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Toddavid

Source for replacement nav anchor switch?

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From what I can tell, my switch is made by Carling and is a Contura II V series.

While troubleshooting a weird nav light issue last season (which turned out to be a faulty breaker), I popped open the switch and lost one of the in-line resistors for its incandescent bulb. 

Cecil has the switch for a whopping $49, but street prices for Carling switches are around $10. I’m just having trouble finding a DPDT with a red bulb. Lots with clear bulbs, but can’t find red bulbs. The actuator (button) is fine, just need a reasonably priced switch to get my backlight back.

Bothers me like seeing a missing tooth, especially at night...

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When I swapped out my horn switch for a cockpit light switch, I found a pretty good assortment on eBay. 

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52 minutes ago, Toddavid said:

From what I can tell, my switch is made by Carling and is a Contura II V series.

While troubleshooting a weird nav light issue last season (which turned out to be a faulty breaker), I popped open the switch and lost one of the in-line resistors for its incandescent bulb. 

Cecil has the switch for a whopping $49, but street prices for Carling switches are around $10. I’m just having trouble finding a DPDT with a red bulb. Lots with clear bulbs, but can’t find red bulbs. The actuator (button) is fine, just need a reasonably priced switch to get my backlight back.

Bothers me like seeing a missing tooth, especially at night...

Try Defender.com

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Yes, they are Carling Contura switches but it is likely that your switch like mine was customized for Chap ... backlit, toggle panel, etc. What I did was to buy a compatible generic version of the Chap switch and port the customized parts from Chap switch to the generic one, or vice versa to replace the broken parts in the Chap switch.

 

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10 hours ago, tomnjo said:

Unfortunately, close but no cigar.

The Chap switch has a colored bulb (red), while these units have colored lenses.

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9 hours ago, Richard W said:

Yes, they are Carling Contura switches but it is likely that your switch like mine was customized for Chap ... backlit, toggle panel, etc. What I did was to buy a compatible generic version of the Chap switch and port the customized parts from Chap switch to the generic one, or vice versa to replace the broken parts in the Chap switch.

 

Yep, wish I could do that, but it looks like I lost one part that is specific to the Chap switch: the inline bulb resistor that keeps the red bulb at the proper brightness...

I guess I could take apart another switch and ohm out the resistor and just buy that (pennies), but at some point there are diminishing returns, in terms of my labor investment, disassembling the switch panel multiple times just to save a few bucks...

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1 hour ago, Toddavid said:

Unfortunately, close but no cigar.

The Chap switch has a colored bulb (red), while these units have colored lenses.

Gotcha. So you lenses are white like mine but the bulbs underneath are red. Mine are actually green bulbs under the white lens but the bottom bulb is red when the switch is activated. So you have two red bulbs?  Like this one?

https://rockerswitchpros.com/product/vjd1-uccb/

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3 hours ago, Toddavid said:

I guess I could take apart another switch and ohm out the resistor and just buy that (pennies), but at some point there are diminishing returns, in terms of my labor investment, disassembling the switch panel multiple times just to save a few bucks...

Yup, time or money ... or both when it comes to restoring/repairing classic cars, older boats, etc.

I feel your pain ... I want it to look good and original but the hassle to get there.

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2 hours ago, tomnjo said:

Gotcha. So you lenses are white like mine but the bulbs underneath are red. Mine are actually green bulbs under the white lens but the bottom bulb is red when the switch is activated. So you have two red bulbs?  Like this one?

https://rockerswitchpros.com/product/vjd1-uccb/

Hey now! That looks very promising! Thanks, Tom! Love this forum.

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No problem. Google search is weird. Sometimes you can put in too much info, sometimes a key word or phrase will do it. In this case it was "Carling contura switches with red bulbs." Left out the II and the V. I guess that was too specific, who knows.  :unsure:

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If your LED's are red and it's a carling switch, you need a 330 Ohm resistor in there. 

That resistor will have these color rings: Orange Orange Brown with a gold (5%) tolerance ring.

Might be worth a try, since a resistor is only pennies.

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4 hours ago, aviator41 said:

If your LED's are red and it's a carling switch, you need a 330 Ohm resistor in there. 

That resistor will have these color rings: Orange Orange Brown with a gold (5%) tolerance ring.

Might be worth a try, since a resistor is only pennies.

Ah, where were you yesterday!

I just ordered the switch from Spemco.

Oh well, $16 is better than $50...

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