/BOTH switch is all thats needed, when all the audio is wired correctly. No need to bypass the switch with the amps or head unit MEM. 

Id suggest a marine breaker over a car audio fuse holder

16ga is fine for speakers. Id suggest 14 min or 12 ga is better for the woofer @ 300W rms. 

60A circuit protection is likely fine. Those 4ga runs would have to be real long. 

You can run as small as 28/4 for the LEDs. 

Awesome thanks. Any recommendations on where to buy this stuff?  Was looking at the amp wiring kits but many don’t have exactly what I need so probably better to buy everything separate. 

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Just my thoughts, I would rather use a breaker than a fuse. I breaker can be reset, but a fuse you would need to replace it. 

Where to buy, many options Defender.com and  tinnedmarinewire.com just for starters.

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11 hours ago, Further said:

Awesome thanks. Any recommendations on where to buy this stuff?  Was looking at the amp wiring kits but many don’t have exactly what I need so probably better to buy everything separate. 

Do not waist money on an automotive amp install kit. You need to purchase a-la-carte specific to your install. Custom cut to length power cables, terminal ends, solder and heat shrink, RCAs that are long enough but not too long that you have to coil up a ton of slack, etc. There are places you can get everything you need, as well as installation and setup tips. Look for a local marine audio shop first. Even if they dont carry all the brands you are looking at, they may have a comparable model that they are confident in. 

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Hey all, so finally getting around to installing the new system. Have all my LED and speaker wires run and new power and ground to the amp. Still a bit confused and just need clarification on wiring between the head unit and amp. I’ve got all 4 speakers and sub going to my 5 channel amp. Power and ground going to amp(direct from battery). Patch cables going from amp to head unit. So question is do I just use the new head unit harness and connect the remote wire from there to the amp?  Are there any other connections or is the remote wire what powers the head unit off the amp?  Tape off all the unused wires on the wiring harness at the head unit?  

TIA

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The head unit does NOT get it's power from the remote wire. When the head unit is turned on, it uses the remote wire to send 12v to the amp. That remote wire is connected to a relay in the amp which turns on the amp power.

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13 hours ago, Further said:

Power and ground going to amp(direct from battery)

In a previous post, you posted a pic of your 1/2/BOTH battery switch. I dont suggest bypassing it. 

Head unit black and yellow should terminate to the amp's power cable temrinals

Red is switched

Blue/wht turn-on to amp's turn-on

nothing else needed if no speakers will be wired to head 

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6 hours ago, Was_Wylie_Tunes said:

In a previous post, you posted a pic of your 1/2/BOTH battery switch. I dont suggest bypassing it. 

Head unit black and yellow should terminate to the amp's power cable temrinals

Red is switched

Blue/wht turn-on to amp's turn-on

nothing else needed if no speakers will be wired to head 

Thanks. No I didn’t bypass the switch- sorry mis-stated. I ran positive cable from amp power to breaker near battery then from breaker to 1/2/both switch. Ground cable from amp to battery direct. 

So the black and yellow connect to the same terminals where I’ve got the large positive and negative cables running to the battery?  Which is positive which is negative?

what do you mean red is switched?  Do I connect the red from the head unit to the existing red in the harness?

guessing blue is the remote wire so that goes to the remote terminal on the amp?

sorry for so many and silly questions... wish there was a wiring diagram that was clear on this. 

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4 hours ago, Further said:

Thanks. No I didn’t bypass the switch- sorry mis-stated. I ran positive cable from amp power to breaker near battery then from breaker to 1/2/both switch. Ground cable from amp to battery direct. 

Good deal, no problem. The common output of the switch is the best spot. 

 

5 hours ago, Further said:

So the black and yellow connect to the same terminals where I’ve got the large positive and negative cables running to the battery?  Which is positive which is negative?

Electrically yes, but in most cases, we find its shorter and easier to run then to the amp and and connect in with the power cables. Yellow = B+ black B-. This insures the best chance of preventing noise.

5 hours ago, Further said:

what do you mean red is switched?  Do I connect the red from the head unit to the existing red in the harness

head unit red tells the head unit to wake up. its best to be connect to a switched source. 

Head unit wiring has been standardized color wise, for about 30 years. Your amp's manual and the head unit manual should show the basic connections. 

For those that are purchasing new gear, your retailer should be your first source for these details. They should be willing to help. 

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43 minutes ago, Was_Wylie_Tunes said:

Good deal, no problem. The common output of the switch is the best spot. 

 

Electrically yes, but in most cases, we find its shorter and easier to run then to the amp and and connect in with the power cables. Yellow = B+ black B-. This insures the best chance of preventing noise.

head unit red tells the head unit to wake up. its best to be connect to a switched source. 

Head unit wiring has been standardized color wise, for about 30 years. Your amp's manual and the head unit manual should show the basic connections. 

For those that are purchasing new gear, your retailer should be your first source for these details. They should be willing to help. 

Just so I’m clear, yellow from h/u goes to positive on amp; black from h/u goes to negative on amp.  

 Can I connect the red from the h/u to the red on the existing wiring harness?  

There is a blue and white wire coming from the h/u labeled p.cont so assuming this connects to the p.con terminal on the amp?  

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1 hour ago, Further said:

Can I connect the red from the h/u to the red on the existing wiring harness?

I cant say because there is no telling what that red is. You would need to confirm with a volt meter. Is it switched and what switches it on/off. Key or rocker? if its the key, id pass and wire the head unit red to a rocker. I hate having the head on the key witch. 

Blue/wht on head should be the amp turn-on/remote. "p.con" is not ringing a bell right now though. 

yes on the yellow and black. But fuse the yellow where you terminate it.  

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