Gapple12

2006 246 SSI Battery selector switch

28 posts in this topic

So, I've been chasing a weird starter issue on my 246. The starter is sounding like the battery is almost dead when trying to start. Turns over real slow, but it starts. Now, this is with the selector switch on 1 and I keep it there all day. If I put the switch on BOTH, the motor fires right up correctly. I called a buddy on this who has a Chaparral as well and he said I should leave the switch set to both when operating the boat so both batteries get charged while underway. Put it on 1 or 2 when your just sitting listening to music and such. If I am leaving it set to one battery, only that battery is getting charged. Anyone have any info on the correct operation on this ? 

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Other folks can chime in that know more than me, but look into running an ACR  (auto charging relay) and it might solve the issues you have. I'd also make sure your starting battery provides the correct cranking amps your motor require. When i bought my boat the wrong battery was installed (too small) and it had a very difficult time turning over. 

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A single battery should crank the engine over with no issue. I think you have a battery, switch, cable or starter issue, not a switch position issue. 

I would tackle this with a volt/ohm meter. 

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Next time I have the boat home, I will meter the batteries to verify they both are charging. Both batteries are new this year. 

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You have only the 1-2-both switch and no ACR/VSR?

if you do not have one then only the battery selected on the switch will be charged.  So to charge both you should have it on “both” setting.  

It sounds like your #1 battery is bad.  How long since it has been replaced?  If you get a good start on BOTH how about on just #2?

 

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36 minutes ago, dsmacey said:

You have only the 1-2-both switch and no ACR/VSR?

if you do not have one then only the battery selected on the switch will be charged.

While this is true, on the flip side, if the setup is wired to the most idle configuration, its also the only battery that has anything drawing off of it. So if the OP cranks and runs on #1, is the only battery getting drawn from and at the same time, its seeing input from the alt while engine is running.  

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5 hours ago, Gapple12 said:

So, I've been chasing a weird starter issue on my 246. The starter is sounding like the battery is almost dead when trying to start. Turns over real slow, but it starts. Now, this is with the selector switch on 1 and I keep it there all day. If I put the switch on BOTH, the motor fires right up correctly. I called a buddy on this who has a Chaparral as well and he said I should leave the switch set to both when operating the boat so both batteries get charged while underway. Put it on 1 or 2 when your just sitting listening to music and such. If I am leaving it set to one battery, only that battery is getting charged. Anyone have any info on the correct operation on this ? 

I don't have an issue but I have been wondering how this works as our dealer told us the same thing. Start and run on BOTH, when we're on the hook, pick either 1 or 2 (he suggested one weekend using 1 and the next using 2). I can't get my head around what's happening. So starting and running on both is draining and charging both? But when we switch to 1 does that isolate it and ONLY draw from one so if we kill it, we can still use all (which is really just 2 at that point) to start and go but it'll charge 1 and 2?

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3 hours ago, dsmacey said:

You have only the 1-2-both switch and no ACR/VSR?

if you do not have one then only the battery selected on the switch will be charged.  So to charge both you should have it on “both” setting.  

It sounds like your #1 battery is bad.  How long since it has been replaced?  If you get a good start on BOTH how about on just #2?

 

How do I know if I have one ? Both batteries are brand new this year 

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Either a bad #1 battery. Or  The battery place never charged the battery up. Or they are not being recharged.

If you use # 1 battery & lots of loud music playing ?  Might cause a run down also.

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4 hours ago, Was_Wylie_Tunes said:

While this is true, on the flip side, if the setup is wired to the most idle configuration, its also the only battery that has anything drawing off of it. So if the OP cranks and runs on #1, is the only battery getting drawn from and at the same time, its seeing input from the alt while engine is running.  

Totally agree.  If you just run on #1, then there is no need to try and charge #2.

2 hours ago, Gapple12 said:

How do I know if I have one ? Both batteries are brand new this year

It is usually mounted an wired right with the switch.  Should look something like (the small black block below the switch is Blue Sea's ACR module):

IB00374390.jpg

Did that picture work?  I just copy and pasted it the picture, not a URL.

 

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9 hours ago, dsmacey said:

Totally agree.  If you just run on #1, then there is no need to try and charge #2.

It is usually mounted an wired right with the switch.  Should look something like (the small black block below the switch is Blue Sea's ACR module):

IB00374390.jpg

Did that picture work?  I just copy and pasted it the picture, not a URL.

 

Yup, it worked. I do not have anything like that. My switch wiring goes directly to the batteries. 

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The # 2 battery does need charging to prevent slow self discharge of power. If the  / any Lead Acid battery is not kept above about 13.8vdc. It will start to suffocate the pure lead of the plates. Reduced cranking power when needed.

Both batteries need to be checked for water usage & voltage available.

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If you have access to 120v power when you're not using the boat, one of the best things you can do with this battery setup is install a good quality dual battery charger/maintainer.  That'll ensure that the batteries are kept at full charge and maintained at the optimal voltage for the battery type.

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11 hours ago, Gapple12 said:

Yup, it worked. I do not have anything like that. My switch wiring goes directly to the batteries. 

Ok, so no ACR/VSR. 

You can run the engine on BOTH and charge both batteries, or if it is on 1 it just charges #1, 2 charges #2 of course.

Given your #1 battery appears to not be holding a charge, have it tested.  Also make sure you are getting a good charge off of the alternator when the engine is running.  Should be putting out around 13.2 volts at idle, 14+ when at higher RPMs when you are cruising.  Not sure of the year of your 246, but I would assume you have a SmartCraft gauge that can show voltage?

If you are getting good voltage off of the alternator, make sure all of your battery connections are clean and solid.  

I have had a battery go bad in less than a year.  It happens.  Especially if it is just a starting battery and it has been drained completely.  

 

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1 minute ago, dsmacey said:

You can run the engine on BOTH and charge both batteries, or if it is on 1 it just charges #1, 2 charges #2 of course.

And I'm assuming when it's on BOTH it's draining both too and when it's on 1 or 2 it's only drawing from 1 or 2?

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23 hours ago, watson524 said:

I don't have an issue but I have been wondering how this works as our dealer told us the same thing. Start and run on BOTH, when we're on the hook, pick either 1 or 2 (he suggested one weekend using 1 and the next using 2). I can't get my head around what's happening. So starting and running on both is draining and charging both? But when we switch to 1 does that isolate it and ONLY draw from one so if we kill it, we can still use all (which is really just 2 at that point) to start and go but it'll charge 1 and 2?

I am fairly sure a 264 with dual batteries from the factory would have a VSR installed.  Mine does, and I know others do as well.  Your panel should look like this:

Image result for sunesta 264 battery switch

If it does, then you have a VSR.  When running on #1, the system charge battery #1 until it reaches a certain voltage output, 13.7 I believe (thats what mine says, anyway) it cuts in and bridges both batteries thus allowing both batteries to be charged.

That way, it always makes sure battery #1 is fully charged before it starts to charge #2.  This is why many people (me included) say to start and run on battery #1, switch to battery #2 when anchored and not running the engine, switch back to #1 to start and run again.  Only use BOTH if neither #1 or #2 will start the engine.

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6 minutes ago, watson524 said:

And I'm assuming when it's on BOTH it's draining both too and when it's on 1 or 2 it's only drawing from 1 or 2?

That is correct.

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5 minutes ago, dsmacey said:

I am fairly sure a 264 with dual batteries from the factory would have a VSR installed.  Mine does, and I know others do as well.  Your panel should look like this:

Image result for sunesta 264 battery switch

If it does, then you have a VSR.  When running on #1, the system charge battery #1 until it reaches a certain voltage output, 13.7 I believe (thats what mine says, anyway) it cuts in and bridges both batteries thus allowing both batteries to be charged.

That way, it always makes sure battery #1 is fully charged before it starts to charge #2.  This is why many people (me included) say to start and run on battery #1, switch to battery #2 when anchored and not running the engine, switch back to #1 to start and run again.  Only use BOTH if neither #1 or #2 will start the engine.

I'll have to check out the panel when I'm over there (hopefully tomorrow). I feel like there is something like that above our switch but I think I thought it was for the halon system. So what if you are on the hook a lot (on #2) and you want to charge that up? If I go back to one to run, then it'll take longer to charge 2 I'd think (since #1 has to be satisfied first) vs if I ran on "1+2" does it then just charge both at the same time?

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1 minute ago, watson524 said:

I'll have to check out the panel when I'm over there (hopefully tomorrow). I feel like there is something like that above our switch but I think I thought it was for the halon system. So what if you are on the hook a lot (on #2) and you want to charge that up? If I go back to one to run, then it'll take longer to charge 2 I'd think (since #1 has to be satisfied first) vs if I ran on "1+2" does it then just charge both at the same time?

The BEP VSR is bi-direction IIRC, so alternator supply will combine it whether the switch is in 1, 2 or BOTH. Current draw will also open it regardless of which battery you are switched to. However, BOTH is a mechanical combine, this circumventing the VSR. 

Right now, id focus more on the root issue related to cranking on #1 and less on the VSR. It will not directly effect battery #1's ability to crank the engine. 

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1 minute ago, watson524 said:

I'll have to check out the panel when I'm over there (hopefully tomorrow). I feel like there is something like that above our switch but I think I thought it was for the halon system. So what if you are on the hook a lot (on #2) and you want to charge that up? If I go back to one to run, then it'll take longer to charge 2 I'd think (since #1 has to be satisfied first) vs if I ran on "1+2" does it then just charge both at the same time?

The theory is that #1 will never really need much of a charge at all, since it only starts the engine before it starts getting charge again.  Thus the VSR kicks in very quickly and #2 starts getting charged.

But in practice, you are correct.  Often times, I only run maybe 20 mins before I stop and anchor.  Then I switch to #2.  After many hours of radio (sometimes), chart plotter/fishfinder running (yes, I fish off my 264 a lot which makes people laugh since it is definitely not a fishing boat, but the wake board racks work great for holding fishing poles!) #2 can be fairly low.   It probably is not getting a full charge on my 20 mins back to the slip.

Add in our extreme heat that just kills batteries (it is heat, not cold, that does them in), I was sick of dealing with and worrying about battery issues.  I added a two bank charger I hook up to shore power when in the slip and no more worries :)

 

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16 minutes ago, dsmacey said:

The theory is that #1 will never really need much of a charge at all, since it only starts the engine before it starts getting charge again.  Thus the VSR kicks in very quickly and #2 starts getting charged.

But in practice, you are correct.  Often times, I only run maybe 20 mins before I stop and anchor.  Then I switch to #2.  After many hours of radio (sometimes), chart plotter/fishfinder running (yes, I fish off my 264 a lot which makes people laugh since it is definitely not a fishing boat, but the wake board racks work great for holding fishing poles!) #2 can be fairly low.   It probably is not getting a full charge on my 20 mins back to the slip.

Add in our extreme heat that just kills batteries (it is heat, not cold, that does them in), I was sick of dealing with and worrying about battery issues.  I added a two bank charger I hook up to shore power when in the slip and no more worries :)

 

Yeah there are times where we could have less than 10 minutes (not counting the no wake zone at 1/8 mile long) to get to where we're going on the hook and I could see us being there for hours so I guess if we do that, I'll have to just keep in mind to really go for a good ride next time out to give 2 a chance to charge. I need to look at the ratings on our batteries the dealer put in (I believe they're the same) and then try to figure out how long of a run we may need to charge them up. Not sure how to do that math (I guess I need to know my alternator "power" first) but I'm sure there's a formula. I wish we could have shore power but no dice here.

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On 5/16/2018 at 9:00 PM, dsmacey said:

I am fairly sure a 264 with dual batteries from the factory would have a VSR installed.  Mine does, and I know others do as well.  Your panel should look like this:

Image result for sunesta 264 battery switch

If it does, then you have a VSR.  When running on #1, the system charge battery #1 until it reaches a certain voltage output, 13.7 I believe (thats what mine says, anyway) it cuts in and bridges both batteries thus allowing both batteries to be charged.

That way, it always makes sure battery #1 is fully charged before it starts to charge #2.  This is why many people (me included) say to start and run on battery #1, switch to battery #2 when anchored and not running the engine, switch back to #1 to start and run again.  Only use BOTH if neither #1 or #2 will start the engine.

Ok I looked in our panel and it does in fact have a VSR. Looks like it started charging #2 before we even got out of the no wake zone last trip out.

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34 minutes ago, watson524 said:

Ok I looked in our panel and it does in fact have a VSR. Looks like it started charging #2 before we even got out of the no wake zone last trip out

You mean the red combine light came on? This typically indicates that neither bank is low and there is good alternator supply. A heavy load or real low bank-2 typically caused the VSR to cycle closed then open. 

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