Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
WaterDR

Two Beeps!

40 posts in this topic

2002 Sunesta.  5.7.  Bravo 3.  First time out.  Running fine.  Was going WOT and got an alarm.  Two beeps.  All gauges, temps and levels seem fine.

Any ideas?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check gear lub.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is a flashing symbol on the gauge that has the hour meter.  The symbol is right next to the hours.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe an over rev alarm if you were at WOT. Do you remember what your RPMs were?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That was my thought too...

But I was coming back randomly.  Since I added fluid it hasn’t returned.  The level though was nearly at the full mark.  I suppose it could have bounced around 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, WaterDR said:

That was my thought too...

But I was coming back randomly.  Since I added fluid it hasn’t returned.  The level though was nearly at the full mark.  I suppose it could have bounced around 

Those floats can become oil saturated and start "semi-floating" causing the intermittent alarm you describe. Also remember too that the temperature indication you see on the helm display is the engine coolant temperature, and not a representation of how hot the exhaust gasses are exiting the 4" elbows. A weak raw water pump can keep the block happy, but may not be pushing enough water through the risers to mix with and quench the exhaust at high RPM which will set an exhaust temperature alarm. Kinda important that happens before the mixture passes through the transom plate, as fiberglass burns pretty good. My bet is your float is sinking, but that's easy to check. Either disconnect the plug in wire harness at the bottle, or use a piece of wire to keep the float in the up position during your test run.  W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for fhe advice!  I will check.  

I know the PO was pretty firm to keep an eye on the level.  I expected it to drop a bit, because it was just changed and suspected an air bubble.  But it dropped so little and when I initially checked it when the alarm went off it was so close to full that I didn’t even bother with it.

is there an issue with over filling?

I may pull some fluid back out with a syringe and see what happens.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, WaterDR said:

Thanks for fhe advice!  I will check.  

I know the PO was pretty firm to keep an eye on the level.  I expected it to drop a bit, because it was just changed and suspected an air bubble.  But it dropped so little and when I initially checked it when the alarm went off it was so close to full that I didn’t even bother with it.

is there an issue with over filling?

I may pull some fluid back out with a syringe and see what happens.

 

I keep them 1/2" from the top without issue.  W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/14/2018 at 2:31 PM, WaterDR said:

2002 Sunesta.  5.7.  Bravo 3.  First time out.  Running fine.  Was going WOT and got an alarm.  Two beeps.  All gauges, temps and levels seem fine.

Any ideas?

I just noticed that you said two beeps a minute and on the Smart Craft System, the low out drive lube oil strategy will set a constant alarm as it is deemed a critical condition. Below is a list of the possibilities for 2 beeps a minute. Notice the frequency column (Audio Alarm) that may help track down your bad actor and the most common in my experience are a failing IAC valve, or the raw water pressure sensor mounted to the power steering cooler.An actual low sea water pressure situation will however set a constant alarm, with two beeps per minute reserved for an electrical sensor failure. These alarm codes have numbers and descriptions that can be read off of a Merc hand held scan tool, and off the newer smart craft displays, but in your case you would need to buy the tool or visit the dealer.  I encourage every Merc owner with this system to print out and carry a copy of this list aboard as it can save a vacation.    W

 

 

 

Fault

 

 

SC1000

Audio Alarm

Available Power

 

 

Description

 

 

Cam Sensor

 

 

Yes

 

 

2 Bp/min

 

 

90%

Open or short, engine must be cranking to set this fault code.

ECT CKT HI

Yes

2 Bp/min

90%

Open

ECT CKT LO

Yes

2 Bp/min

90%

Short

ECT Coolant Overheat

 

 

Yes

 

 

Constant

 

 

6-100 %

Engine guardian overheat condition

EST 1-8 Open

Yes

2 Bp/min

NA

Coil harness wire open

EST 1-8 Short

Yes

2 Bp/min

NA

Coil harness wire short

Fuel Injector 1-8 Open

 

 

Yes

 

 

2 Bp/min

 

 

NA

 

 

Fuel injector wire open

Fuel Injector 1-8 Short

 

 

Yes

 

 

2 Bp/min

 

 

NA

 

 

Fuel injector wire short

IAC Output

Yes

2 Bp/min

90%

Only with rpm

 

 

Knock Sensor 1

 

 

Yes

 

 

2 Bp/min

 

 

90%

Alarm sounds for 20 seconds in NEUTRAL and indefinitely in gear.

 

 

Knock Sensor 2

 

 

Yes

 

 

2 Bp/min

 

 

90%

Alarm sounds for 20 seconds in NEUTRAL and indefinitely in gear.

Low Drive Lube Strategy

 

 

Yes

 

 

Steady Bp

 

 

0-100%

 

 

Low oil in sterndrive

Low Oil Pressure Strategy

 

 

Yes

 

 

Constant

 

 

0-100%

 

 

Low oil pressure strategy

MAP Sensor 1 Input High

 

 

No

 

 

2 Bp/min

 

 

90%

Short, no visual on SC1000

MAP Sensor 1 Input Low

 

 

No

 

 

2 Bp/min

 

 

90%

Open, no visual on SC1000

 

 

MAT Sensor

 

 

Yes

 

 

2 Bp/min

 

 

90%

Open or short in MAT circuit

 

 

NOTE: If any 5v sensor becomes shorted to ground the engine will not start. If the engine is operating when the short occurs the engine may stop operating and will not start.

 

 

 

 

 

Fault

 

 

SC1000

Audio Alarm

Available Power

 

 

Description

Oil PSI CKT Hi

Yes

2 Bp/min

90%

Short, defaults to 51.7 psi

Oil PSI CKT Lo

Yes

2 Bp/min

90%

Open, zero oil pressure

Overspeed

Yes

Constant

RPM Limit

Engine over rpm limit

 

 

Port EMCT CKT Hi

 

 

Yes

 

 

2 Bp/min

 

 

90%

Open, defaults to 32 degrees F (0 degree C)

 

 

Port EMCT CKT Lo

 

 

Yes

 

 

2 Bp/min

 

 

90%

Short, defaults to 32 degrees F (0 degree C)

 

 

Port EMCT CKT

Overheat

 

 

Yes

 

 

Constant

 

 

6-100%

Overheat condition, 212 degrees F (100 degrees C) limit

 

 

Sea Pump PSI Lo

 

 

Yes

 

 

Constant

 

 

6-100%

Low water pressure strategy, defaults to

43.4 psi

Sea Pump CKT Hi

Yes

2 Bp/min

90%

Open

Sea Pump CKT Lo

Yes

2 Bp/min

90%

Short

 

 

STB EMCT CKT Hi

 

 

Yes

 

 

2 Bp/min

 

 

90%

Open, defaults to 32 degrees F (0 degrees C)

 

 

STB EMCT CKT Lo

 

 

Yes

 

 

2 Bp/min

 

 

90%

Short, defaults to 32 degrees F (0 degrees C)

 

 

STB EMCT CKT

Overheat

 

 

Yes

 

 

Constant

 

 

6-100%

Overheat condition, 212 degrees (100 degrees C) limit

Steer CKT Hi

Yes

No

No

Open and short

 

 

TPS1 CKT Hi

 

 

Yes

 

 

2 Bp/min

 

 

90%

Short, signal to 5v+, engine will not start. Refer to data monitor screen.

TPS1 CKT Lo

Yes

2 Bp/min

90%

Open

TPS 1 Range Hi

Yes

2 Bp/min

90%

Above 4.8v, 994 counts

TPS 1 Range Lo

Yes

2 Bp/min

90%

Below 0.5v, 35 counts

 

 

Trim CKT Hi

 

 

Yes

 

 

No

 

 

No

Short, high range, visual warning on SC1000 only.

 

 

Trim CKT Lo

 

 

Yes

 

 

No

 

 

No

Open, low range, visual warning on SC1000 only.

5 VDC PWR Low

Yes

2 Bp/min

varies

Short any 5v+ to ground

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, WaterDR said:

Also, the alarm has stopped.  Will a scan tool tell me what is was, or just read active alarms?

There is a certain amount of information stored in the ECM histogram, and it varies depending on what model ECM your particular power plant utilized. The newer, the better, just be sure to also order the RINDA patch cable for your particular ECM. If you get good with the thing, you will be the hit of your boating group. Info per link below. The tool is marine specific, and is not cheap but will also read Volvo codes. The first time you need it the thing pays for itself. Other good information is accessible from the hand held also such as raw water pump pressure which is a real time indication of pump health.  My guess now is that you may have a sender beginning to fail, but until it does, it will be hard to find. As you can see there are quite a few "two beep" possibilities but the good news is, none of them will leave you stranded in most cases.     W

 

http://www.rinda.com/marine/mtspec.htm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you scanned the ECM for error codes before or after the break down?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, WaterDR said:

Took it out tonight....the two beeps starred again and then it wouldn’t run.  We barely made it to a marina.  Broke down.  

But you did make it back. Describe exactly what happened and we may be able to narrow it down. If it would not start and idle but seemed to run above idle and pulled hard only to stall again when returning to an idle state, the the IAC valve likely failed, which is both somewhat common and an easy fix. Give us a blow by blow report of the breakdown.  Many 2 beep alarms limit power per the table I posted so that you can limp home or at the very least get out of the traffic lane. Some of these will limit engine output by as much as 90%. Describe in detail what happened exactly.     W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok....here is what happened.

While at dock, started motor and let it warm up.  Ran fine for about a minute or two.  Then...steady beep and shut down all of a sudden.  I started it back up.  Ran fine.  No alarms.  All gauges and all levels good.

took her out....

Ideled fine.  Then opened her up.  Ran fine and smooth for a few minutes.  Then got the two beeps.  

I shut down to check all levels again.  No issues found.

Then started up, one beep and shut down again.

From that point I couldn’t keep her running.  If I tried to add throttle she would catch and run, but then would drop RPMs and sputter.  Got progressively worse.  

We would sit and wait.  Then repeat again and again so we could at least make sure we were driving in the right direction.

Then eventually it idled again.  And I was able at idle speed to pull into a gas dock.  When it was idling again I was afraid to give it any power.

my fear is that it’s not something simple of course.  Been down the path before with other things.  Code shows a bad this or that....replace it....runs good and then bam...same problem again.

Marinas around here are awfully backed up.  Really bad time to have boat problems.  My guy is three weeks out before he can even read a code.  Can ya believe that?  Now I am sitting in a transient slip (which I have to pay for) at a different marina .  Good lord.

i am going to run out there in about an hour and try and talk to someone.

I may try to hunt down an IAC and replace.  But I don’t want to touch anything until I have codes.  Those things can get dirty and blocked up too.  I have removed them from cars before.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It idles fine so I would forget the IAC. When they fail, they mimic a vacuum leak at idle, but will run fine if you can get them going. This is the first time you mentioned a steady beep, which is seen by the ECM as a critical alarm. If it's truly a constant beep then it's seeing low lube oil level. If the buzzer is constant, not beeping then the ECM is seeing either a low raw water pressure, low oil pressure, engine coolant overheat, or exhaust over heat condition. Low sea water pressure or an actual overheat condition are the only things that will limit engine performance from 0 to 100 percent. Remember that exhaust manifold temperature overheat will not show up as engine coolant overheating on the helm display, but you can easily determine that condition by placing you hand on the exhaust riser elbow. If one is significantly hotter than the other then you have a cooling water flow restriction. The two beeps per minute is another issue as that is the ECM seeing a sensor that is out of it's normal range to the point where it's showing an unbelievable, impossible value. I never recommend throwing parts at a problem, but if it were me and I was desperate, I'd but the tool. That said, if you wish to take a shot in the dark, forget the IAC, do the hand test on the manifold riser elbows, and if they feel ok and you think your raw water impeller is in good condition, then replace the raw water pressure sensor. You can get an indication of how healthy the raw water pump is by removing the belt and rotating the pump pulley by hand in the same direction as engine rotation. You should feel slight, consistent resistance through 360 degrees of rotation. If it feels notch y, or there seems to be a free spot where resistance disappears, then the pump needs to be serviced.

It's unfortunate your dealer is so backed up. It's frustrating but the solution is systematic testing, eliminating possibilities as you go. You now have a new condition, but need to tell us if the constant alarm was a steady beep, or continuous buzz. Seems silly, but per the table I posted it makes a difference. Also, it idles even during alarm events so the IAC is likely fine. We assume you are looking carefully at engine temp, battery voltage, and oil pressure during the alarm event. Even the wrong weight oil can wreak havoc at higher RPM's. Hang in there and we should be able to walk you through it. If you get to the boat and get stuck, send me a pm with a cell phone number and I'll give you a call. W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, WaterDR said:

With mechanic this morning now....which is good.  Appears to be fuel pump related so far.

Never have I seen a fuel pump set an error code. Injector yes, but not a fuel pump. Good luck.  W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I concur.  I had the fuel pump fail on my old boat (many years ago, Stingray not a Chap!) and there were no errors or warning or beeps.  Just would not stay running at all or eventually even start.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0