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SG Boater

Multiple Towables

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On our lake, i believe the only V was the Mark Twain I mentioned above that pulled up the 5.  At least when we first moved there, the rest of the boats were tri-hulls and we thought they were so much cooler looking.  The "V"'s look like boats from the 60's in our mind.  Funny how times and tastes change.  The Mark Twain Tri's were Tri-Sonic.  In fact the biggest boat on the lake was an 18' Tri-Sonic with a Merc 230 something HP IO.  We thought that thing was a barge with an engine off an aircraft carrier.  Funny how things seem so big when you're young.

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3 minutes ago, SG Boater said:

On our lake, i believe the only V was the Mark Twain I mentioned above that pulled up the 5.  At least when we first moved there, the rest of the boats were tri-hulls and we thought they were so much cooler looking.  The "V"'s look like boats from the 60's in our mind.  Funny how times and tastes change.  The Mark Twain Tri's were Tri-Sonic.  In fact the biggest boat on the lake was an 18' Tri-Sonic with a Merc 230 something HP IO.  We thought that thing was a barge with an engine off an aircraft carrier.  Funny how things seem so big when you're young.

I drove an old Mark Twain tri-hull a time or two.  Very straight tracking boat.

I thought my '78 Browning v-hull was advanced for it's time when most were tri-hull.  I kept that boat until the advent of the wakeboard boat; waters became too rough for it.  Went from that '78 17' to my '06 22' Chappy.

 

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I only tried real skis about 65 years ago. Still have a bone lump on my forehead from the first & only attempt.

Back then. Fully staggered start was used for a new person getting up on skis.  EVERYONE was a underweight, ribs showing, person.  Engines were all running special odd ball props with very long lines to allow each person or 2 time to break free before next person tugged on the boat. Best skiers came up last. 

I was 6' 2" & looked like a death camp survivor. Skinny.

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Without removing the rear seat or a mirror, I can't see how the rear cleats look from the inside but I image the same as the front.  I looked through the anchor locker at the backside of the front mount pop up cleats and there is a backing plate.  But it simply backs the perimeter of the upper cleat housing.  There's a hole in the fiberglass that the whole cleat drops down through an 1 1/2" wide by 3" long or so, the backing plate is the same.  Don't think that's where I want to attach a towable.  The safest bet would be to add a ski (towable) eye, but on a 210, it would be a task unless the engine were out.  

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I remember well when my engineer brother-in-law first fired up his drill to add the first eye:

drill sound, "Oops, hmm".  Pause ... "Oh well", drill sound again ... 

That's trust, I guess...

turns out, just a bit of wobble in the pilot bit . . . he's Hank Hill anal...

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Futzin, it appears the Atwood flush mount eye is pretty close if not the exact tow eye used by Chaparral.  Sea Dog also makes one, but looks a little different.  Were the ones you used Atwood?  Judging by the picture you posted in the e-mail chain regarding adding pictures, it appears you matched the Chaparral stock eye with the two you added.  Directions say to cut a 2 1/8 hole that the whole thing recesses into with a large plate on backside.  The Seadog only has two legs on the backside, says it fits the holes of most std. ski tow mounts.  If I do this, I'd like it to match, but wondering if the two smaller holes would be less compromising to the fiberglass than one large 2 1/8 hole, although that's what it appears is there from stock assuming stock is the Atwood.  How thick was the fiberglass when you cut that 2 1/8 hole?  I don't see any additional reinforcement where the current eye is though it is kind of hard to see back there in a 210.  It appears the fiberglass is the same all the way across the back, so guess the glass is strong enough to mount another tow eye a 1' or so to one side or the other of the factory installed center mount eye.  Any other cautions from your experience.

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Been a long time since I did this.  The factory location of my ski eye has extra thickness of fiberglass.  I ordered my extra eyes from my dealer at the time, probably about 2007.  The ski eyes I received came with a substantial backing plate.  Perfect match.  We built it up a bit further with some extra material my BiL had laying around his garage.  He's an anal retentive engineer who works with metals and conveyor systems.  I stayed out his way.

I admit to some apprehension when first we hooked up three slaloms, but the transom stayed on!

My boat is about two hours from me, but let me know if there are any specific pics or measurements I can help with. 

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If the fiberglass is actually thicker where the stock eye is, I don't think I want to chance it.  With a 210, there is no way for me to reach back there and add more material that I can see.  I'll see if I can look closer to see if it is beefed up where the stock eye is.  Do you remember if the mounting hole was fairly large, ie. 2 1/8".  The Atwood that requires that hole for mounting does have a large backing plate, just like my factory eye.  The others all use two posts that go through two smaller holes and simply have washers on the backside.

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I don't remember the mounting hole diameter, but the backing plate that came with was substantial.

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SG, did you want to put additional ones in the "hump" where the existing one is between the vents or more outboard underneath the vents?

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I didn't put them anywhere yet, still debating.  I am thinking towards the ends of the "hump" rather than beneath the vents.  If the back area is beefed up, I'm guessing it would run the width of that hump, yet I'd like to space them a bit so don't have multiple holes near each other.  I only need/want one additional eye so it won't be symetrical, but my thinking is to add one about 1/2 way between the factory center mounted one and the end of the hump to either right or left.  This weekend I'll look to see if I can tell if it's beefed up where the factory one is.  A quick glance the other day didn't look like it, ie. didn't see any plywood or metal plates glassed in or localized "hump" in the glass on the inside indicating more fiberglass, but I'll look again.

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I don't think there is any additional beefing up in the hump. If you remove the narrow carpeted piece of wood that is over the center of the engine and just below the sunpad hinge you may be able to access that area better to add some backing plates of some kind. There are two screws at each end that attach it to the fiberglass. The piece I'm talking about is barely visible in the top of this pic.

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I have had that piece out many times.  Makes what little access there is much easier.  

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I would go with surface mount ski eyes on the hump with some sort of backing plates. I used scrap Trex with steel deck plates glued and screwed to them for backing plates on my upper swimplatform bracket mounts.

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Ran bolts through the center holes with fender washers and locking nuts inside. Also used 5200 between them and the inside of the hull. They ain't moving....

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I will probably just leave go as is for a while.  The only "need" for them is when the nieces and nephews come along, once a year or so, and want to tube double.  None of them ski or wakeboard.  Not sure I want to drill holes in my boat to entertain nieces and nephews once a summer.  Our immediate family all skis, wakeboards and kneeboards, outgrew the tubes.

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Flush Mount Ski TowThis is the atwood.  The mounting hole is 2 1/8", only that small lip catches/overlaps the exterior surface.  Not sure if that the same.  

Image result for seadog flush mount towAnd this is the Sea Dog.  Only the two smaller holes to mount this.  I'm leaning this way to avoid having to cut a big hole. 

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The pressure is on the back of that big honkin' backing plate . . . 

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I've put a LOT of use and pound test to mine . . . rock on . .. 

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